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Thread: Stewart Spiers spares
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5th July 2019, 04:04 AM #16
Hi Tommy
The handle is not the original design. I decided to have a little fun. It was my intention to trim the horn back to something approaching normal, when FWW magazine asked if they could publish pictures of it. After this, I decided to keep it as is. The wood is Tasmanian Blackwood.
This would be an original ...
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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5th July 2019, 11:07 AM #17
Posting your modified infill again was timely, Derek. I'm in the very early stages of making a new plane using some parts from the Veritas kit I reviewed for AWR a few years ago (84; p 32). I want to keep it compact, to suit the 1 5/8" blade, and am considering a short body with 'overhung' handle like you've done on your restoration. I notice on all of the planes with protruding handles like this that they always seem to have a metal reinforcement inserted through the grip from below. Did you follow this with your tote?
I've juggled & jiggled my templates and a crude mock-up of the front portion of the rear infill, & I think I will actually be able to make a 'closed' grip, but it will need a pretty deep groove to fit the adjuster, so there won't be a whole lot of wood joining the top. I can see the wisdom of adding the internal metal to the 'open' style, and am thinking of adding that to my plane, so next question, if you did put a screw in the grip, what length & gauge did you use?
Cheers,IW
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5th July 2019, 11:36 AM #18
Hi Ian
When asked about the wood for the Spier, I tend to simplify the answer and say the infill is Tasmanian Blackwood. In fullness, the handle is a specially chosen piece of Jarrah, for its hardness and, of course, its strength comes from being interlocked. There is no steel inside, just the wood. It is very strong in use. It would not survive a drop to the floor, but what wood ... uh ... would.
Looking forward to seeing your new plane.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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5th July 2019, 11:57 AM #19
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5th July 2019, 12:11 PM #20
Indeed, even a steel core probably won't save the day in that case!
I guess it does help less severe knocks, you see a goodly number of those 'free' totes still intact after 150 years or so. OTH, you see a few sad cases where it obviously didn't..
Thanks for the quick answer. If I decide to go that route, I'll just have to follow intuition as to what to use. Hopefully, whatever I do won't be put to the test, so I'll never know if it helps or not!
Cheers,IW
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5th July 2019, 12:19 PM #21Novice
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Tommy
Tool Bazaar also sells new replacement parallel irons £60 so it would be great place to take your plane and try a few irons and just see what thickness yours needs. With the chip breaker infill and wood planes use the same type so that part is easy to find, just look on eBay.
Peter
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5th July 2019, 02:16 PM #22Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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6th July 2019, 09:13 AM #23
Derek,what I'm referring to is the screw/bolt inserted through the grip/tote from below, on most, if not all of the small infills planes I've seen with the bottom of the grip protruding from the chassis (like yours). These are present on planes in very good condition with no sign of damage to the grip, so I've always assumed they are original. While not compressing the whole grip section like the retaining stud of a Bailey handle, a long-ish screw would put most of the cross-grain of the grip under some compression, or 'pre-stress' it as the engineers say. This makes it less likely to break in use & better able to survive a hard whack.
It isn't 100%, of course, as the number of cracked & broken totes attest....
Cheers,IW
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6th July 2019, 09:13 AM #24
Derek,what I'm referring to is the screw/bolt inserted through the grip/tote from below, on most, if not all of the small infills planes I've seen with the bottom of the grip protruding from the chassis (like yours). These are present on planes in very good condition with no sign of damage to the grip, so I've always assumed they are original. While not compressing the whole grip section like the retaining stud of a Bailey handle, a long-ish screw would put most of the cross-grain of the grip under some compression, or 'pre-stress' it as the engineers say. This makes it less likely to break in use & better able to survive a hard whack.
It isn't 100%, of course, as the number of cracked & broken totes attest....
Cheers,IW
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