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17th April 2016, 11:44 PM #31
the platten on your belt sander will be a bit soft ...... even if it is flat( have you flattened it) ...... most sheppach gear is a bit light and flimsy in my experience.
far more control on a straight strip of paper on a known flat cast iron table.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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17th April 2016 11:44 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th April 2016, 01:23 AM #32Senior Member
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Do not fear guys, there's no way I'm putting a belt sander near it!
I've checked it with a straight edge and it appears to be slightly convex in both directions. Having gone through a couple of irons in it's life without ever having been show any love, I expected the sole to be well worn.
The donor plane was a UK plane with a USA blade in it Here's a couple of images of it.
$_57[1].JPG$_57[1].JPG
The body and frog has near 100% japanning, but it had been broken and brazed so I got it cheap.
It appears (as far as I can tell) to be made around the same era as my granddads (which is why I purchased it, I just looked for one with similar characteristics), the tote on it looked like it was cut from the same tree as the knob on mine, very happy with the match
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18th April 2016, 09:29 AM #33Member
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Nice work, the restoration is looking pretty sweet. Thanks for the post with the detail putting everything back together. I have a newer stanley #4 I've been cleaning to make it serviceable and it the tote (?) was also skewed quite badly, been having a hell of a time trying to get it aligned properly.
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18th April 2016, 08:33 PM #34Senior Member
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Ahh! That's better
IMG_20160418_155326.jpg
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18th April 2016, 11:04 PM #35SENIOR MEMBER
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Yes, it was a 'moment of madness' doing that. The Sheppach is fine for rough and fast aggressive sanding, nothing more than removing material fast
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28th April 2016, 10:43 PM #36SENIOR MEMBER
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Looks great kenour. finally got my old one finished today. takes a mighty fine shaving, so good to work with and I think I'll now throw that modern Chinese Irwin 'Record' in the bin. How the heck did they appropriate that name and butcher it so much???? Time to work on the 5 1/2 friend just gave me too, he he happy camper now I am!
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29th April 2016, 12:27 AM #37
don't throw the Record in the bin ..... with a bit of work, they can function quite well ..... bot as nice as a heritage plane, but passable.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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29th April 2016, 01:29 AM #38GOLD MEMBER
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Have you solved your "skipping" problem? I find that sometimes, when I have a plane that's not cutting, it can be because I have, over time, rounded the bevel. This is easily solved by hollow-grinding the bevel and sharpening.
Just thought that might help.
The plane looks great.
Cheers,
Luke
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29th April 2016, 01:34 AM #39Senior Member
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Finally got around to doing a bit more work on the sole. It's still slightly convex though!
It's better than it was, I'm using emery paper on a flat surface (checked and double checked with a straight edge).
The convex sole leaves the timber slightly concave (I suppose as expected).
When offered up to a straight edge, there's still light coming though at the toe and heel. The flat section seems to be from just behind the mouth to about an inch away from the edge of the heel.
I'm really starting to consider taking a scallop out from behind the mouth with my grinder!
I'm applying lighter pressure because if suspect if I press down hard, it will flex the sole (which will remove more material from the toe and heel, which would leave it even more convex when I release the pressure).
I'm not sure, don't want to take it past the point of no return. I'm just taking it one stroke at a time.
Good bit of news, my replacement veritas blade arrived and has been installed. Very nice
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5th May 2016, 05:27 PM #40Senior Member
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Sorry I missed this post! Good to know. I'm not sure if it was flattening the soul, or sharpening the blade properly that seemed to have fixed the issue, but it's gone. It still tends to leave the work surface concave, not sure if it's because the sole still isn't perfectly flat, or technique.
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5th May 2016, 05:37 PM #41
"surface concave"
If by that you mean that you seem to have scooped out the middle a bit more than the ends of the cut (beginning and finish), I think that before you look at the plane, you should check your technique.
It sounds to me that you have too much pressure on the front knob at the start of the cut and too much on the tote at the end of the cut. This is a good flaw as it is the opposite to the usual problem which leads to a convex surface. So before doing any more fiddling with the base, I would concentrate on being a bit more even in your pressure at the beginning and end of the cut and you will tend to get rid of the concave tendency. You may well find that this is more 'natural' and easier to keep up over time.Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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5th May 2016, 07:51 PM #42Senior Member
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11th May 2016, 09:09 PM #43Intermediate Member
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12th May 2016, 09:16 AM #44SENIOR MEMBER
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I have used molasses with fantastic success quite a bit. One part molasses to four parts water mixed together. submerge the parts for two weeks, then brush off the rust to dead clean metal guys. Was suss about it when i first heard the technique, but wouldn't bother with anything else any more.
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