Thread: A Thicknessing Technique

Its certainly a user friendly method Derek.
I suppose it depends on how accurate or fussy some guys want to be in terms of getting the champfer uniform on all sides. I for one will give it a go


Shippers

Originally Posted by SHIPPERS

Its certainly a user friendly method Derek.
I suppose it depends on how accurate or fussy some guys want to be in terms of getting the champfer uniform on all sides. I for one will give it a go


Shippers

Hi Shippers

It is not important to get a uniform chamfer - just a chamfer. The chamfer is just easier to keep an eye on than a line on the other sifde of an edge.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Shippers

It is not important to get a uniform chamfer - just a chamfer. The chamfer is just easier to keep an eye on than a line on the other sifde of an edge.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Dereck.
That is a method I have always used, if I need to chew off large quantities I would most likely start of with my trusted German Jack Plane ( you may call it a Scrub Plane).
Working from the centre I would more than likely tapper it down with in 2mm from the correct thickness on both sides and then attack the centre till I achieve a uniform thickness, then follow on with a jack plane or a trying plane (No 7 Stanley) and finally finish off with a smother and hand scrape. Back in the old days when Banks had wide timber teller tops we would have to plane the tops by hand down to a uniform thickness, first of all we would travess the top with the trying plane and then finish of with the smoother with the grain and finally hand scrape.
These tops would be up to a metre wide usually made up of 2 or 3 boards tongue jointed with animal glue. After scrapping and sanding the tops would be French Polished with Shellac. Wow and behold if there was any visable hollows after polishing or other wise it was back to stripping and rescrapping.
The tops in most cases where Jarrah.
Those where the days.
Regards Mac

Another method, which I use occasionally, is to run a small rebate around the edge of the board on the tablesaw. Same principle - gives you a highly visible finishing point to work to, & less effort than planing chamfers.

Of course, that is a deviation from purity, but not too far.....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Another method, which I use occasionally, is to run a small rebate around the edge of the board on the tablesaw. Same principle - gives you a highly visible finishing point to work to, & less effort than planing chamfers.

Of course, that is a deviation from purity, but not too far.....

Cheers,

Hi Ian

A tablesaw is less effort than running a block plane around the board?!!!

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Ian

A tablesaw is less effort than running a block plane around the board?!!!

Regards from Perth

Derek

'Tis for me. Way fewer elbow-bends involved.

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Another method, which I use occasionally, is to run a small rebate around the edge of the board on the tablesaw.

So which surface do you use as your reference surface on your tablesaw (i.e. which suface lies on the table)? If I use the bottom surface as a reference, then I will still have to lean over to see if I've nearly reached the far side rebate. If I use the top surface as a reference then that will only work if the two faces of the board are already parallel.

I'm confused .

Cheers, Vann

Originally Posted by Vann

So which surface do you use as your reference surface on your tablesaw (i.e. which suface lies on the table)? If I use the bottom surface as a reference, then I will still have to lean over to see if I've nearly reached the far side rebate. If I use the top surface as a reference then that will only work if the two faces of the board are already parallel.

I'm confused .

Cheers, Vann

Hi Vann
? - All I do is run a shallow cut around the edges using the flat surface as a reference - it's really much the same as a chamfer, just quicker & easier (well, for me, it seems )

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

All I do is run a shallow cut around the edges using the flat surface as a reference - it's really much the same as a chamfer, just quicker & easier

Ahh, got it now. You turn your board up on it's edge to run the cut. Sorry, I must be a bit slow today - it's Wellington Anniversary Day so my brain and I have the day off .

Cheers, Vann.

Tried it today, and I like it. It's certainly very easy to see where to plane to. I just used my#4 to plane the chamfer, but then its only tassie oak. Of course if I hadn't got carried away while trying to get the first board flat, I wouldn't have needed to cut the others down as much.

This thread came in very handy today. I had made a mistake on a small square frame that I made. This was going to sit flush to another piece, well all I needed to do was file just a tad off one corner. This past weekend I took the file out and took too much off. Put it aside and walked away. Did not want to redo the corner.

After reading this thread I thought to myself why not try this out on the frame. Today took out my block plane and gave it a shot. Did all the way round the frame. Now it was almost flush. The rest was just a matter of sandpaper on a piece of glass.

Very good information.

Just poking my reply in here so I can find this thread again to read it later.