Restoring Carter plough plane

**snafuspyramid** · 28th June 2012, 09:28 PM

I recently picked up a vintage Carter #45 plough plane on eBay (and in case anybody was wondering why it kept popping up again for short periods in an annoying fashion, that was me, agonising over whether to resell it).

It is very similar in design to the Stanley #50, except that it is, in general, crappier. The castings are far rougher, with random bits of sharp metal poking out here and there; the machining is generally sloppy, with the skates a good way from being parallel; and one of the fancy gadgets with which the Stanley comes equipped (namely, the “chip deflector”) has been left out altogether, with a nice suggestive dent in the casting where the post ought to belong. The paint had almost all flaked off, leaving a horrible, very rough surface behind (even on the handle); and the bare metal handle was extremely cold and unpleasant to hold.

Now, generally speaking, I don’t believe that tools should be restored in a cosmetic sense, beyond a thorough cleaning, especially when (as here) the tool is relatively rare.

However, in this case I think I can see why the plane is rare. And I’d be damned if I’d use it in its current state. Nor, for some reason, could I bring myself to abandon the ailing beast.

So, I decided to do a “restoration” (cue lightning, dogs howling etc.).
This involved removing what little paint remained. Some of it flaked off with only gentle encouragement from mineral turps, a toothbrush and a hatpin; a few patches required a single application of paint-stripper. I then attacked the poor tool with a wire brush for a while, then carefully cleaned all surfaces with turpentine again and left it out to dry.

Next, I masked all the areas I wished to keep clear of paint with paper masking tape and Blu-Tac (for the many small, irregular areas such as screw-holes). I then applied seven light coats of semi-gloss black automotive enamel, waiting around twenty minutes between coats (as it was a cold day). This was a surprisingly fiddly job, with all the small parts. If I were to do it again, I’d use a clamp or handscrew to hold the parts upright and in place – trying to keep them propped up at the correct angle with various bits of wood was frustrating, as any mistakes ruined the surface.

The next day, once the paint had cured somewhat, I decided that it looked too shiny, slick and well-groomed. I don’t like that look at all; to my eye, attempting to make an old tool look young always results in a rather unnatural, uncanny effect (think Madonna in recent years). So, while the paint was still very slightly soft, I donned gloves and started handling and using the tool; adjusting it; planning with it; and starting work on the filing that needed to be done on the skates. I was surprised and rather pleased with the result; as I hope you can see from the photos, the tool now looks slightly aged, with the paint worn thinner around those areas which are frequently handled, and a dullish matt finish.

Incidentally, the plane was originally painted blue. I used black because I had it to hand, and because it closely matches the Stanley japanning.
Next, I filed open the slots that hold the blade in position. This is because Carter’s blades are a good deal thinner than Stanley’s. Since this is quite a rare plane, there’s not a chance in hell of finding more blades for it – but I do happen to have quite a few Stanley 50 blades. I used an auger bit file to avoid filing the wrong surfaces, and was careful to check by eye every now and then to make sure that the blade was coming to sit perpendicular to the “sole” of the plane. I haven’t got this quite perfect yet, but very close.
So far so good. However, there are two other tune-ups I’d like to perform, and need your advice, oh wise ones, on how best to proceed.

First, I want to add a larger wooden face to the fence. The metal one is much too flimsy to keep the plane at a reliable angle (at least with my skills) creating an irregular groove. The problem is that the fence doesn’t have any holes in it, to which bolts or screws might be attached. I planned to simply drill holes in the metal and then attach a piece of Jarrah with brass woodscrews – is this feasible?

Second, I want to replace the nickers. There is almost zero chance of finding another of these planes in the wild, and the Stanley nickers do not fit (in fact, none of the parts are interchangeable). I’ve read that it’s possible to create nickers using old hacksaw blades. I am hoping that this would not be too difficult, since the shape of the nicker is quite simple (unlike a #78, for example, it does not have a “clover” shape, but only a single spur). Can anyone suggest a procedure for achieving this? Is it even worth the trouble – do the nickers work well anyway?

