Shooting Board Plane

[Scribbly Gum]

Opinions and advice needed please.
What do you knowledgable shooting boarders think of the possibility of using a Stanley 289 on a shooting board?
I know it was not designed for this and has many other uses, but it seems to me that it has the mass to be successful, and the skewed blade might be an asset.
TA you've got one - any thoughts?
Regards
SG

[jaspr]

Is that the fillester/rebate?

I'd be curious about whether anyone has got this to work. I can't see that it would. You need a plane with a flat stable side (it becomes the base when used on a shoot board) that is accurately square to the mouth/blade. Also a bit of heft is useful, as is a wide blade.

I'd never want to discourage innovation - and am always willing to learn new things - but I don't think you will get the results you need with this plane.

[Scribbly Gum]

Thanks jaspr,
Here is a picture to help.
As you can see it has a flat side and sole suitable for shooting right handed, it has a wide-ish mouth - skewed, and it has heft.
The question is Does it work?
SG

[Mirboo]

I can't see how a 289 would work on a shooting board. With the mouth and blade of the plane spanning the full width of the planes body the plane will just keep planing away your shooting board each pass. You won't be able to form the little shoulder that the body of the plane (the little bit each side of the blade) rides against.

[Scribbly Gum]

I can't see how a 289 would work on a shooting board. With the mouth and blade of the plane spanning the full width of the planes body the plane will just keep planing away your shooting board each pass. You won't be able to form the little shoulder that the body of the plane (the little bit each side of the blade) rides against.

The penny drops!
Thanks Mirboo.
Had everything going for it up till that point!
Doh!
SG

[Groggy]

No reason why you couldn't make a small fence on the side to provide the clearance needed.

[forunna]

couldnt you jsut put a narrower blade in it?
or grind the corner off the existing blade so it has a small step in the edge?

[Toolin Around]

Opinions and advice needed please.
What do you knowledgable shooting boarders think of the possibility of using a Stanley 289 on a shooting board?
I know it was not designed for this and has many other uses, but it seems to me that it has the mass to be successful, and the skewed blade might be an asset.
TA you've got one - any thoughts?
Regards
SG

Hi SG

My only thoughts are on the skewed blade. Unless the plane is very heavy or the timber clamped down, depending on the direction of the blade skew one of them is going to want to lift. I'd be thinking a 90 degree blade is more versitile.

Also you'd need to have another handle as the one is on the wrong angle and the wrong place.

Making a shooting board plane wouldn't be all that hard...

[derekcohen]

Here are a few choices ...

http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/d...oard/index.asp

Regards from Perth

Derek

[jow104]

I can't see how a 289 would work on a shooting board. With the mouth and blade of the plane spanning the full width of the planes body the plane will just keep planing away your shooting board each pass. You won't be able to form the little shoulder that the body of the plane (the little bit each side of the blade) rides against.

Also if the depth of the rebate is greater than the plane blade closed area (the mouth) which appears in the pictures provided by DCohen doesn't this also mean the the side fence area is cut away?

[jmk89]

This was for sale on eBay. I reckon it weighs at least 8kg!
Attachment 60556Attachment 60557

It appears to be a home made item. When I get it home I will have to:

1. check that it is square and flat
2. sharpen the blade
3. possibly, build a new shooting board for it!

Will report back with the results.

[dunbarhamlin]

I have used rebate and shoulder planes to shoot smaller components. Either with work and plane on the same surface (just like tweaking a tenon shoulder), or by overhanging the work and NOT using the rebate wall of the shooting board as a fence. The latter approach works admirably with a bench plane too - no eating away at the shooting board and the outcome remains the responsibility of the user - the edge will be true, but the 'mitre' angle does not depend on accuracy of the stop (be it 90*, 45* or whatever is required.)
The trouble with using a rebate plane for larger components is just the same as using a smoother to joint boards - a longer sole makes it easier to get it flat.
Cheers
Steve

[jmk89]

This was for sale on eBay. I reckon it weighs at least 8kg!
Attachment 60556Attachment 60557

It appears to be a home made item. When I get it home I will have to:

1. check that it is square and flat
2. sharpen the blade
3. possibly, build a new shooting board for it!

Will report back with the results.

Boy was that plane heavy in the backpack on the ferry home!!!

The sides are as square as my best square - a Roger Gifkins precision square, so that will do for that.

The blade is about 4 mm thick and seems to be of quite decent carbon steel - I have hollow ground it to 25 deg and hones it at the same angle on a fine diamond plate. Put in the 8 kg monster, it slices through Sydney blue gum endgrain like butter!

So this one is a keeper. The only changes I might make would be to replace the cast iron tote with a wooden one, but cutting and then grinding the current one off may be more effort than the handle would be worth.

So the next task is generally to remove the slight surface rust and then decide whether to japan the body!