Thread: Someone threw these out

Lucky barsteward!

Now that is a good score.

Steve I threw them out by mistake didn't think I threw them that hard tho

Nice score.

I have some solution here just might do the trick although not guaranteed I have not used this stuff as yet its called Its a concentrated Rust remove I got from Toowoomba Rusted Solutions

Good save.

Well done Steve, nice find there, a shame to see tools in that state be good to see them back to a reasonable usable condition.

Wonder if it was part of a clean out of a deceased estate....therefore how many tools do get thrown out never to be retrieved by someone who could make use of them ...it begs the question?

Cheers

Originally Posted by John Saxton

Well done Steve, nice find there, a shame to see tools in that state be good to see them back to a reasonable usable condition.

Wonder if it was part of a clean out of a deceased estate....therefore how many tools do get thrown out never to be retrieved by someone who could make use of them ...it begs the question?

Cheers

It was some sort of a clean out but not a deceased estate.

Was only around the corner from my place. Renters I think....don't want it throw it out....

Don't be put off by red rust ... you can definitely still find good steel underneath.

Others have detailed a thorough process of turning out a shiny blade, but a year ago I made a little video on making a quick investigation into a saw ... to find out an etch or stamp ... it might give you some ideas.

Originally Posted by pmcgee

Don't be put off by red rust ... you can definitely still find good steel underneath.

Others have detailed a thorough process of turning out a shiny blade, but a year ago I made a little video on making a quick investigation into a saw ... to find out an etch or stamp ... it might give you some ideas.

Thanks Paul.

What was the lubricant you used with the wet and dry.

Also has close did you get to the saw teeth.

I like WD40 ... bought in the 4L size and then into the hand-squirter.

But, previously discussed on here somewhere, others like water, kero, metho ...

I did try water once as a continuous stream, which is nice for not clouding up the surface but ... it's water.

Personally I don't really avoid the teeth ... other than via the fact that the etch isn't usually on the toothline.

I forgot to say, of course you could remove the handle first.
(The older mine are, the less I usually want to disturb the handle.)

Cheers,
Paul

Plenty of info here: http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/...tore-index.asp
Also a nice WIP of a saw restore here: http://www.tgiag.com/how-to-articles.html

Well thanks to Paul.

Used a citrius bath first. (Very weak one) The onto the wet and dry. Being very careful to skirt around the etch.

Anyway got abot 50-60% of the etch visible.

Says "Trade SPEARIOR Mark" and underneath that 46 Sheffield and then under that I can't make it out.



Now got to find the needle files and give it a sharpen.

Thanks to all the replied and the research was fun.

Here's what I use.

http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.co...st_removal.htm

Try it on scrap first if you're tentative. Strip the item down bare first. I do mine on a bench just outside the shed door. Works best when there are fewer items in the tub, close to the sacrifical anode. I use this method on lots of steel screws, nuts & fittings, wiring them together to allow current flow. I also use two chargers (yes 2). The only word of caution I have is keep the item being treated and the anode separated at all times, but still close.

You will see reaction as soon as power is turned on but heavily rusted items will need to be left in for some hours, fully immersed, rotating occasionally. I then remove the items and scrub them with a stiff nylon brush under water. All chrome/nickel plating and paint remains as is, untouched.

Simple, effective, cheap. Don't be put off by the ne'ersayers, don't tell anyone you do it, just do it. Thank me later.

Dakotax3

The electrolysis method can be a very controversial issue. This is a thread that dealt with it a while back (Beware, it is long and at times tedious. It does seem to be easier to wade through with alcohol):

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/handsaw-restoration-181996

My conclusions are, and these are slightly reluctantly acknowledged:

1. The process imparts a "greyness" to the final finish that cannot be removed (ref: pmcgee). If you are chasing a fine finish, you may be disappointed.
2. There may be an adverse effect on the metallurgy of the saw plate.
3. It is essential to lightly "bake" any steel treated by electrolysis immediately after treatment. This is to counter the effects of rusting and more importantly hydrogen embrittelment.
4. There is no adverse effect on the etch
5. The steel is more prone to subsequent rusting if any rust prevention measures are not taken.
6. Electrolysis is ideal for heavier steel items, such as hand planes or vices etc.

I have gone away from electrolysis for saw plates and I say this with some reluctance because it is certainly the easiest method of removing heavy rust and reaches down into pits that are difficult to reach with mechanical methods.

The thread above may answer any questions on the subject, but it is long. Make sure you have plenty to drink .

Regards
Paul

Ok everyone, started to rehab the Disston panel saw.........

Got all the the hardware out execpt one. The screw is frozen into the other half and now the assembly just turns around.

How do I get it undone with the minium or no damage to the handle.

Tried the pliers but not enough to grab onto.


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On the other hand a mate turn up after helping a neighbour cleanout a deceased estate garage with these.

Only a cleanup needed. (Sorry forgot the before pics). Both are Disstons.


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Just need a sharpen.