Thread: Two old saws

Properly sharpened and set they should cut just fine and they are only lightly rusted should clean up ok. They both look like they sharpen. Hardpoint saws the teeth are black. Not sure what brand the second saw is but its still a budget line saw just like the stanley but would have cost slightly more. That said they are perfect to learn sharpening and setting on. Get a hardpoint saw to cut things with for now and play with those learning how to restore a saw.
Regards
John

You have the perfect pair to play with, Spyro - the top saw is a rip saw the bottom is a crosscut. Neither saw is a hugely valuable antique, so you can go your hardest on them. I don't think either has hardened teeth, but it would pay to check: run an old file across the tops of the teeth (they look like they need jointing, anyway) if it cuts & doesn't just skate along, you're in business. You'll need a suitable file. The teeth look to be about 10tpi, in which case, a 5inch slim-taper or 6 inch extra slim taper would be about right.

It's pretty clear from your pics why neither is cutting - the tips of those teeth are about as worn as I've ever seen! I'd start with a light jointing. Take a 10 inch mill file (second cut or smooth) lay it flat & level along the tops of the teeth, & make a couple of firm passes along the entire top. Check to see if there's a small flat on the top of each tooth; if they are only on some, make another pass & check again. As soon as you have at least a teeny, shiny, flat spot on the top of every tooth, you are ready to sharpen.

I'd try the ripsaw first, because you only need to file its teeth straight across. In the pic you posted, the teeth look nice & regular, so you shouldn't need a filing guide, just set the file firmly in the first gullet, then keep that grip for every tooth as you work along the saw. When teeth have been badly filed and are all irregular, the best bet is to use a guide of some sort. The simplest & easiest guide is a stick about 6mm square & 50mm long that you can jamb the file into, to hold the file at the right rake angle when the sick is held level with the tooth line.

You can sharpen all teeth on a ripsaw from the same side, but most people like to file each alternate tooth leaning away from them, then flip the saw around & repeat. Take it easy & just make two firm strokes on each tooth, unless you come to a spot where you see very wide flats from your jointing, These teeth will need an extra stroke or two to deepen their gullets. After you've got some practice under your belt, you can feel the shallow gullets as much as seeing the flats. Repeat the exercise, taking one or two strokes per tooth until all the flats have just disappeared. When you look from the side at this point, you should see nice, regular teeth, with gullets all of the same depth.

If you've had to joint the teeth heavily & do major re-forming, they will certainly need setting, but if you only needed a couple of strokes per tooth to get everything shipshape, there may be sufficient set remaining & you might be able to skip that step and proceed to sharpening, but it is probably better to set them so they are all even.

Then you do the final touch-up. That should take just one or two light strokes per tooth. Touch the tops of a few teeth (gently) with your finger - sharp teeth feel 'sticky' - if that's how they feel, then you're good to go.

Cheers,

Thank you so much

I think I have the right file, I'll give it a go tomorrow and let you know how I did

Thanks again!
SP

Spyro

If you get really keen, the top saw is an excellent candidate for a new timber handle. It may only be a cosmetic change but it makes an enormous difference to the user satisfaction. You can get templates of classic handles from TGIAG:

http://www.tgiag.com/saw-handle-scans.html

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Spyro

If you get really keen, the top saw is an excellent candidate for a new timber handle. It may only be a cosmetic change but it makes an enormous difference to the user satisfaction. You can get templates of classic handles from TGIAG:

http://www.tgiag.com/saw-handle-scans.html

Regards
Paul

Thanks for the link!

Unfortunately I had underestimated how long was my wife's "now that you have a workshop" list of projects, so it might take me a while to get to the saws, but yes I'm definitely keen

Cheers
Spyro

When I first saw (pun intended) the heading I thought it was about an old Navy ditty. Two old saws of fifty or more.

Cheers Bucky