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Thread: Ripping Plane?

  1. #16
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    It does look a little similar. The Fidgen kerfing plane is aimed at resawing rather than ripping.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #17
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    True, but you would usually use a rip saw for reasawing anyway. So the use case for each would be very similar.

  4. #18
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    I know it may sound like splitting hairs, but the Kinney plane saw worked on the face of a thin board, with the aim of creating planks. Fridgen's saw works on the edge of wide boards cutting a shallow groove. This groove is used as a guide for a frame blade when resawing. One could just as easily replace Fridgen's saw with a plough plane and 1/16" blade (which is impractical, of course).

    The similarity (of both being a guided saw) is really superficial since their targets are quite different. When I saw the original picture of the Kinney saw, I was also reminded of the slitting blade in the Stanley #45 (mentioned earlier by Ian). I would never have thought of it being used as a marking gauge, however.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #19
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    The patent ... Sandusky Tool Company - Sandusky, OH

    and the original(?) version, also at JBT ... https://www.jimbodetools.com/product...ng-plane-42412


  6. #20
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    Peter,
    does the blade rotate like a ponce wheel, or is there some resistance so it acts more like a chisel?

    do you know?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #21
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    I'm not sure which Peter you are referring to there Ian as no Peter has posted on the thread yet, so I'll have a go. According to the patent the wheel just rotates. I noticed that that the actual plane has square shaped teeth rather than saw shaped teeth in the patent drawing. I guess this is an attempt to actually make it work.
    Judging by he rarity of the design, I'm guessing it still doesn't work.
    It's worth noting that the recent kerfing planes seem to work better with bigger gullets.
    Here is a patent to an early rebate plane, courtesy of Blackburn Tools, to show that nothing is new.
    https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=p...fs/US52478.pdf

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    .......According to the patent the wheel just rotates. I noticed that that the actual plane has square shaped teeth rather than saw shaped teeth in the patent drawing. I guess this is an attempt to actually make it work.
    Judging by he rarity of the design, I'm guessing it still doesn't work.
    Gavin, I thought it must've been meant to work like a wheel cutter - couldn't see any power cord.... I did wonder about the 'teeth' too, but p'raps they were to allow better penetration of the wheel? I guess one should never be too critical of a tool without giving it a go, but I can't think of any operation I need to do where this tool would beat any other method, and in fact seems like a clumsier way to go. As you say, it was obviously not taken up with huge enthusiasm..

    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    .......It's worth noting that the recent kerfing planes seem to work better with bigger gullets.....
    There is no way for the sawdust to escape until you reach the end of the board, so you need somewhere to store it - the longer the length you wish to kerf, the deeper the gullets need to be.

    You face a similar problem when using a saw to cut the side of a long trench, more so if it is stopped. I wrestled with this problem when making a 'trenching saw'. I wanted to keep the tooth size down, to get clean cuts, so an idea I came up with is to curve the toe end of the saw up slightly: Trenching saw 2.jpg

    It's a subtle curve in this iteration, the toe rises by about 3mm over about 40-45mm. The idea is to use the curve to make an upcurved slot so that the saw can partly exit on both forward & back strokes. Once most of the trench has been sawn, you can concentrate on those last few inches and bring them as close to depth as you can. It's a trade-off between having enough curve to encourage an upward cut, but still being able to bring the stopped end to a reasonable depth. It works for me, & I've been experimenting with slightly different amounts of curvature, but I don't use the saw every day & haven't decided what works best yet....

    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #23
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    One of these plane-saws is on my todo list (somewhere way down there). Isaac at Blackburn Tools increases the gullets with a chainsaw file, which I thought would be straight forward enough.
    Blackburn Tools - Rebate saw-plane parts
    Rebate saw-plane | Blackburn Tools

    rebate-saw-blade-01.jpg

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    I'm not sure which Peter you are referring to there Ian as no Peter has posted on the thread yet,
    my mistake, I'm confusing pmcgee with "Peter"
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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