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  1. #1
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    Default Retrofitting hoops to bench chisels?

    There's a few sorry looking chisels that I'm returning to usable form. The handles are adequate for users but the hoops are missing (the rings on the top) and the wood there mashed around a bit.

    I don't want to remove the steel and so am wondering about whether there's a good way to true the step on the handle and dimension it for new hoops.

    As a turner of course lathe mounting occurred to me but this will be complex to set up. Alternatively, mounted on a drill press table maybe the right size hole saw might work (but getting the right size will be a matter of chance).

    Can folk recommend other ideas? How good a fit should the hoops be?
    Cheers, Ern

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    Don't know if this will work. Clamp a depth stop on a backsaw and go round the step. This should give you a new clean round to work to. After that you could carefully pare down to it.
    Alternatively set up some form of jig to both hold the handle and have some form of limiting guide/stop for a rasp or a chisel. Then you just turn the handle and trim a bit more into it's round.
    Sorry if it sounds vague,
    Jim

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    Thanks Jim.

    I think I see what you're suggesting.

    A backsaw is a tenon saw?
    Cheers, Ern

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    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post
    A backsaw is a tenon saw?
    Actually, Ern, a tenon saw is a kind of backsaw.

    A backsaw is any Western saw with a reinforcing spine (brass or steel or nowadays special plastics). Others include the doevtail saw, the sash saw and the carcase saw. RayG has a website with all sorts of stuff on this subject - www.backsaw.net.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

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    Thanks Jeremy.

    I'm a dummy regarding handsaws. Strayed out of my normal patch.
    Cheers, Ern

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    No worries, Ern.
    On a serious note, the fence idea will work, but only if the handle is a circle now. Otherwise you will just saw a perfect reflection of the current state of the surface (although you may smooth out some of the irregularities).

    I was wondering whether you could make a kind of holder to put in a 3jaw chuck. What I had in mind was a rod with a flat plate welded trasversely at one end. The bevel end of the chisel would be laid on the plate and clamped to it by a plate held to it with screws. The rod would go in the chuck and the tail would hold the handle centred. I'll do a drawing and see if I can post it.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

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    Yes, I can see that going off the handle would assume it was true.

    As for chucking, well I have self-centering 4 jaw chucks on the lathe and I can visualise what you're suggesting. That too of course assumes that the centre line of the shaft matches that of the handle, or near enough.
    Cheers, Ern

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    Hello Ern,
    I have often puzzled over this one.
    I usually end up turning a new handle.
    Here is one solution that I haven't tried myself but I can't see why it wouldn't work.
    Veritas make a range of Power tenon cutters that range in size thus from 5/8 - 2inches.
    See here:
    Veritas Tools - Dowel, Plug, and Tenon Cutters - Power Tenon Cutters
    Attached Images Attached Images
    .... some old things are lovely
    Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them.

    D.H. Lawrence
    Visit my BLOG

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    Neat idea SG.

    Would need to hand carve the shoulder square though? Maybe just a cosmetic thing.

    Throws up an idea: IF the handle is reasonably round then feed the end over a rabetting or slot cutting bit in the router table while rotating?
    Cheers, Ern

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    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post
    Neat idea SG.

    Would need to hand carve the shoulder square though? Maybe just a cosmetic thing.

    Throws up an idea: IF the handle is reasonably round then feed the end over a rabetting or slot cutting bit in the router table while rotating?
    That would work.
    Cheers
    Jim

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    Just checked.

    One handle has about half a mm of eccentricity at the end and a flat handle all round.

    The other has less but does have a bulge in the handle further down.

    Worth a go.

    I'm loathe to do new handles SG as they're Bergs (in very poor nick) and the handles may sand back to reveal the figure. Some kind of root burl?

    Of coarse sanding is another reason for getting them on the lathe
    Cheers, Ern

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    Default

    Here's a picture - pls excuse lack of artistic talent, but it might give an idea. It doesn't try to deal with what happens if the blade and the handle aren't co-axial.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

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    Thanks Jeremy.

    It's a neat idea. The blade tip could be moved sideways or packed up to improve the centering.

    Now how to do better than hit and miss centering at the tailstock end?

    A steady would do the job if its centre were the same as the lathe centre.
    Cheers, Ern

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    How about putting the steady on the ferrule (assuming the chisel is a tang and not a socket). That should give you at axis down the handle.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

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    Yes but I'm afraid it's too narrow. And at that point any error of positioning would be multiplied at the other end, and I'd have to start positioning by measuring from the bed. That's about 25 cm away. Hard to get accurate.

    If the ends weren't mashed over I could position it in the tailstock cup centre.
    Cheers, Ern

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