Thread: stitching a rasp

Keeping in mind, this is only rasp 3 1/2. I'm not sure how many I'll make (at first it was only a couple), but the feel to do it comes quickly and it's hard to lose interest in the improvement phase.

Strange thing - when you stitch the lines, you can see the direction, like forward slash - so it seems intuitive that you would sort of look ahead to lay the stitching out based on that line, but you actually visually use the lines already laid out 90 degrees to see where you're going to drop the next tooth. It's a lot easier and not something I guessed at first.

In one of the french videos, I was sort of stunned how the toothers could stitch part of a round barrel and (like middle and right) and then turn the rasp and stitch the left 1/3rd of the barrel starting at the edge and then their toothing would land with the last tooth just right vs the "forward slash". Except I'm pretty sure they're visually using the "backslash" lines already established down the rasp to sight where the teeth will go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYVxowkPX8U&feature=youtu.be

I can stitch twice as fast as this without an issue, but the alignment is four times as bad. Sorry for the elbow in the way - it's kind of hard to guess where to set up the phone as either the hammer or hands are in the way - front right would've probably been a better spot.

if someone is just going to make 10 rasps or so, no special hammer is needed. Still want to make one or two specialty hammers, though.

I'm grinding the back of this barrel to make this one two sided (round on the back, then stitch it). I'll lay the flat side into a piece of pine so that the teeth will hopefully not be affected.

The fine tooth curved rasp that I made in the other thread works well, but when you're using it, you wish it was toothed on both sides so you could flip to the flat side rather than having to put it down and pick up another tool.