Needs Pictures: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 41
-
27th December 2020, 08:30 PM #16Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2016
- Location
- Bentleigh East
- Age
- 50
- Posts
- 423
-
27th December 2020 08:30 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
27th December 2020, 08:34 PM #17
Put up a picture showing the front of the Record and another showing the frog with the lever cap, cap iron and blade removed. From that we can rough date it and work out the length of time it’ll take to get it to perform at it’s optimum; and also what that optimium actually is...
I can go one place easier with Graham’s Stanley quality scale; look to see where it was made. If it says “Made in the USA” or “Made in Canada” it is likely to have been made either before WW2 or just after. From the 50’s onwards only UK Stanleys were imported and while the early ones (1937 to ~1950) were “ok” the majority soon devolved into dross. Post WW2 US Stanleys are a bit thin on the ground.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
-
27th December 2020, 08:45 PM #18
Dumb question but I have to ask; you DO loosen off the front knob before trying the move the lever don’t you?
Strip the whole thing down and try the fit of every mating component. Does the front mouth insert piece slide smoothly by hand or does it bind? Does the threaded boss engage smoothly with the slot in the lever? Does the lever move side to side smoothly? It’s a case where you have to find which pair or pairs of components don’t work as well as they should and fettle them until they do.
Mine does slide pretty smoothly but I tap the lever with a bit of timber to fine tune the mouth opening; I get better control that way rather than using my thumb. I also do it to all my block planes.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
-
27th December 2020, 08:59 PM #19Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2016
- Location
- Bentleigh East
- Age
- 50
- Posts
- 423
-
27th December 2020, 10:38 PM #20
Try this; slide in the mouth plate loosely then press down on it and try to slide it back and forth; if it binds then examine the outer corners for burs and the inside corners for high spots. Gently remove any burs with a scrap of 400 grit emery paper. Then totally degrease the mouth plate and mouth opening and scribble all the mouth plate rubbing surfaces with black Texta. Repeat the rubbing activity; you are looking for shiny high spots on the mouth plate and black spots in the mouth where the Texta ink has transferred from one to the other.
Once you’ve identified where the two pieces are catching each other you can then identify the cure. Depending on which surface are rubbing you can scrape, polish or lap them together; you must avoid scraping any surface that can potentially seat the mouth plate deeper into the mouth as this will require the whole sole to be re-flattened. Polishing with 800 grit upwards, lapping with fine carborundum (or diamond) paste or burnishing with a polished HSS flat bar will limit the potential for harm.
Happy for you to PM me for my contact details if you’d like a telephone (or better written) tutorial.Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
-
28th December 2020, 12:00 AM #21
With the OPs original question - perhaps the vendor might be asked for their opinion?
Timbecon isn't the kind of business to sell something they dont think is decent. That isn't the type of business they are.
Has anyone evaluated it? Perhaps if OP buys it, have it studied by one of the forums plane aficionados to check it over?
-
28th December 2020, 11:08 AM #22Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2016
- Location
- Bentleigh East
- Age
- 50
- Posts
- 423
ok I've figured out what's going on, I hope people don't mind if I post a couple of photos.
It's funny that I only noticed this now after owning and using the plane for years, but this was actually the first time I wanted to adjust the mouth and tried to use this feature. I had set it once when I first got it and just left it there.
ok so this is the knob.
It's made of 3 parts, the wooden knob itself, the threaded rod with the round brass plate and the top screw that secures it all together. And it's all supposed to stay together and behave as one piece.
Except it doesn't. If I screw it on the plane and tighten it and then turn it counterclockwise to loosen it, the top brass screw unwinds itself, and the knob comes off the plane leaving the threaded rod on the plane. After this the only way to remove the rod from the plane is with a pliers.
Maybe I'm missing something but I have no idea how this was designed to work in the first place. What was supposed to stop the 3-piece knob from coming apart if you turn it counter-clockwise? Am I missing some component maybe?
-
28th December 2020, 11:56 AM #23SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 749
OK - so back to the OP & answering his questions (although I'm sure the notes on adjusting the LAJ are useful.)
Good choice Kuriatko! Learn to use what you have.
There are a lot of good YouTube turorials. Matt Estlea has a great series of tutorial videos & some really good hand-tool tutorial projects.