**pmcgee** · 28th June 2012, 10:00 PM

Originally Posted by snafuspyramid

I recently picked up a vintage Carter #45 plough plane on eBay (and in case anybody was wondering why it kept popping up again for short periods in an annoying fashion, that was me, agonising over whether to resell it).

It is very similar in design to the Stanley #50, except that it is, in general, crappier. The castings are far rougher, with random bits of sharp metal poking out here and there; the machining is generally sloppy, with the skates a good way from being parallel; and one of the fancy gadgets with which the Stanley comes equipped (namely, the “chip deflector”) has been left out altogether, with a nice suggestive dent in the casting where the post ought to belong. The paint had almost all flaked off, leaving a horrible, very rough surface behind (even on the handle); and the bare metal handle was extremely cold and unpleasant to hold.

I hope that wasn't the text of your ebay listing!

Paul

**Christos** · 28th June 2012, 10:13 PM

I must say that this was an interesting post on the restoration that you had undertaken.

I also think that this might have grown on you.

**ian** · 28th June 2012, 10:23 PM

Hi Eddie

if you can, use sometrhing other than Jarrah for the fence. something that is naturally oily as this will help the fence slide in use

**snafuspyramid** · 28th June 2012, 10:41 PM

Yes I'm afraid it has grown on me, now I'll never get rid of it. It reminds me of my pet greyhound - formerly an incontinent clinically depressed pound dog. Spend enough time training the damn beast not to widdle in the corner and it's impossible not to grow fond...

What sort of wood might be appropriate? I don't really have anything at my disposal other than jarrah, pine and tasmanian oak. Would Tassie oak, waxed, be adequate?

**IanW** · 29th June 2012, 09:44 AM

Originally Posted by snafuspyramid

Yes I'm afraid it has grown on me, now I'll never get rid of it. It reminds me of my pet greyhound - formerly an incontinent clinically depressed pound dog. Spend enough time training the damn beast not to widdle in the corner and it's impossible not to grow fond...

What sort of wood might be appropriate? I don't really have anything at my disposal other than jarrah, pine and tasmanian oak. Would Tassie oak, waxed, be adequate?

Eddie, while Jarrah may not be ideal, it will work ok if waxed. Some traditional woods like Rosewood are certainly a bit greasier, but I've seen Beech on plenty of old wooden rebates, etc, and it's not an oily wood, either. If there is anyone selling exotics close to you, a sliver of Lignum vitae would be ideal. Of our local lot, Tallow wood, which is easy/difficult to obtain depending on where you are, is greasy, and so is Crow's Ash.

You'll find the nicker pretty near essential when ploughing cross-grain, to prevent torn sides. Since 90% plus grooves are cut with the grain, you can decide how necessary it is to fix it. What's wrong with the current one? Quite often, all it needs is a decent sharpening (make sure the bevel is on the IN-side). I use bits of old hacksaw blades for things like cutting gauges, and it does an excellent job, so a bit off an old (decent quality) blade should be good for a new nicker if you can match the thickness. Grind or diamond-file grooves in the blade, then hold in a vise & snap off to get a rough piece of about the right size. If it needs a hole in it, drill that first. That will be your main problem - you'll need a small carbide-tipped drill and counter-sink. Shaping it is easy if you have a grinder & fine-ish diamond file. It should be high sped steel, so you don't need to worry too much if it gets a bit warm when when grinding it. Hold onto it with pliers, of course, unless you like well-trimmed fingernails & toasted pinkies....

Cheers,

**Malcolm Eaton** · 29th June 2012, 10:51 AM

Thanks!!! You have just reminded me I have one of those planes stashed away some ware in my Garage ( workshop). It is complete and with a full set of blades.
I was awarded the plane as 1st prise at the completion of my 2nd year apprenticeship at Leedervile Tech back in 1951.
The unit has hardly been used, I mainly used it for grooving drawer sides before power routers took over.
Regards
Mac

**snafuspyramid** · 29th June 2012, 01:59 PM

Malcolm, do you mean that you have a vintage Carter plough? If so, might you be able to post a pic for me?

