Restoring Stanley knobs and totes

rsser · #1 9th Feb 2010, 04:50 PM

Having lapped the backs of a couple of Hock irons to fit or refit to a couple of Stanleys, I got to looking at the resto job I'd done on the 4 and 6 for which they're destined, and not liking the results.

At a guess post-war Stanley wood was finished with spray lacquer but this is of no interest.

The 4 wood is prob beech and I finished it with Danish Oil. It looks poor - too light. Removing all the oil wld be tedious if not imposs. I'm thinking about scrubbing it with meths to remove the surface oil and then applying tinted ubeaut Hard Shellac.

The 6 wood was finer grained and darker but doesn't look like Rosewood. Considering the same treatment.

How does this sound to the plane resto experts?

(I've done the oil stripping and over-painting with Hard Shellac on several bowls and that part works; haven't tried tinting but do have ubeaut water-based dyes to hand.)

seanz · #2 10th Feb 2010, 01:07 PM

I've not much to add....I don't restore handles, just strip and oil them.....I just really like your signature.

rsser · #3 10th Feb 2010, 02:21 PM

jmk89 · #4 10th Feb 2010, 04:46 PM

Ern

In the USA Stanley seems to have tried to use rosewood most of the time for knobs and handles (at least before WWII).

My experience of Australian and UK Stanley planes (of all vintages) is that they used what they had to hand. Sometimes in England it was rosewood or something else nice and the handles and knobs were finished with lacquer. In Australia, if they didn't have knobs and handles from the US or the UK, they used local hardwood and red or black lacquered them.

Ireckon that, whatever you have, (USA, Canada, England or Australia) you can either use a reddish timber with a clear lacquer or a good hardwood with a black lacquer. Having said that I have a Stanley Australia plane with an original handle (I know that it's original because it was my Dad's plane and he never had to replace the handle) and I refurbed it by stripping off the dark red lacquer which was in bad condition and finishing the underlying timber (spotty) with shellac and Trad wax - it is the nicest feeling handle in my collection

rsser · #5 10th Feb 2010, 05:06 PM

Spotty eh? Nice.

Thanks jeremy.

Gunado · #6 10th Feb 2010, 05:33 PM

I have some very nice planes come into my poscession and some of the handles & totes nesd some attention. I am looking to get some rosewood and turn up and make new handles. What wood you finish them with.
Phill

rsser · #7 10th Feb 2010, 05:50 PM

Big q Phill!

My 2 choices, based not on restoration but on rehab for a user, wld be

1. ubeaut Hard Shellac as posted, or

2. wet sanded Danish Oil like Rustins or Organoil, brought to a higher sheen if nec with buffing in case of Organoil, & with ubeaut Traditional Wax

IanW · #8 11th Feb 2010, 12:02 PM

Ern - whipping up a new knob would be a trivial exercise for you, & making a decent handle/tote isn't very difficult, so just have at it.

About 20 years ago, I fixed a rosewood tote off an old pre-WW2 Stanley for a friend - you can see the bits I had to add to restore the shape. It was the most nicely-shaped plane tote I'd ever held, so I made a template of it, & from that point on I have always used that for replacement totes wherever possible. The cross-section of the grip is quite oval, & just seems to snuggle into my hand like it was made specially for me. Even new planes get the treatment, & if I can't reshape the handle to my taste, it gets replaced.

I also favour the old style, low, flat-topped knobs. I find they encourage a good technique. Put the flat of your left hand (or right, if you're a southpaw) on the top of the knob & don't hang onto it. Start the cut leaning on the front & as you complete the stroke, your weight automatically comes off the front & transfers to the back. This ensures you don't get a convex surface, particularly on shorter boards.

We have plenty of good woods for handles. Can't say I'd put Spotted gum in that category, myself, as I favour ones that give a nice, silky finish. Most of the hard Acacias & the Casaurinas fall in that category, & make beaut handles.

Here are two rehandled planes - an old #5 with Olive handles - a nice wood to work & interesting grain, but you're right, pale handles just don't do it on a plane, for some reason.

The old 5 1/2 has been re-wooded with She-oak. The knob is much paler than the handle because it had just been re-made when the pic was taken, but has since mellowed out to match the tote.

rsser · #9 11th Feb 2010, 01:12 PM

Thanks Ian.

Yeah, can whip up a low knob and could do with the improvement in control. Good advice. Got lots of Blackwood off-cuts that would serve.

I might have a go at making some totes too. My paws are XL to XXL (in glove size) so on the Stanleys a 3 finger grip has been a necessity, not an option.

jmk89 · #10 11th Feb 2010, 01:18 PM

Like Ian, I found a plane handle that felt comfortable and use it as my model whenever I have to replace a whole one. I have big mitts too and I found that if the handle is 30-32mm thick and rounded nicely (rather than 25mm thick and square like most standard handles) I can get a 4 finger grip (at least on a #5 and higher where there is a bit more room behind the frog.

IanW · #11 11th Feb 2010, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsser

.... My paws are XL to XXL (in glove size) so on the Stanleys a 3 finger grip has been a necessity, not an option.

Now that is a good set of grippers Ern!

Unfortunately, Mr Stanley didn't allow for future generations to grow bigger. You can't make a tote any taller 'cos it won't fit under the lateral adjustor, etc., on most models, so no joy there for you.

You'll just have to start making your own planes & build in a tote that fits, or make the kind with a rear bun instead of a handle.

rsser · #12 11th Feb 2010, 01:55 PM

Exactly.

As Jeremy says, thicken up the tote.

Happens auto'y with my diet

Fuzzie · #13 11th Feb 2010, 03:55 PM

toolbagsPLUS (Steve) has prototyped a lefties gunstock handle for one plane he is restoring. I use the term gunstock because I can't think of a better way to describe it, but you'll have to get him to put up a photo to understand.

I think he's doing it so his right handed students don't muck up his preferred planes

PopeFalcon · #14 13th Feb 2010, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IanW

I also favour the old style, low, flat-topped knobs.

Ian

I've just started to build up a collection of planes I've picked up from flea markets and the like. I've just about got them fettled and am going to make new totes and knobs to replace the beat up ones they came with.

I hadn't seen the flat topped knobs before but am willing to try one out. Any chance you have rough dimensions for them? I currently have: No.4, 5, 5.5, and 6 that I'll be replacing the knobs on.

Thanks!

rsser · #15 13th Feb 2010, 06:13 PM

Have a look at the Stanley low knobs here PF: click

And at a glance Ian wld be describing the knob in the 3rd pic above as low, as least in prop to its width.

On a Union 8 that I got from SG the low knob looks rather like the pic here ..