Thread: Rusty Plane

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

I recently "won" a Stanley No4 plane on ebay. As you can see it was worth every bit of the $5.00 I paid for it. I plan to have a bit of fun doing it up and giving it to one of my brothers as a birthday present in June this year. Yep that's a plastic tote and I think I have the where with all to attempt to make another one. I will need to find a local wood turner who would turn up a new knob. I know it would be easier to just buy a new set from a supplier but this is more interesting.


...

What plane?
didn't happen - no photos!

[QUOTE=Hobo;1120896]Navil Jelly is great. It is a rust remover the US Navy developed.
Does it remove navel lint

I'm still getting my head around uploading. I've included the before & after pics just in case I didn't get the originals right.
I used vinegar & salt and left it over night. I'm not sure if the vinegar would have worked on its own.
After that some steel wool and fine wet & dry paper with the lanolin oil seemed to do the trick.
It looks like the plane has seen hard times.

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

I'm still getting my head around uploading. I've included the before & after pics just in case I didn't get the originals right.
I used vinegar & salt and left it over night. I'm not sure if the vinegar would have worked on its own.
After that some steel wool and fine wet & dry paper with the lanolin oil seemed to do the trick.
It looks like the plane has seen hard times.

2nd attempt

Originally Posted by Sebastiaan56

How do you reckon Rust Remover would go on files?

(apols for the hijack)

I use cleaning vinegar to clean and sharpen my metal working files ,clean them first with a file card and remove any stubborn pinnigs with a sharp pointed object .
Immerse the files into the cleaning vinegar and leave for a couple of days .Remove them and wash the scum off , scrub with a nylon brush and warm soapy water to get the black stuff off.
I then stand the files up and spray with a water dispersant like wd40 or CRC 5-56.
Wipe them with a cloth to remove the excess crc.

Kev.

Looking good TT.

Have you checked the sole for flatness?

Thanks Ern. I ran a square over the plate and there appears to be a slight hollow offset to the RHS of the plate. like in the thousands of an inch. It runs for the length of the plate and my guess is that it is so small that it doesn't matter.

Originally Posted by Woodlee

I use cleaning vinegar to clean and sharpen my metal working files ,clean them first with a file card and remove any stubborn pinnigs with a sharp pointed object .
Immerse the files into the cleaning vinegar and leave for a couple of days .Remove them and wash the scum off , scrub with a nylon brush and warm soapy water to get the black stuff off.
I then stand the files up and spray with a water dispersant like wd40 or CRC 5-56.
Wipe them with a cloth to remove the excess crc.

Kev.

Old navel engineer next door says to then rub chalk along the files

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

Thanks Ern. I ran a square over the plate and there appears to be a slight hollow offset to the RHS of the plate. like in the thousands of an inch. It runs for the length of the plate and my guess is that it is so small that it doesn't matter.

Is the concavity on the front or rear side of the mouth?

I'm a plane novice but wld guess it might matter if you want shavings of a thou or 2 in fine finishing. Those more expert will be able to advise better.

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

Thanks Ern. I ran a square over the plate and there appears to be a slight hollow offset to the RHS of the plate. like in the thousands of an inch. It runs for the length of the plate and my guess is that it is so small that it doesn't matter.

the minimum you need for a functional plane sole are three flat coplanar areas on the sole, one area at the toe, one at the heel and the area across the front of the mouth. the last one is important not only as a bearing point to make the plane start the run positively, but also applies pressure to the area immediately in front of the blade and help prevent breakout of the grain.

cheers
m

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Old navel engineer next door says to then rub chalk along the files

Did you ask him about the jelly?

Took me a minute to think why chalk was used, it's for the alkaline to neutralize the Ph, right?.......I was just interested in woodwork, now I'm into metalwork and chemistry....

Tuned in late ..

... no one mentioned citric acid?

Available at supermarkets. A couple of tubs in a bucket of warm water, and leave it for a week. Very safe to handle.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi,

Since we are talking rust removal.....I had to remove very heavy rust from the way tubes of an old Shopsmith I was restoring. Long, skinny uitems are difficult.

I picked up a tip that potatoes in water work. More curious than convinced, I put the tubes into a piece of stormwater pipe, filled it up with water and put 2 chopped up potatoes into the tube. I left it 2 weeks and then pulled them out expecting to hear....April Fools day. But I didn't. All that happened was that I hosed off the sludge and gave them a wipe down with a scourer and they were rust free. Incredible!

Just a warnng on this technique. The only downside is the smell of that water. Seriuosly, it made the dog run to her kennel! It is one of the worst smells I have ever encountered.

The technique really works if you can overcome the stink.

Interesting.

Anthony

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Tuned in late ..

... no one mentioned citric acid?

Available at supermarkets. A couple of tubs in a bucket of warm water, and leave it for a week. Very safe to handle.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Always thought Lemon Juice or vingigar was citric