IanW, I want to make new nickers because the plane is missing them - it came without one, and I (ahem) mislaid the other.

The blade needs to be a little over 1mm thick, ruling out hacksaw blades (the blade needs to be of a certain thickness to fit flush with the outside of the skate). However, jigsaw blades tend to be a good deal thicker - might these be a good bet? I have one marked HCS "high carbon steel", which is presumably a hardened tool steel similar to O1. I'm sure that would do the job well enough, and make drilling a lot easier.

Speaking of drilling, I intend to create a depression using a larger drill size (in order to recreate the "chamfer" shape in the original, as I don't have a countersink and don't want to buy one just for this job) and then use that to guide a smaller hole. I'd be inclined to simply use a HSS bit, a light touch, and some WD40 to reduce heat (as the hole is only 1mm). What do you think?

Another complication is that I need screws to attach the nickers. On the Stanley, the body of the plane itself is tapped, whereas on the Carter the nickers themselves were tapped. I don't have the bits and pieces I'd need to recreate this arrangement, so was planning on using a very small nut and bolt, shaped with a file. Something like this: http://www.boltsnutsscrewsonline.com...h-Tensile.8245.

**IanW** · 29th June 2012, 07:19 PM

Originally Posted by snafuspyramid

..... I want to make new nickers because the plane is missing them - it came without one, and I (ahem) mislaid the other.

Ah well, you had to make one new one anyway, so making 2 is not much extra!

Originally Posted by snafuspyramid

..... The blade needs to be a little over 1mm thick, ruling out hacksaw blades (the blade needs to be of a certain thickness to fit flush with the outside of the skate). However, jigsaw blades tend to be a good deal thicker - might these be a good bet? I have one marked HCS "high carbon steel", which is presumably a hardened tool steel similar to O1. I'm sure that would do the job well enough, and make drilling a lot easier.

Speaking of drilling, I intend to create a depression using a larger drill size (in order to recreate the "chamfer" shape in the original, as I don't have a countersink and don't want to buy one just for this job) and then use that to guide a smaller hole. I'd be inclined to simply use a HSS bit, a light touch, and some WD40 to reduce heat (as the hole is only 1mm). What do you think?

The jigsaw blade should be good for the purpose. As for drilling it with a regular HSS bit, good luck! I think all you will end up with is a very dull bit in very short order. I recommend you try those Bosch builders bits if you can get one small enough. DON'T use any lubricant on it - someone who knows metallurgy might be able to explain it (I can't), but I used cutting fluid on one & totally wrecked it. Used dry, they will drill many holes in hardened steel, no probs. And using a larger drill as a countersink is a perfectly good plan, just be careful that it doesn't grab in the first hole and dig a much bigger hole than you bargained on!

Originally Posted by snafuspyramid

Another complication is that I need screws to attach the nickers. On the Stanley, the body of the plane itself is tapped, whereas on the Carter the nickers themselves were tapped. I don't have the bits and pieces I'd need to recreate this arrangement, so was planning on using a very small nut and bolt, shaped with a file.

Without being able to hold it in my hand, hard to say, but it sounds like a plan....

Cheers,

**snafuspyramid** · 1st July 2012, 10:35 PM

Nope jigsaw blades are also too thin. What else might I use? Old sawplate?

**Malcolm Eaton** · 2nd July 2012, 04:01 AM

Originally Posted by snafuspyramid

Malcolm, do you mean that you have a vintage Carter plough? If so, might you be able to post a pic for me?

IanW, I want to make new nickers because the plane is missing them - it came without one, and I (ahem) mislaid the other.

The blade needs to be a little over 1mm thick, ruling out hacksaw blades (the blade needs to be of a certain thickness to fit flush with the outside of the skate). However, jigsaw blades tend to be a good deal thicker - might these be a good bet? I have one marked HCS "high carbon steel", which is presumably a hardened tool steel similar to O1. I'm sure that would do the job well enough, and make drilling a lot easier.

Speaking of drilling, I intend to create a depression using a larger drill size (in order to recreate the "chamfer" shape in the original, as I don't have a countersink and don't want to buy one just for this job) and then use that to guide a smaller hole. I'd be inclined to simply use a HSS bit, a light touch, and some WD40 to reduce heat (as the hole is only 1mm). What do you think?

