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8th September 2017, 03:08 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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- Apr 2016
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- Mooroopna, Victoria, Australia
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- 34
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- 228
How square is that square in my toolbox?
Turns out not as square as I'd like.
I use the yellow combo square by Stanley for day to day marking out and noticed the other day it didn't line up with the guides on the domino joiner at work. So today I checked it against my Vesper 10" square and there's a 1 1/2mm gap at the bottom of the blade and touching at the top.
So I'm looking to replace it with a more accurate combo square.
What do people recommend? I'm not fussed about brand and prepared to spend more if necessary.
Or am I going over the top with this and should just accept this?I cut it twice and it's still to short.
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8th September 2017 03:08 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th September 2017, 03:16 PM #2Neanderthal Neophyte
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Location
- Melbourne, VIC
- Posts
- 75
Starrett will do the job, I've dropped mine more times than I can count, and maybe I've just been lucky, but according to my unnecessarily accurate Vesper A+ 10" it's still bang-on...
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8th September 2017, 03:24 PM #3Woodworking mechanic
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Location
- Sydney Upper North Shore
- Posts
- 4,470
You can use a centre punch to square them up. Centre punch on the inner 90o corner to increase the angle; centre punch on the outer to reduce the angle.
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8th September 2017, 05:17 PM #4Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
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- Melbourne
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- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
If you want a combo, it's hard to go past Starrett (it's hard to go past them for ANY layout tool).
I've never actually checked mine, I'll try to remember to put it against my Starrett No. 20 master square (tolerance of 1/60,000) on Monday
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8th September 2017, 09:19 PM #5
Umm, I think you are thinking of a different beastie, Lappa. Can't see how you could correct a combination square with a centre punch?
To correct an "off" combo, you would need to file a touch away from the bottom of the slot that the blade is pulled against when you tighten the thumbscrew. This is pretty easy to do with the edge of a very thin file. Take it easy & do the 'flip' test repeatedly until you get it spot-on. If you can't see a difference against a fine scribe-line when you flip the square, it is square enough for all practical purposes.
I think people get carried away with the perceived need for super fine tolerances for woodworking trysquares. A square that is accurate to within the resolving power of the human eye (i.e. somewhere between 0.1 & 0.2mm, depending on your age & the cleanliness of your specs ) over its blade length provides all the accuracy you can utilise. Tolerances finer than that may be wonderful to boast about, but have questionable practical value for general woodworking tasks....
My 2c,
CheersIW
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9th September 2017, 12:10 AM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
- Location
- Wonthaggi
- Posts
- 256
Moore and Wright may suit. Older is better - they made brilliant quality tech school supplies back in the day. Last week I could have provided you a set, but sadly it's gone.
I read the bit about cost not being a prime determinant, but around 100 bucks versus 300+ is a large difference.
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9th September 2017, 02:19 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2014
- Location
- Seattle, Washington, USA
- Posts
- 1,857
I wouldn't worry about brands. Just find an antique and do the trick to check it.
To clarify, the "trick" is to take a board with one straight edge, reference the square off of it, and then draw a line the length of the square's blade. After this, flip the square around so that the stock is referenced in the opposite direction, and draw a line immediately parallel to it. If the two diverge or converge, it's out. If they don't to, as Ian says, within the resolution of your eye, then the square is fine. You basically check it off of itself. Have you thought about the fact that the Vesper may be out? I'm sure it's not, but introducing that kind of uncertainty into your test for squareness is the kind of thing that could lead you down a bad path.
Good luck,
Luke
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9th September 2017, 03:15 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Location
- Mooroopna, Victoria, Australia
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 228
I have done the flip test on my Stanley and it's out a couple of mm.
I pulled out my older, cheaper Stanley, (still has a metal stock and blade) and found that to be squarer, not as noticeably out, so I've put that into my toolbox for the time being.
Thankyou all for the feedback, I'll check out the Starret and Moore & Wright.
Any tips on where to get older versions of these?
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9th September 2017, 05:23 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,696
I watched a bloke on YT do this demo and he moved the angle of the pencil about 20 degrees as he went from one end of the blade to the other.
CHRIS
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9th September 2017, 05:25 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- Location
- South Africa
- Posts
- 950
I've had (and used) a cheap combination square for many years, but have been on the lookout for an old Starrett or Moore and Wright for quite a while. Two weeks ago I found a Starrett and managed to win the auction. I collected it on Monday and am really impressed with it. You can tell it's not the same thing at all as soon as you pick it up - it has a lot more metal and feels extremely solid. The adjustments are smooth as silk, so it's easy to set it, and I'm happy I didn't get impatient and buy a new Chinese one for similar money while I was waiting.
if you manage to find an old professional quality tool in reasonable condition, at a fair price, you won't regret it at all.
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