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30th January 2017, 05:36 PM #1
Stanley No45 Router Plane Restoration Resquest for HELP!!!
LOML spotted me eyeing the Stanley No45 on the forum it became a Christmas present. It sat under the Christmas tree till the day it was taken down then on the shelf in the garage until Sunday 29th Jan because on Saturday I scored a further set of cutters for it. I needed to check how many were doubled up 6 in all.
Below is the two additional boxes of cutters.
IMG_2637.jpg
By Sunday afternoon the plane had been stripped down and parts and blades left to soak overnight in a vat of Vinegar to remove not just the rust but years of gunk built up.
This morning began the process of removing them from the brine a swish in a bucket of water a wipe to remove residue and then a scrub with a stainless steel BBQ brush and spray with WD40.
The main body has not been soaked as yet as i need to remove the Rosewood handle which is pinned with two or three brass pins. If anyone has removed one before I greatly accept any advice or instruction and warnings.
During closer inspection the main body has had a breakage of the casting, this where the locking screw for the depth adjustment screw is. No I didn't doubt the previous owner did either as so much gunk was built up around it I had no noticed it till I was striping it down.
I hope to find someone who might be able to do the repair close by. Although I know a fellow in the UK who seems to have the experience cost of mailing it would prohibit it.
Photos to come, due to the pressing need for new tires on the wheelchair 4 bike stores visited two only had one each the other none and one closed Monday means a few days slow going. I like racing slicks but no grip in the wet, dirt or on tiles.
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30th January 2017, 05:47 PM #2Senior Member
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A small point given your problem. But.
You should NEVER use steel abrasives on steel or iron. Not any form of wire brush, not even fine steel wool which is so often recommended by credible sources.
You particularly should not do so in the presence of acid, even a mild one like vinegar.
Long story short. However gentle you might be you will always end up with microscopic bits of broken steel which get stuck in scratches or in microscopic nooks and crannies in the metal structure. In those same nooks and crannies it is highly likely there will still be some dilute vinegar after the rinse.
Several things can happen from this point. None of them are good.
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30th January 2017, 05:54 PM #3
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30th January 2017, 06:24 PM #4
You are right Ian Nowra is closer I'll see if Sue's friends BiL has the gear or knows of someone even closer first.
This is the offending break area or section broken on mine.
Vintage-Antique-STANLEY-NO-45-Combination-Wood-Plane-_57ab.jpg
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31st January 2017, 02:05 AM #5
Hi Ray
Years ago I spoke to Jim about that sort of welding or brazing.
If I recall correctly, the gear to do the repair is fairly common. The key to success is the knowledge / skill in the preheating and post welding cooling.
good luckregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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31st January 2017, 08:40 AM #6
Ian there has been many a post in years gone by on the welding repair of cracks etc. I myself have so many moons ago done brassing repairs when working. I still have my container of flux, oxy kit but no bottles, some Silver Solder even and flux for it. If I could warrant the Oxy bottles for further work I'd be getting them, there is also safety factor now days.
If I recall Jim posted on repairing the up and down side, much I knew of.
I worked with a guy who was a master welder, Cast iron repair is/was an art which I thankfully spent time being his apprentice at that was using electrodes and arc me heating the area with oxy as he welded.
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31st January 2017, 09:23 AM #7
Ray, bit of a bummer to find that, but here's hoping you can have a near-invisible repair done.
I've got an old Stanley Victor 20 1/2 compass plane that has had the frog repaired by someone who must've known what they were doing. The weld is so neat, I didn't even notice it til long after I'd bought it. I remember I paid the princely sum of about $20 for it! Those were the days before there were many hand-tool enthusiasts & lots of specialty tools could be had very cheaply...
Cheers,IW
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31st January 2017, 09:44 AM #8
I have one more place to try I know of IanW Petri North Pine Lost Trades group they also do casting, I believe the main guy is very old school. Yes gone are the days you could walk into Woolworths variety store and buy the tools required to get the job done I recall my dad often checking out quality tools such as Stanley, Miller Falls, Record sigh.
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31st January 2017, 07:37 PM #9
Some before and after shots. The 2nd lot of cutters which I scored Saturday were quite rusty they came up excellent a bit of sharpening etc they'll do well. All the screws etc on the li with them.
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31st January 2017, 07:56 PM #10
At this point it will be packed away for a bit need to get back to a pressing project.
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31st January 2017, 09:21 PM #11
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5th February 2017, 04:32 PM #12
I'm a bit of a tragic and have 2 x 45's.
Those pins need to have a rose head countersink of the right size applied to them to take away the peened head. Then they should be a push out fitting.
Have fun !!!
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6th February 2017, 05:27 PM #13
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7th February 2017, 05:31 AM #14
Missing bits
Hi Ray
i attended the Bathurst swap on Sunday and bought these bits for a 45.
They are yours if you want them for what I paid $10, plus postage to you.
There is a cam rest and the 2 short arms.
Skate is pretty ordinary but the beading stop and screws are ok.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
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7th February 2017, 07:54 AM #15
If Ray doesn't want them then I sure do!
I have a similar project; bought a 45 body with the only last blade used in it, then managed to get nearly a full set of cutters. I'm missing the short arms, cam rest and beading stop so if Ray passes I'm willing to buy them from you.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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