Thread: Stanley Planes-What you got?

Where's the 5 1/4C ?

Originally Posted by spoinky

Where's the 5 1/4C ?

You won't have enough money for a #5¼C ....... very, very rare, only a limited number made.
You have a better chance of buying a #1

I am only stirring. I would really like a #164 and a #212.
Should I buy a lotto ticket...

Originally Posted by MajorPanic

You won't have enough money for a #5¼C ....... very, very rare, only a limited number made.
You have a better chance of buying a #1

There's a nice 5 1/4 C on tool exchange. A measley $600. Just what you need to complete the collection.

Interesting about the 5 1/4C. You can pick up a smooth bottom 5 1/4 on US ebay for less than $50 (I know because I got one about 2 months ago).

Must take a lot of time to cut those grooves....

Originally Posted by switt775

Interesting about the 5 1/4C. You can pick up a smooth bottom 5 1/4 on US ebay for less than $50 (I know because I got one about 2 months ago).

Must take a lot of time to cut those grooves....

Or the last in a long line of 10 pictures shows the corrugations...and it goes for a little over US$60.00.....yippeeeee

Here he is with a couple of mates, the 605 1/4 and the Four Square Household Jack...
Regards,
Peter

Definitely pays to wait for all the pictures to load...

Just been reading this thread to discover to my joy that my trusty 5 1/4 isn't so common.
I know I like it a lot.
In these pics it is beside my number 3.
Happy days.
SG

Regarding the plane restoration -
I followed Major Panic's explaination right down to using the same type of masking tape But I do have one method of my own that I'd like to share:
For the brass adjustment wheel, I put a plastic wallplug in it like this, and screwed in an expendable screw that wasn't threaded all the way to the head. I then ground the head off, and stuck the screw in the drill press, leaving myself with a handy lathe-arrangement, and then proceeded to go through the sanding grits. The best bit was after using some quite fine wet and dry, I pressed some fine steel wool against it, and in a fraction of a second, it turned shiny! Cool to watch, that's for sure
Hope that helps
Will

Alright, update time!

I have been tied down with other projects but have managed to get a little done on the plane.

So far;

• Put into an electrolysis solution and rust removed.
• Japanning stripped and the cast iron bodies cleaned to bare metal
• The first coat of a Rust-guard sealant has been applied with an air-brush on the plane and frog for even coverage and a second is going to be applied tomorrow.
• Masking of the plane body and frog has been completed and paints acquired, I have gone for a auto mechanic paint with rust protection and a clear lacquer, both may be applied with an airbrush or spray can, have not decided.
• Brass components have been prepped for cleaning and finishing.
• New blade for has been Brought of 'Burnsy', (top bloke) and has been sharpened and cleaned(had a bit of surface rust, nothing severe)

So I should have the planed lapped and ready for use by the weekend.

Also I have yet to find a tote for the Number 5, so am using one off the 4 1/2 though after talking to Mike, I might just make a nice one out of jarrah and beech or birch if I can find any. Laminated the three pieces in the order of; jarrah, birch/beech, jarrah and a matching knob would be nice in the same order. Though for now I will use the handle from the 41/2 as it fits.

Will have more tomorrow on the progress of the plane.

Thanks, Harlan.

Alright

So far so good.

• The first coats of Satin Black paint have gone on smoothly, no dramas there. Mist coats are being used so as not to overload the body with paint, it adds a smooth finish.
• Most of the brass components have been cleaned, still have to get the screws for the tote and knob done, shouldn't be to hard.
• I have done two coats of raw linseed on the tote and knob after sanding to 400 grit and applied a lacquer coat, only one as of now but more to follow. They have come up nice so far.
• Also the lever cap has been sanded up to 400 grit after getting rid of the flaking metal coating, this alone took around 2 hours to complete and is ready for buffing at school.
• A 'lapping' center for the sole of the plane has been set up in the form of a granite board with grits ranging from 120-400 ready for Saturday when the plane should be complete.

Not many photos have been take of this plane restoration as it is the first one I have done and wanted to do it right without the stress of pictures, but I will post some up on Saturday or Sunday when it should be finished.

Also should I build up the paint on the plane so as to get it free of bumps or will it add character?

Thanks Harlan

BAD NEWS!

I got the last coat of paint on this morning, and through the day it was drying in the shed. well the bloody heat has cracked the paint in most everywhere on the plane.

So I will have to restart the body, by stripping it and painting again, maybe I will switch paint and try a gloss as I like the look when the satin first goes on, nice and shiny.

Still though, what a waste of time!

Harlan.

Harlan, I recommend a good engine enamel, you have to bake it for an hour once dried but it wont crack, you can pretty much go nuts with the can and get a good even finish. I spray mine (I don't paint planes often) in full sun on a hot day because I'm lazy. Never had any dramas.
Also once its on and baked you can be pretty sure that the paint job will out live you.
Matt or satin is fine, but if you look under the tote or knob on well cared for Stanleys from 1910's the japanning is glossy. if you want to matt it up a bit you can hit it with 000 steel wool before you bake it.

The paint only needs to be baked at 120 or so, pretty safe bet that you wont destroy swimbo's oven.

a good tip if you ever have a plane that sports rough (but still there) japanning, try Auto polish on it, just follow the instructions as you would for a car. it can bring a plane back from the dead surprisingly well.