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Thread: Rasp Road Test

  1. #16
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    What brand Mick?
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  3. #17
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    Ahha, that makes sense, I have used both these quite a bit now and I am pretty sure they are dead flat on the flat side. I have been using them on the carving and I'm pretty sure I would have picked up on that if it was a problem. In general terms they feel flat/ straight/ even/ etc. Can't wait to get the next ones, the "Curved" (10" #10) and "Very Tappered" (8" #13) in Saphire finish R/H. You looking at this FF? will pop you an email
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    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Claw Hama View Post
    You looking at this FF?
    No.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    What brand Mick?
    They are Corradi Gold. They cut beautifully and the company has been very good in communications with me. It is entirely possible the problem is with me and not the rasp so I won't draw any conclusions yet.

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    Thats like me and FF, (FF how do I order my rasps? FF use the order form on the XL spread sheet!!! Oh ok) Its me not the spread sheet (darksiders are like that, too much hi tech).
    So if you want to order some of these puppies, the order form is way way down the bottom of his spread sheet.
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    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Claw Hama View Post
    So if you want to order some of these puppies, the order form is way way down the bottom of his spread sheet.
    Yep, the order form is on the second worksheet (Tab) at the bottom of the screen.

    Liked you review Mark .
    Last edited by KevM; 17th September 2011 at 02:59 PM. Reason: add bracket to quote
    Kev

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    THanks Kev, I could have written more but I didn't want it to get too long and boring.
    Its a bit like the plane blades and getting down to the molecular structure of the edge. It probably boils down to even the scores on the blank. I noticed on the Liogier that the scores or scratches run pretty much in the direction of the teeth/grains where on the Auriou they run diagonaly across.
    Bugga that they are so small and we can't sharpen them with little water stones
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  9. #23
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    Apologies to the Spreadsheet users - there was a bug in the previous version which didn't show up until it went from Puta to Puta, which makes it the weirdest bug I've ever seen. Still don't know what it was, but have put in a fix to bypass it.

    If you're having trouble with the Spreadsheet doing weird stuff then you will be able to download the new version when Admin is able to replace it. Otherwise send me an email or PM with your email addy, and I'll send you the updated one.
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  10. #24
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    Mark, there are questions about "what would make a good rasp starter pack" and I guess that would mean either 2 or 3 rasps. I know this is pretty subjective to what the user is going to do, but if the user confesses ignorance then it's probably a pretty fair bet that they will be doing "general rasp work" (whatever that is!).

    My (completely inexperienced) thoughts on the matter are (in descending priority):
    1. 8" Ratty ~12-14 grain (or thereabouts). I always seem to reach for one of these.
    2. 10" Half-round ~9-12 grain
    3. 10-12" Cabinet Maker's ~7-9 grain
    4. 8" Square ~10-13 grain
    5. 8" Very Tapered or Modeller's ~11-14 grain
    6. Needle rasps (I regard all four as a set, and they could be slotted into 4th or 5th position on this list)
    7. Curved - probably pretty specialised use for these, but they sure look handy

    I can't think of any that I would skip the Sapphire coating on. I would rather have one less rasp than do that.

    Note that I haven't included a flat rasp, because I can't quite see the point. You get a flat of the same width with a half round. I was almost going to say that a flat is good if you want two flat grains, but I would just get two half rounds (instead of a flat and a half round. In fact (and only speaking for myself) I'm not sure I would even use the flat side of a Half-Round much.

    The other thing that I think is mandatory is a pair of 10" Half-Round Milled Files (medium and smooth, coarse if the budget allows). I haven't discussed these with Noel, but I'm sure that they would be quite excellent.

    So, Monsieur 'ama, an 'ospital pass to you..........and what would you say would be a good grain increment in the same rasp type. 3? 4? Say a Half-round #8 then go to #12 or is that little bit too big a jump?

    Cheers, FF
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Mark, there are questions about "what would make a good rasp starter pack" and I guess that would mean either 2 or 3 rasps.
    Here, I could maybe be of some help, although this just another opinion.

    A "starter pack" could be :

    - the #1 model is clearly a Cabinet Makers rasp, I would pick a 10" long with quite a coarse stitching grain, let say # 7, to have a "heavy duty" tool.

    - then to be complementary with the Cabinet, a Modelers rasp, 8", grain # 12, for precise works.

    - and I would finish with one maybe less often used than the former two but that typically does jobs that only a good rasp could do so it is quite blocking not to have one : a Rat Tail rasp, 8", #12.


    Of course, this selection set aside rifflers, which are very very often used, but for other type of works that "general woodworking".

    This is just a point of view based on my experience and discussions with many customers. This is surely not a universele assesment for all woodworkers. Just hope it can help some of you guys (and ladies ?).

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    Hi Guys
    I had a new Japanese 1500g Masakari axe arrive today so tonight before I locked up I started on a handle for it. It is basicly a builders tool but I also wanted to use it when I am carving too so I have a mid lenth handle so it can be used one or two handed. I sketched out the handle on a piece of Tasmanian Myrtle that should come up pretty cool when done. I then cut the shape out on the band saw before getting out those two rasps for another test. I made some good headway before getting hungry and heading home. The Liogier worked realy well again and I can't wait for FF and Noel to get my next order back here.

    As for the starter kits I know it depends on what you may be making but I would be going for longer rasps. I think they are like saws and from school metalwork and woodwork through my trade and everything else I have learnt, I would go for a longer stroke. As with a saw be it a hacksaw or tenon saw a long stroke is more efficent. I would not part with the 300mm/12" cabinet makers as my main general perpose rasp. I have ordered 200mm/8" very tapered as a finishing and tight spots rasp and a 250/10" curved for those unusual spots. A rat tail which I already have is also very handy. As Noel said a modelers rasp would be another great genaral perpose rasp that I may invest in too. Once I get over the other two and my new axe.
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  13. #27
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    Thanks to Claw & Noel for their answers. It just goes to show how valid two perspectives can be. One from a "what sells the most" viewpoint, and one from an experienced stroker. Hang on, isn't that Kiwi slang for something?

    Cheers, FF
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    Bit like the three McCoy brothers, one was a cork socker, one was a sock tucker and the other was the real McCoy
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    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

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    Thanks for the suggestions
    How long can the procrastination go on for before decisions have to be made?
    regards
    Nick
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    Without wood it's just ...

  16. #30
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    Errr, why do you need to wait You know you want them.
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