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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Birchgrove NSW
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    66

    Default Can you save crummy clamps?

    Some years ago I bought 6 Irwin Pro-Clamp M 300x120 clamps, along with 6 no-name 500x120s. Since then all my clamps have been Besseys, which work perfectly (as do the no-names!).

    The Irwin clamps slip. I have wire brushed the ridged sides of the bars, lightly filed them with a needle file. No luck.

    I just thought, before I dump them in the rubbish, someone may know if this problem can be readily fixed.

    Thanks,
    Mark

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Victoria
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    Default

    I saved some of mine by drilling holes and using a nail through to stop the slipping.
    Cheers,
    Jim

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,315

    Default

    I am on the opinion that at some stage in the life of a clamp it will need to be replaced/retired. From your low end clamps to the high end ones. It is just a matter of when it will need to be done. Now I am not telling you to bin them but use them for something else.

    Can these clamps be used for light work?

    I purchased one Irwin clamp for a couple of dollars for the soul purpose to holding a small piece when using the drill press. It's purpose is to protect my hand and it lives next to the drill press.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
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    63
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    13,354

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jimbur View Post
    I saved some of mine by drilling holes and using a nail through to stop the slipping.
    Ditto.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,757

    Default

    What happens with those clamps is, if the main shaft has notches and they wear off, and/or the rectangular opening in the lower jaw becomes worn, then they will slip.
    You can recut the notches in the shaft with a file and square up (yes open up!) the shorter rectangular opening in the lower jaw so you can fit a strip of sheet metal into the opening and they will work for a bit longer.
    The other thing I have seen done with bigger versions of those clamps is to drill and tap the back of the rectangular opening in the lower jaw and add a short bolt. Just hand tightening the bolt is enough to help the lower jaw grip the shaft.
    This of course weakens the jaw so it only really works on bigger clamps

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
    Age
    54
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    4,524

    Default

    Or if you put a clamp .. on the shaft ... of the clamp ... behind the slipping part ...
    Paul

    ... 'cors, if that starts to slip ...

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,107

    Default

    Good Morning Mark

    The above solutions may work, but why bother? Will you ever really trust them again. They are likely to slip and stuff up something important.

    Life's too short to use crap tools.

    I have the same type of clamps and I agree they are unreliable - should have dumped them 20 yrs ago. But their Quick Grips are great.


    Fair Winds

    Graeme

    I will never buy crap tools again.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Oberon, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Good Morning Mark

    The above solutions may work, but why bother? Will you ever really trust them again. They are likely to slip and stuff up something important.
    ??? Ever used sash clamps? How often have they slipped when it's not operator error?

    Drilling & pinning(nailing?) just converts an old F-clamp into a very, very small sash clamp.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    The Shire
    Posts
    325

    Default

    Ok then, how do we replace the "foot" ie the little round spinning bit at the end opposite the handle, of a clamp (G or F) that has fallen away to oblivion?

    Cheerio,
    Virg.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
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    Default

    I was taking 'crummy clamps' in the context given in the original post. It was about slipping clamps, not broken ones or rusty ones or bent or...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Virgil View Post
    Ok then, how do we replace the "foot" ie the little round spinning bit at the end opposite the handle, of a clamp (G or F) that has fallen away to oblivion?
    Cheerio,
    Virg.
    I put great thought into it ... and use a pine scrap between ... which made a ball-shaped depression in it, instead of the job.
    Paul

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    32

    Default Pipe clamp

    How do you stop a pipe clamp from slipping?
    Is it the pipe that needs to be roughed up or something else on the clamp hardware?

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Birchgrove NSW
    Posts
    66

    Default

    Thanks everyone,

    I am always amazed at the ingenuity and resourcefulness of members of this forum.

    Graeme, I agree about bad tools but am reluctant to spend $250 on replacing these 6 clamps if a little adjustment will fix them.

    Some of the fixes are beyond me but either the bolt through the headstock, or a row of holes to take a nail (yes, an F-shaped sash clamp) should fix the problem, giving me a reliable clamp.

    Regards and thanks,
    Mark

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Sunbury, Vic
    Age
    84
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by michaellxv View Post
    How do you stop a pipe clamp from slipping?
    Is it the pipe that needs to be roughed up or something else on the clamp hardware?
    I assume you mean the type that have notches on the bit that catches onto the pipe. I have fixed a couple of these by re-filing the "teeth" that grip on the pipe. You will need to take it apart to get at the "teeth" but it is not too difficult.
    A gentle tap with a hammer also helps the "teeth" bite into the pipe.

    Hope that makes sense and is helpful
    Tom

    "It's good enough" is low aim

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    3,191

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by michaellxv View Post
    How do you stop a pipe clamp from slipping?
    Is it the pipe that needs to be roughed up or something else on the clamp hardware?
    New galvanised pipe can be a problem with slippage. The black uncoated pipe is supposed to be best but I use old battered ones.
    Cheers,
    Jim

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