Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 45 of 93 FirstFirst ... 35404142434445464748495055 ... LastLast
Results 661 to 675 of 1386
  1. #661
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    1,058

    Default

    Just thinking about the paring chisels... All the chisels that were meant for such fine work had a more laid over bevel for getting into real tight places where possible - more than the 30 degrees on these chisels. Is there a reason for such a steep angle as 30 degrees.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #662
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,795

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Toolin Around View Post
    Just thinking about the paring chisels... All the chisels that were meant for such fine work had a more laid over bevel for getting into real tight places where possible - more than the 30 degrees on these chisels. Is there a reason for such a steep angle as 30 degrees.
    That's one reason why I'm cutting my own.

  4. #663
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Toolin Around View Post
    Is there a reason for such a steep angle as 30 degrees.
    I have used the same angle that blue spruce uses on their chisels. And their chisels fit into tight corners fine.

    If we used a shallower angle less 30º, than any chisel narrower then 12 mm would come to a sharp apex at the top face, and you would cut yourself, on the top edge of the chisel. Also a shallower angle would reduce the thickness of the chisel to an impossible and useless thickness.

    For example if we used a 25º acute angle for the 3 mm wide chisel, the chisel would only be 0.7 mm thick at its apex. See drawing. this chisel would snap bend under its own weight.

    Attachment 92671

  5. #664
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,795

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    If we used a shallower angle less 30º, than any chisel narrower then 12 mm would come to a sharp apex at the top face, and you would cut yourself, on the top edge of the chisel.
    This is solved by lightly radiusing the top edge

    Also a shallower angle would reduce the thickness of the chisel to an impossible and useless thickness. For example if we used a 25º acute angle for the 3 mm wide chisel, the chisel would only be 0.7 mm thick at its apex. See drawing. this chisel would snap bend under its own weight.
    It wouldn't snap bend under its own weight but I would be uncomfortable using it at 180 mm long. I have a 2 mm x 5 mm x 120 mm long parting chisel I use on my lathe and it's taken some pretty hard knocks and chattering. At 180 mm long, a 3 mm wide x 2 mm thick chisel will be OK - this permits an acute angle of about 40º. I guess it depends if you want the set looking symmetrical or not. A 3 mm wide chisel is less likely to need to be 180 mm long so probably about 100 mm would be long enough, at this length I would happy to drop the thickness to 1.5 mm.

    Cheers

  6. #665
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    In regards Vann's post regarding Stanley Tool Works cap screws. I got a reply back from Stanley this was their response.

    Unfortunately, we do not have large quantities of these available. These are offered to support our product (if a part breaks).

    In case this email does not fully answer your question, or you would like to contact us for any reason, simply reply to this email.
    Thank you,

    Stanley Tools Customer Care
    Visit us online at http://www.stanleytools.com

  7. #666
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    999

    Default

    Probably a blessing in disguise TS.. I don't know how confident I'd be of the quality coming from Stanley works.

    That said.. I'm surprised by the reply you got back.. there's a chap in aus re-selling Stanley replacement parts on ebay or oztion.. surely he isn't ordering them in small quantities.
    Or perhaps he's been rumbled and they assume you're him trying it on again.

    re the 30 degree bevel.. As far as I can see (in my own work) as long as that bevel meets the back of the chisel there's no problem. I can't foresee (again in my own work) where anything more than 30 would be advantageous.
    I'm certainly not discounting Bob and toolins worries but I tend to doubt that the general populus will find it a problem.

    Also I may be out on this because I'm not up on my steels but I don't think I'd have any qualms about tapping all but the very thinnest of the chisels with a mallet.
    The only thing that I think will kill them is using them to pry. (or perhaps flung across the shop)

    I know they are a delicate set in comparison to what most of us will be used to but I highly doubt we'll see any come apart on us.
    Best regards, Luban

  8. #667
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Mainland N.Z.
    Posts
    877

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post

    • We still have about 20 Stanley Plane Blades Left.
    I know I'm a bit late to the parade.......but it still possible to order a #8 blade and cap iron?
    2 5/8" is not an 'off the shelf' Stanley size anymore.....

    If you do a Google search for "replacement blade for number 8 stanley plane" this thread is the first on the list?
    Good job.
    We don't know how lucky we are......

  9. #668
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by seanz View Post
    I know I'm a bit late to the parade.......but it still possible to order a #8 blade and cap iron?
    I have added you to the list, Welcome aboard.

    2 5/8" is not an 'off the shelf' Stanley size anymore.....

    Quote Originally Posted by seanz View Post
    If you do a Google search for "replacement blade for number 8 stanley plane" this thread is the first on the list?
    Good job.