Another complication is that I need screws to attach the nickers. On the Stanley, the body of the plane itself is tapped, whereas on the Carter the nickers themselves were tapped. I don't have the bits and pieces I'd need to recreate this arrangement, so was planning on using a very small nut and bolt, shaped with a file. Something like this: Bolts Nuts Screws Online |bolts-screws-decking screws-rivets-stainless steel-socket head cap screws- 3mm diameter x 10mm long Button Head Cap Screw Black High Tensile..

Just to let you know I have dug out my Carter unit and will take some shots and post in the next day or so.
I am afraid it is a little rusty in places covered in oil and a layer of dust and will need a good clean down and a coat of Camelia oil that is unless my wife has not got her hands on the bottle for making salads.
I notice I am missing the depth gauge.
I have 2 nickers fitted to it, they are made from 1.5mm thick steel with a hardness which allow them to be filed to sharpen ie similar to saw blade steel. The retaining screw is 1/8" whitworth metal thread.
The unit is complete with the full set of cutters.
I notice on your unit that the main casting of the body has a recess in the side to take the nickers when they are not in use, this is drilled and tapped to hold them in place for storage when they are not required.
On my unit the casting has the recess in the side but it has not been tapped, they can only be held in the position when they would be normally used but turned so that they are not scribing.
In the time I have used the unit I have never ever used the nickers I guess because it has only been used for planing with the grain.
I am in possession of two wooded plowers and I have found that I have used them in preference, both of these are true antiques.
Malcolm Eaton

**pmcgee** · 2nd July 2012, 04:08 AM

I'd put the thickest saw at about 40thou = 1mm ...

so maybe scrap circular saw plate?

I think Ian has written about getting free scraps from saw sharpeners before.

Cheers,
Paul

**TobyC** · 2nd July 2012, 06:15 AM

Look around guys, there is metal all around you. As long as you have a file to shape it you're in business. You can use a hinge or a grade 8 bolt or a piece of angle iron or whatever is handy. Don't over think it, it doesn't have to be exactly the right thickness, you file it until it is. And you don't want something so hard that it will snap off the first time you hit a knot. How about a big flat washer or your least favorite screw driver?

Toby

**snafuspyramid** · 2nd July 2012, 10:34 AM

Malcolm: the recesses you see on the main casting that look like they hold the nickers aren't tapped on mine, either. On the Stanley #50, they are tapped. I guess Carter thought they'd save more money, but they do look a bit strange, completely functionless. Also, it's a shame about the missing depth stop; this part isn't interchangeable with the Stanley, either. Although I've seen accounts of people making new ones, this involved welding and a lot of b*ggering around. Although I suppose an entirely workable replacement could be made by simply attaching a suitable sized rod to a bit of hard timber.

Pmcgee: I do have a scrap circular saw blade somewhere, I'll have to see if it's thick enough.

Toby C: I suppose I'd be a bit hesitant to use something that's not a fairly hard tool steel - wouldn't it blunt too quickly on hardwoods?

I suppose it's all a bit academic, since I'll pretty much never be ploughing cross grain - and were I to do so, I'd probably use a knife, saw and router plane. Still, as is probably obvious, I enjoy restoring the tools for the sake of it...

**IanW** · 2nd July 2012, 11:00 AM

Eddie, I agree that mild steel is a bit soft for something like a nicker. It would work ok, but would dull mighty quickly on our hard woods. I get away with using nails for points on marking gauges, but when I tried using flattened nails to make the cutters for cutting gauges, they just didn't cut the mustard, so to speak. HSS would havea much more durable edge, & you are unlikely to break in that application - there just isn't enough blade exposure, but it would certainly create some major problems for you in shaping it! Old saw plate should be a lot more manageable, & better than mild steel, it's tough, but you can file & drill it. Many old steel circular saw blades would be around the thickness you need. And as Toby says, it doesn't have to be the exact size to begin with - that's part of the challenge!

Cheers,

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