Thread: Stanley 150 Mitre Box.

Hi All.
That is a great resto job. I was going to say, I won from a shed clear out a
Stanley 160, saw included.
Haven't seen it for awhile, but it is all wrapped up so should still be in the same condition.

Nice work. Did you also have to replace the wooden wheel at the back?

No idea what wooden wheel you are referring too.

At the base of the main arm there is a hole for a small axle that holds a wooden wheel for the saw to run on.
Here is a shot of one from eBay.s-l1600.jpg

Nice work! The Ebay pic is interesting too as I have one of these but without the sliding stop, let alone the wooden wheel. A question for you Planemaker - the screw under the angle adjustment setting bracket on mine has a pancake shaped head with no slot, knurl or anything to tighten it. Could you post a picture of the screw beneth yours so I can compare? Of course, as a Stanley it's another unique thread too.

Originally Posted by hiroller

At the base of the main arm there is a hole for a small axle that holds a wooden wheel for the saw to run on.
Here is a shot of one from eBay.s-l1600.jpg

Hiroller; I did notice that hole, but had no idea it was used to mount a wooden wheel.

cheers Stewie;

Originally Posted by markinoz

Nice work! The Ebay pic is interesting too as I have one of these too, without the sliding stop, let alone the wooden wheel. A question for you Planemaker - the screw under the angle adjustment setting bracket on mine has a pancake shaped head with no slot, knurl or anything to tighten it. Could you post a picture of the screw beneth yours so I can compare? Of course, as a Stanley it's another unique thread too.

I will try and take a close up pic tomorrow.

Stewie;

Here are some more shots from eBay. Most used ones seem to be missing the wheel and the sliding stop.
One of the front of the restored one and another of an unrestored wheel.
s-l1600-2.jpgs-l1600-3.jpg
There is also a copy of the manual on the Bad Axe site although it doesn't mention the wheel:
http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/pdf/S...0No.%20150.pdf
I've spent way too much time studying mitre boxes.

Thanks for the pics fellas. Who'd a thought it - looks like the pancake head screw on my angle adjuster is a screw for the sliding stop [which explains the flat head]. And reckon I've seen a slider just like that in one of the miscellaneous items boxes under the bench. That hole for the wheel is yet another thread/pitch entirely [making it 18 different screw threads on this particular Stanley!]

I must check mine to see what is missing.

Regards
Paul

Mine has the wheel, albeit pretty well chewed.


stanley miter box roller.JPG


And it has the stop retaining bolt and wing-nut but the stop has gone astray.

stanley miter box wing nut.JPG

Anybody know of a source for stops?

They seem to go missing but it's just an L shaped metal plate with a slot in it and a slightly wider hole so it will fit over the head of the bolt when used on the front of the box. I'm sure you could make one.

They always seem to be stored on the right but as a right gander my preference is to have a stop on the left so that you cut to the right of the waste side of the line. Each to their own.
I guess if the piece is very long then it might be easier to support the other way.

I think the wheel must be made to suit the thickness of the sacrificial timber base. As Stewie's version is quite deep a suitable wheel would have to be made. Anybody know what the thread in the hole is? Mine is missing: Not the hole, the wheel .

Regards
Paul

Intricacies of a Stanley #244 Miter Box View this email in your browser

Insights into a Stanley #244 Miter Box If you have a Stanley #244 miter box, or are looking to purchase one, there is a unique features of which you should be aware. In order to make your setup work as it should, your saw has to be equipped with a small post-like part that's attached to its spine. That small part, which is often lost or not included with the purchased of the miter box, trips the automatic catch that allows the saw to release from a locked position in order for the blade to drop onto your workpiece. If you were a member of 360Woodworking.com, you would know this from the latest presentation released on Friday. Or you can simply watch a short video to see how the mechanism works as explained by Ron Herman (WoodworkingWithRon.com). Click here to join 360Woodworking.com Click here to watch the video