Thread: Stanley Chisels

I don't understand the design of this plane and maybe someone can explain it to me? Wouldn't it be best to have the adjuster at the top of the plane and provide a larger sole?

Denim
the plane in question http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/p...s/171225ad.jpg is a shoulder plane.
I'm not sure who made it, it may be one of the new Stanley's, or it might be a knock off

The issue with shoulder planes is that the sole should be square to the sides and because this plane has a two piece side the sides should all be in one plane

To see how you use a shoulder plane look here The Veritas (Lee Valley) Medium Shoulder Plane and here http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...lderPlane.html

while you're on Derek's site, have a look at the other great info he's made available

Thanks for the info Ian, although I didn't phrase my question right so sorry for wasting your time. I understand (more so now thanks to Ian ) how a shoulder plane works but I don't understand why Stanley has sacrificed part of the plane's sole for the placement of the adjuster.

Denim

Um, dunno if it's a Stanley, and HWW is not a bucket shop. Maybe they just reproduced a pic from the supplier.

What that shoulder plane does to close the mouth is move the 'frog', like a Stanley plane or Bedrock design.

Ian, thanks for those links, and thanks to Derek for the review.

I just acquired a V shoulder plane from the forum marketplace, inc instructions which just cover assembly, adjustment and maintenance. Good to have Derek's guidance on how to use it properly.

As always, the V blade is lapped but on polishing I found a distinct hollow a few mm back from the edge. No drama. Will take some use to get to it and then I might go Japanese and pein it out.

It's the new stanley sweetheart no 92

Originally Posted by rsser

.....
As always, the V blade is lapped but on polishing I found a distinct hollow a few mm back from the edge. No drama. Will take some use to get to it and then I might go Japanese and pein it out.

Ern - there should be no need to worry about it. As you say, it will be some time before you get near the edge of it, and by that time, unless it is excessively deep, the bit of lapping & polishing of the back which one normally does when rehoning should reduce it to little or nothing. If it's been properly done, you should find it recedes almost as fast as you reduce the blade length......

Cheers,

Originally Posted by rsser

... As always, the V blade is lapped but on polishing I found a distinct hollow a few mm back from the edge. No drama. Will take some use to get to it and then I might go Japanese and pein it out.

Hi Ern

Leave the hollow in - it is an advantage, just like Japanese blades.

As long at the back of the bevel is flat, then you are fine. Even if the area is .1mm wide.

As Ian writes, the hollow will disappear on its own, again as occurs with Japanese blades as you polish the back each time you hone.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Ah, thanks for the advice folks.

Glad I don't have to anticipate getting the hammer out.

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