Thread: Old Stanley 60 1/2??

I bought one of these in the mid 70,s and only lost/misplaced it a couple of years ago (I think I left it on a job?). It was by far the handiest plane I ever owned as a chipie. The only thing I didn't like about it was the adjustable mouth because it would not stay where set. I replaced it recently with a Stanley 220 that I found at a second hand store.
I wouldn't do anything drastic as far as fettling - it's not necessary. I would first of all remove the adjustable plate and clean out any residue etc under it. There is often a build up of sawdust and crap that could be the problem. Just remember that it would probably have been aligned when it was made and therfore look for another reason for the misalignment.

Picko

Thanks Picko,

I didn't think to look at that. I just took the adjustable plate off and it's spotless, the dealer appears to have given the plane a fairly good clean up. There did appear to be some marks on the mating surfaces indicating someone may have tried to file or grind the metal a bit.

Interestingly, when I removed the adjustment knob, I noticed the adjustment lever is stamped with the following:

PAT FEB 20 94

Is this a clue to age? If so, does this make it a ....."good old one..."?

Google "Patrick's Blood and Gore". This will take you to a super website for the history of USA Stanley planes.

Cheers, Vann.

ps If you've checked that there's no gunge under the adjustable toe-piece, another possibility is the toe piece might be from another plane (bodies get broken - toe-pieces go missing, etc) so some fettling may be in order - but be very sure before you start - there's no going back once you've taken some metal off...

Thanks, Vann, I'm going there now, I'll post what I find out.

Well I've returned from "Patrick's Blood and Gore" and wow what a website! absolute gold.

Here's some info. I've learned from the site:

This plane was made from 1890 to 1982. The adjustable mouth was introduced to this plane in 1902. Originally the mouth was adjusted and tightened/locked by a simple screw with a slotted head. The screw idea was soon refined and the brass adjusting knob was fitted, as shown in my photos. The small lever under the mouth adjusting knob was invented in the 1890's. The numbers stamped on the lever are,in fact, the patent date of Feb. 20 1894 with only the earliest levers having this date stamp.

However the various parts of this mouth adjustment set-up are not captive to the plane, and so are easily removed and dropped/lost. So there seems no guarantee that the parts are the originals.

The other clue I have is the blade depth adjusting knob which dates the plane from 1930 onward.

The lever cap has ...... " 6 C".... stamped on the underside, but unable to find any reference to that.

Anyway, looks like the plane is "old" but as for good, I'm going to have to flatten that sole for starters.

Bit of fine tuning and it'll be a goodun. Best of luck with it.

Cheers

Picko

Thanks Picko,

I know you said not to do anything too drastic, but the adjustable mouth plate is sitting about half a mil. proud of the sole. I've convinced myself it probably isn't the original after reading about their history.

Thanks for your feedback, it's great to hear from other owners.

Hi mate,

I own 3 block planes, one is the Lie-Nielsen 60 1/2, one knuckle joint block plane no. 65, and an old non-adjustable 202 (I think that is correct). I just love block planes and you will too..........providing you have the blade razor sharp. All tools work better when they are sharp, but in my experience is that is especially the case for a block plane.

The little knuckle plane cost me $15 on Ebay and in my opinion it works just as well as the Lie-Nielsen. All I did was clean it up and sharpen the blade. Which brings me to my point; I would be surprised if the adjustable plate was actually a non-original addition to the plane. Before you start grinding it back to flat please take the plate off and thooughly clean the rebated section that sits in the sole of the plane. These little guys collect a heap of saw dust from planing and it eventually collects there and stops you from seating the plate flush.

Good luck, enjoy the plane. I guarantee in 3 months you will be wondering how you ever coped without it.

Anthony

Thanks Anthony,

That No. 65 sounds like a great bargain. I've wanted to buy a block plane for ages, but I've never managed to get past the homework stage, but now I have one I'm looking forward to using it.

I understand your advice re. the build up of sawdust etc. but the area really is immaculate. The plate sits neatly in the rebate with no play or wobbles, slides back and forward very smoothly, but it just sits proud of the sole. It's OK at the toe but visibly high at the mouth. Also seems a little higher one side than the other.

Anyway, I'll keep you posted.

Hey there, checking in from the US. Notice how, in the photo of the plane body with the iron off, the area on which the iron beds is fairly broad and extends up around the screw for the lever cap? That's about the clearest indication that it's a good old plane - assuming it's in decent shape. More bedding = less chatter. On some of the later No. 60s and 60-1/2s, the bedding area is tiny, as little as 1/4" across.

The adjustable shoe on the front was flush with the sole at the factory. If it isn't now, and the mating surfaces are clean and unblemished, you may have some careful filing to do. It should be flush.

Thanks for that great info., Bill, it's good to hear.

And welcome to the forum

Yes, careful filing is right, the last thing I want is to mess up the main sole while trying to flatten the adjustable plate.

I would do as much of my filing as possible on the adjustable shoe. Easier to reach and to replace if necessary.

Well I had a go at flattening the sole today and I'm happy with how it turned out.

Stuck some 240 grit sandpaper onto a piece of plate glass with some spray-on glue and started lapping. The high spot was at the mouth and I was concerned I might grind away at the heel while trying to get the high spot removed from the mouth. I solved this potential problem by putting a piece of sandpaper upside down under the heel so the heel was sliding on the back of the sandpaper "packer" while the mouth area was worn away on the 240 grit.

The first photo shows how effectively the sliding sole plate was ground down while not affecting the sole. After this photo I flattened the whole sole on the 240 grit.(photo 2)

Originally Posted by 3 toed sloth

The first photo shows how effectively the sliding sole plate was ground down while not affecting the sole. After this photo I flattened the whole sole on the 240 grit.(photo 2)

A-hemm... I don't see any photos

Hey I love your signature - all that time my wife thinks I'm wasting, isn't wasted after all

Cheers, Vann