  10. #669
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,795

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slow6 View Post

    Also I may be out on this because I'm not up on my steels but I don't think I'd have any qualms about tapping all but the very thinnest of the chisels with a mallet.
    The only thing that I think will kill them is using them to pry. (or perhaps flung across the shop)
    Or possibly treading on them?

  11. #670
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,823

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    In regards Vann's post regarding Stanley Tool Works cap screws. I got a reply back from Stanley....
    Thanks for checking that out TS.
    I agree that CNC is probably going to be the best way to produce the cap screw cheaply.

    Cheers, Vann

    I suppose I'd better not mention that I spotted brass ferrules for chisels in a catalogue....

  12. #671
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    1,058

    Default

    Was wanting to order a set of chisels with the fancy ferrules but first in the PDF there are 2 option 3s with different prices. What's the diffrence for each?

  13. #672
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Toolin Around View Post
    Was wanting to order a set of chisels with the fancy ferrules but first in the PDF there are 2 option 3s with different prices. What's the diffrence for each?
    See this:

    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    It is rather complicated as the chisels come with different prices depending on how finished you want them.

    Members will have a choice to which level their chisels are finished to. It is up to you to decide on how much work and time you are willing to do, with the machinery and tools that you have access to. The more work you are able to do yourself the cheaper the chisels will be. The levels consist of four stages as follows:

    • Stage 01 - This is the cheapest option and will involve no milling and grinding, you will get the chisels in there raw heat treated state, i.e. very crude. This option is only suitable for people who have access to a surface grinder or linisher machine. You will need to do all the flattening and bevels yourself. This can be up to 0.3 mm across the whole surface of the chisel, while this does not sound like much we are talking about M2 HSS steel triple tempered to Rc 62 - 64, so we are talking TUFF. This option is not for ill equipped, and is only suitable for those who have access to a machine shop or are experienced metal workers. The cost of a stage 01 chisel will be $17 inc GST
    • Stage 02 - After the chisels come back from the heat treaters the top and bottom faces are given a lick so they are flat. These chisels will have no bevels at all and will in essence be firmer style chisels. If you wish to add any bevel you will need to do that yourself. The cost of a stage 02 chisel will be $28 inc GST
    • Stage 03 After the chisels come back from the heat treaters the top and bottom faces are given lick so they are flat. Then the two edge bevels will be grind for you, however you will need to add your own primary cutting bevel yourself. The cost of a stage 03 chisels will be $37.50 inc GST
    • Stage 04 - This is a fully ready to assemble chisel that will be flat top and bottom and the chisel will have both the side bevels and the primary cutting bevel ground for you. All you would need to do is sharpen and attach your handle of choice and your chisel will be ready. However this ease comes at a higher price. The cost of a stage 04 chisel will be $40.00 inc GST


    You can get brass ferrules just like these Blue spruce chisel ferrules, like these, for $2.15 each plus gst, the ferrules will be manufactured by Parish Engineering according to the attached ferrules pdf.

    A whole set consists of 8 chisels in the following sizes (3 mm, 4.5 mm, 6 mm, 9 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm, 20 mm, and 25 mm).

    So depending on what level of finish you are after a set of 8 varies between $136 for a Stage 01, $224 for Stage 02, $300 for Stage 03, and $320 for Stage 04.

  14. #673
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sale
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,328

    Default

    TS

    I would like to add to my earlier order a 5-1/2 cap iron and screw. This is the 2-1/4" model.

  15. #674
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    1,058

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    See this:

    That it then a set of stage 3 chisels if you please with fancy brass caps. FWIW the pdf spread sheet lists the stage 4 as stage 3.

  16. #675
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Toolin Around View Post
    That it then a set of stage 3 chisels if you please with fancy brass caps. FWIW the pdf spread sheet lists the stage 4 as stage 3.
    Toolin I have added you to the chisel order. I have also fixed the pdf.

    JohnC I have added an extra 2 1/4" cap iron and screw to your order.

Similar Threads

  1. History of Stanley/Bailey Bench Planes
    By silentC in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 1st December 2010, 08:27 PM
  2. Bulk Brass Order
    By thumbsucker in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.
    Replies: 149
    Last Post: 3rd November 2008, 08:58 AM
  3. Replacement Stanley blade
    By matto1 in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 13th August 2008, 09:49 PM
  4. Scraper insert for stanley bench planes
    By Woodlee in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12th May 2008, 12:26 AM
  5. Replacement Blade For Stanley No 6
    By Pat in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 27th June 2005, 10:27 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •