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  1. #1
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    Default Stanley #95 Edge Trimming Block Plane

    Stanley#95 Edge trimming block plane, 6"L, 1 1/16"W, 1 1/4lbs, 1911-1961. The Supeirior Works - Stanley Blood & Gore: Planes #90 - #100

    Shown in the following photo is one of the earlier #95 manufactured by Stanley, with the characteristic script logo on the bottom left corner, as well as the patent date of U.S.PAT.5.14.12 cast into the back of the plane. The blade itself is also stamped with the earliest logo used by Stanley within the time line outlined above.



    The plane is still in excellent user condition, bar some major loss of the original black enamel on the main body. The keeper plate looks to have fared much better over those long years of prior use. It would be considered unwise to apply a new coat of black enamel given this planes vintage, so I chose a totally different option that would seek minimal change within its overall appearance. 1st up was to dismantle the ancillary parts of the #95 from its main casting.



    All the parts were then washed down with Denatured Alcohol. The shiny bits were put into a container of Evapo-Rust for a couple of hours to detox, while the main body and keeper plate were taped up around the areas that were to be protected from an application of bare metal darkening fluid.



    Within a few minutes of application a rust oxide will form on those areas that were down to bare metal. Don't be alarmed, as that will be easily removed later on. Let the darkening solution do is work unhindered for about 5 - 10 minutes.



    All parts are then cleaned down thoroughly with Turps, before drying, then a normal soft wax applied liberally, and left over night to check if all of the darkening solution has be neutralized. In the morning, no further rust oxide had re-formed over night, so it was time to apply a buffing wax, and refit all the parts.



    Next post to follow;

    Stewie;
    Last edited by Big Shed; 1st February 2017 at 07:34 AM. Reason: Please use standard forum font

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  3. #2
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    Default

    The blade was then sharpen and honed to a flat bevel. I didn't pay too close attention to the exact angle worked, but it would been at, or just over 25 degrees. No secondary bevel was worked.



    Time to test this plane out. Note that I marked both edge grain directions on the board being worked. The board has a thickness of just over 1". The skewed blade on this plane designed to work no more than 7/8". The plane was set to take a very fine shaving (as it is designed to be used), and no issues of tear-out were evident when worked with or against the grain direction. Some of the twirled shavings coming off this plane were slightly reminiscent of what you would expect to see from a Spill Plane.







    The Stanley #95 was only offered in a Right Hand configuration. In more recent times its been re-manufactured by LV and LN, in both Left and Right hand options. To the question as to whether you need to purchase both versions, my personal opinion is no , but each to their own with the choices they make.

    http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...,48945&p=54862
    https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/...nze-edge-plane

    regards Stewie;
    Last edited by Big Shed; 1st February 2017 at 07:37 AM. Reason: Please use standard forum font

  4. #3
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    Nice work.

    I might be missing something (not unusual), but the metal darkening process seems to be rather complicated.

    I would have approached it from the opposite direction. Wrap in damp kitchen paper for a few hours and a micro layer of flash rust will form on the bare metal. Soak in phosphoric acid for an hour or two and the rust converts to a dark grey film of iron phosphate - which is moderately durable and has the advantage of preventing further rust forming.

    Do you go the long way around to avoid rebuffing the (intentionally) bare metal to brightness?

  5. #4
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    I have one as well (a Type 1 like yours, but unrestored) and can confirm that it is SO GOOD!!! Even on endgrain it's a pleasure to use. My only gripe is that the lever adjuster is a bit fiddly, but it's a set-and-forget type of plane so it's only an issue after sharpening.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    I have one as well (a Type 1 like yours, but unrestored) and can confirm that it is SO GOOD!!! Even on endgrain it's a pleasure to use. My only gripe is that the lever adjuster is a bit fiddly, but it's a set-and-forget type of plane so it's only an issue after sharpening.
    Hi Elanjacobs; would appreciate if you could post a photo of your early #95 on this thread. The depth adjustment lever arm can be preset to make it more user friendly on these earlier versions.

    regards Stewie;

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by planemaker View Post
    The Stanley #95 was only offered in a Right Hand configuration. In more recent times its been re-manufactured by LV and LN, in both Left and Right hand options. To the question as to whether you need to purchase both versions, my personal opinion is no , but each to their own with the choices they make.

    http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...,48945&p=54862
    https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/...nze-edge-plane
    for what it's worth, I have both LH and RH versions of this plane.
    Both are equally useful.
    The plane excels when used freehand to adjust an edge.

    The Left and Right handedness is not whether you're right or left handed, it's about pushing or pulling the plane along an edge.
    Swapping between the RH and LH versions allows you to either push or pull the plane while using your non-dominate hand to hold the work.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #7
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  9. #8
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    elanjacobs; appreciate the photo's of your Stanley #95. I noticed the blade is stamped with the very early curved STANLEY RULE & LEVEL CO. Very nice.

    regards Stewie;

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