Thread: Restoring Chisels Your Experiences

To stop rust, I just wipe on some Johnsons paste wax. Don't bother buffing it off, it comes off on your hands next time you use it.

When I buy vintage chisels - as users (they would have to be in new condition to be a collectable) - then it is the steel that interests me, not the handle.

Handles are easy to make and, frankly, it is great to custom build ones to suit ones own style.

Here are re-handled Bergs. The steel is good - full length - but the handles are horrible .. too short for my taste in a paring chisel. So I came up with something slimmer and longer (closer to a Japanese slick handle).



Here's a closer look ..



The same goes for mortice chisels. I have built up a nice selection quite cheaply as I would go for the un-handled ones that no one else wants.



Article here on how this is done.

When it comes to the steel restoration, the goal is a flat, unpitted back. Note that this means that the baclk is flat across the back of the bevel, and then flat from the bevel straight up the blade as measured along the edges (not up the centre, where it could be hollow - that is OK).

It is a TOTAL NO-NO to polish/buff the back of the blade as this will round it off. What then occurs is that you get about 1/3 the effective width of the chisel as a cutting area.

This is demonstrated in my article here.

The second No-No (for myself at least) is that I will not use a microbevel with a chisel (other than a mortice chisel). A microbevel is OK if all you ever plan to do is pare or chop bevel up. But I frequently use the chisels bevel down, and a microbevel will interfere with the registration. The same may be said for using a micro-backbevel (as per the Ruler Trick, which is used on plane blades).

If you wish to clean the steel of a chisel, anything other than W&D sandpaper (used with a hard holder, if freehand, or glued to a flat surface) will destroy those crisp lines. If that does not bother you, then the easiest way to clean the steel is a fine deburring wheel. I chuck mine in my drill press.

The rest is about sharpening, and that is another story.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Kev

Originally Posted by derekcohen

When I buy vintage chisels - as users (they would have to be in new condition to be a collectable) - then it is the steel that interests me, not the handle.

Handles are easy to make and, frankly, it is great to custom build ones to suit ones own style.

I agree with you sentiments Derek and all my Firmers will be getting new handles. The original handles on the bevelled ones I have I am keeping untill I have a full set. I intend to eventually rehandle these as a set of paring chisels as they are nice and fine. Until I have a more complete set I am refinishing the old handles using BLO and wax as to me it feels better than the original laquer.

Thanks Derek for the tip (link) on rehandling Oval Bolster chisels, I found it very helpful.

prozac

For those of us that don't have a lathe, where would I acquire new handles for my old Titans?

Originally Posted by Socrates

For those of us that don't have a lathe, where would I acquire new handles for my old Titans?

First of all you can buy some replacement handles (not Titan shaped, but nice anyway) from Hans Brunner or Stu Minuskin. And no need to get too hung up on the shape - Titan had a few different shaped handles - have a look at the handles on Titan chisels on eBay at the moment!! what's important is that it is comfortable and effective for you in the work you do.

But as Derek's post above shows, you can do it with a plane or drawknife and a rasp and sandpaper, dpending on what features you want on the handle (ie is it for your fingers to push (needs something for your fingers to push against) or the heel of your hand (needs somewhere to put your hand comfortably) or is it to be tapped or wanged with a mallet(needs some ferrules and bolsters)). In part, how you use them and so what the handle should be also depends on the wood you are going to use them on - I use a lot of Aussie hardwood because I bought a lot about a year ago, so I usually have to tap my chisels with a mallet!!! So all mine have bands and ferrules

Thanks Jeremy, I'll give the Derek Cohen method a try, I also found a similar article on the Taunton website.

One other question, until I read this thread I may have believed that Titan only made firmer chisels, why do they outnumber the bevel edge version so significantly on the second hand market?

Originally Posted by Socrates

Thanks Jeremy, I'll give the Derek Cohen method a try, I also found a similar article on the Taunton website.

One other question, until I read this thread I may have believed that Titan only made firmer chisels, why do they outnumber the bevel edge version so significantly on the second hand market?

Hi Socrates,
Jeremy will probably reply to your question as well, but in the meantime here is my 2c worth.
Firmer chisels have been around for a long time and, for decades, were the "traditional chisel" used by tradesmen and craftsmen alike. For most applications, a bevelled edge chisel is actually easier to use because it is lighter and its narrow edge helps it get into spaces that a firmer will not fit - so it is more versatile. These days, few people buy firmer chisels over bevelled edge. If you go into any hardware store or look online, you will struggle to find new firmer chisels - most are bevelled.
My guess is, that when Titan bevelled edge chisels come along, many people keep them for use and onsell any firmers that they have. Also, from old woodies , retirees and estate sales, the most common old chisels to come to the market are firmers.
This doesn't mean that they are less of a chisel, - far from it. They can do almost anything that a bevelled edge chisel can do, but won't get into dovetails and the like. They take just as good an edge, and you can really pound away on them when you have to.
BUT, they are heavy, and can be unwieldy, and the thicker ones are a handfull when paring, so not as popular.
Hope this helps.
Regards from Tele Point
SG

here are three vintage USA maker chisels I renewed and sold to a WoodNet member. 1/8th vintage Buck, one 1/4 beveled KeenKutter, and a Witherby firmer. Smalser and I like this blue- reetains anti-oxidant in the pores. It is easily removed for those who prefer the original steel to show. These went out very, very sharp. I guess he likes them- he paid for them and the way I do things is money back and share the shipping- if not as represented, then, of course, I stand all shipping expense.mt- rejecting photobucket used as I do for other forums. Any ideas?

Thanks SG, good advice.

Has anyone bought any chisels from an ebayer named retired clubber?

Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum

Hi Socrates,
Jeremy will probably reply to your question as well, but in the meantime here is my 2c worth.
Firmer chisels have been around for a long time and, for decades, were the "traditional chisel" used by tradesmen and craftsmen alike. For most applications, a bevelled edge chisel is actually easier to use because it is lighter and its narrow edge helps it get into spaces that a firmer will not fit - so it is more versatile. These days, few people buy firmer chisels over bevelled edge. If you go into any hardware store or look online, you will struggle to find new firmer chisels - most are bevelled.
My guess is, that when Titan bevelled edge chisels come along, many people keep them for use and onsell any firmers that they have. Also, from old woodies , retirees and estate sales, the most common old chisels to come to the market are firmers.
This doesn't mean that they are less of a chisel, - far from it. They can do almost anything that a bevelled edge chisel can do, but won't get into dovetails and the like. They take just as good an edge, and you can really pound away on them when you have to.
BUT, they are heavy, and can be unwieldy, and the thicker ones are a handfull when paring, so not as popular.
Hope this helps.
Regards from Tele Point
SG

SG and Socrates

In addition to the point SG made, I think that the general strength of the firmers made them more generally popular than the bevels. They were (and are) the kind of chisels that you can use to do anything (except fine joinery). Titan firmers were what every carpenter and every handyman had and they were a bit cheaper than bevels - and people had less free cash in the first half of the 20th century. Bevels were for joiners and cabinetmakers. So there were more firmers made and bought, and so more of them on the market.

Derek, I am interested in the tapered ferrules you have on your tools, have you included them in one of your articles? They look very effective and professional .