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Thread: Secret Mitred Dovetail
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8th November 2016, 03:32 PM #16
Luke
thinking a bit more about your cupboard, at 6 feet high, you almost certainly will be looking to include a crown molding to top the piece off.
This molding will hide the joinery between the sides and top, so simplifying your decisions some what.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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8th November 2016, 06:32 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Yeah, I rethought the project a bit and I was overthinking it before. I definitely planned to have a crown moulding, and the door would likely cover the front, so a bunch of fanciness on the edges is unnecessary.
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8th November 2016, 07:05 PM #18
Hear hear! I have very occasionally used dovetails on side grain, but purely for effect, & where the join was never going to be subjected to stress. Assembly is a heart-stopping procedure - those side-grain tails snap off at the slightest provocation!
I'd be using a pretty 'standard' approach if I were tackling a job like you describe. For the carcase, I'd make a box, either solid-sides (you can go bananas with your D/Ts on the corners of a solid-sided box), or frame & panel. A rebated-in back would supply the necessary anti-wracking & hold the carcase square. Ply of appropriate thickness would be the most simple & stable, but I confess to preferring a frame & panel back on anything meant to be a bit above 'ordinary'. It can still give sufficient stiffness, especially if there's a shelf or divider (or two) dovetailed into the sides. Whether or not I'd use a face-frame would depend on a few factors, such as if drawers are to be included, & how thick the sides are to support the doors &/or take hinge screws, etc....
Cheers,IW
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