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Thread: Two old saws
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30th March 2018, 03:37 PM #1Senior Member
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Two old saws
Hi all,
I would appreciate a little advise on these two old saws. These came with the house, I asked the agent and he said the previous owner also found them in the shed and he just left them there.
DSCF4027.JPG
I know very little about hand saws, but I do know I need a couple of good ones.
What I'm trying to determine is if these two are worth my time to try and learn how to bring them back to usable state and sharpen them (if they can even be sharpened)
They have very little markings on them, the first one is a Stanley with a plastic handle and the other one has these golden olive tree leaves stamped on handle (actually they look slightly routed in).
They don't cut at all at the moment but they are straight and they feel good in my hand, especially the bottom one.
The cutting blade on the Stanley is 660mm
DSCF4030.jpg
on the other one is 645mm:
DSCF4032.JPG
What do you think?
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30th March 2018 03:37 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th March 2018, 03:56 PM #2
Properly sharpened and set they should cut just fine and they are only lightly rusted should clean up ok. They both look like they sharpen. Hardpoint saws the teeth are black. Not sure what brand the second saw is but its still a budget line saw just like the stanley but would have cost slightly more. That said they are perfect to learn sharpening and setting on. Get a hardpoint saw to cut things with for now and play with those learning how to restore a saw.
Regards
John
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30th March 2018, 07:34 PM #3
You have the perfect pair to play with, Spyro - the top saw is a rip saw the bottom is a crosscut. Neither saw is a hugely valuable antique, so you can go your hardest on them. I don't think either has hardened teeth, but it would pay to check: run an old file across the tops of the teeth (they look like they need jointing, anyway) if it cuts & doesn't just skate along, you're in business. You'll need a suitable file. The teeth look to be about 10tpi, in which case, a 5inch slim-taper or 6 inch extra slim taper would be about right.
It's pretty clear from your pics why neither is cutting - the tips of those teeth are about as worn as I've ever seen! I'd start with a light jointing. Take a 10 inch mill file (second cut or smooth) lay it flat & level along the tops of the teeth, & make a couple of firm passes along the entire top. Check to see if there's a small flat on the top of each tooth; if they are only on some, make another pass & check again. As soon as you have at least a teeny, shiny, flat spot on the top of every tooth, you are ready to sharpen.
I'd try the ripsaw first, because you only need to file its teeth straight across. In the pic you posted, the teeth look nice & regular, so you shouldn't need a filing guide, just set the file firmly in the first gullet, then keep that grip for every tooth as you work along the saw. When teeth have been badly filed and are all irregular, the best bet is to use a guide of some sort. The simplest & easiest guide is a stick about 6mm square & 50mm long that you can jamb the file into, to hold the file at the right rake angle when the sick is held level with the tooth line.
You can sharpen all teeth on a ripsaw from the same side, but most people like to file each alternate tooth leaning away from them, then flip the saw around & repeat. Take it easy & just make two firm strokes on each tooth, unless you come to a spot where you see very wide flats from your jointing, These teeth will need an extra stroke or two to deepen their gullets. After you've got some practice under your belt, you can feel the shallow gullets as much as seeing the flats. Repeat the exercise, taking one or two strokes per tooth until all the flats have just disappeared. When you look from the side at this point, you should see nice, regular teeth, with gullets all of the same depth.
If you've had to joint the teeth heavily & do major re-forming, they will certainly need setting, but if you only needed a couple of strokes per tooth to get everything shipshape, there may be sufficient set remaining & you might be able to skip that step and proceed to sharpening, but it is probably better to set them so they are all even.
Then you do the final touch-up. That should take just one or two light strokes per tooth. Touch the tops of a few teeth (gently) with your finger - sharp teeth feel 'sticky' - if that's how they feel, then you're good to go.
Cheers,IW
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30th March 2018, 09:05 PM #4Senior Member
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Thank you so much
I think I have the right file, I'll give it a go tomorrow and let you know how I did
Thanks again!
SP
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3rd April 2018, 11:04 AM #5
Spyro
If you get really keen, the top saw is an excellent candidate for a new timber handle. It may only be a cosmetic change but it makes an enormous difference to the user satisfaction. You can get templates of classic handles from TGIAG:
http://www.tgiag.com/saw-handle-scans.html
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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3rd April 2018, 03:21 PM #6Senior Member
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3rd April 2018, 04:37 PM #7Senior Member
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When I first saw (pun intended) the heading I thought it was about an old Navy ditty. Two old saws of fifty or more.
Cheers Bucky
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