Here is his playlist on setting up & using hand planes:
Setting Up and Using Planes - YouTube
Sharpening Video:
Using a bench plane:
And here is a good beginner project that includes step by step video instruction:
Dovetail Box Project | Free Online Woodworking School - Matt Estlea
Rex Kruger has some very approachable tutorials - start with these:
Sharpening:
Plane Use:
For another take on plane setup Paul Sellers has good videos - for example:
-
28th December 2020, 12:01 PM #24GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,893
Great video's RM. K. I find Rex Krueger to be particulatily down to earth. Paul Sellers is excellent but sometimes a little long winded
-
28th December 2020, 12:14 PM #25New Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2016
- Location
- AU
- Posts
- 1
Ιn my opinion this "stupidly sharp edge" is a bit of an unnecessary fixation that ultimately puts a lot of people off. I think most people are looking for "how to get your tools reasonably sharp in the absolute minimum amount of time, because sharpening is boring"
Sent from my Redmi Note 7 using Tapatalk
-
28th December 2020, 12:40 PM #26SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 749
You need to understand that YouTube video titles are a form of clickbait - the content creator is trying to get people to watch their videos in a sea of clutter. Watch the Matt Estlea video - it is about getting a plane blade sharp enough to actually work.
With regard to "how to get your tools reasonably sharp in the absolute minimum amount of time" - that depends on how you want to define "reasonably". In my view, that means sharp enough to pare end-grain in soft timber and sharp enough to refine the edge so it can hold up for an extended period of use without folding or chipping. That means SHARP. Honing should not take a long time if the edge is sharp to begin with and is maintained in good condition.
Read through this thread to see what can be achieved in terms of edge durability with a properly sharp tool - The Unicorn method
-
28th December 2020, 12:41 PM #27
Aha, simple diagnosis and the remedy is pretty simple too: LAJ4.jpg
As you can see, I've been there before you, but it was quite a few years ago & I'd forgotten about it & it wasn't 'til I went & looked at my plane that the penny dropped. In my case I made a new knob & shaft, because I could, and I wanted to preserve the original as it was in case I decided to get rid of the plane, so I wanted to keep the original knob original.
The not-so-clever idea of the original knob seems to be that you tighten the stud through the knob enough to prevent the wood rotating as you tighten/loosen it. This clearly doesn't work well, as you've discovered. The little round nut under the disc is supposed to act as a lock-nut & prevent he shaft unscrewing through the disc, but it's hard to tighten everything up enough for it to hold. Use a drop of Loctite on the bottom (disc) thread and lock nut before screwing the top barrel nut down as hard as is safe. That should be enough to lock the shaft on the knob & cure your problem, but the pins would add extra insurance. Worked for me anyway, I've obviously had no further trouble & even forgotten I had a problem in the first place...
Cheers,IW
-
28th December 2020, 12:59 PM #28Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2016
- Location
- Bentleigh East
- Age
- 50
- Posts
- 423
Thanks Ian, good to know I'm not the only one, I was starting to question my sanity
I'm keeping this plane forever so I don't mind modding it. I'll drill through the disc and into the wood of the knob and insert a rod or something. Plus loctite on the screw. If it all goes sideways I'll make another knob.
Thanks!
-
28th December 2020, 01:06 PM #29Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2016
- Location
- Bentleigh East
- Age
- 50
- Posts
- 423
I know, I know, sorry I'm not arguing. I've actually watched all those videos in the past, and they're good.
The thing is, I'm not that far removed from being a complete newbie, and I still remember exactly what it was trying to learn woodworking from youtube. So I'm just adding that newbie perspective, now that I also have a (vague) idea of what else is actually important. Youtube can make woodworking sound like a sharpening competition. But there's another 99 things that are important, and it's easy to forget that 99% of my attention needs to be invested elsewhere from sharpening. Just pointing that out.
-
28th December 2020, 01:09 PM #30
Yet another golden post by Ian. Thank you.
What Ian didn't say is that he also took the opportunity to subtly change the size and shape of the knob - presumably to better fit his hand size and technique. Also he changed the knobs timber type and the finish 'cause he couldn't help himself....
Similar Threads
-
Advice" Luban Low Angle Plane
By deerndingo in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 29Last Post: 23rd April 2020, 05:49 PM -
WIP - John's "Jack-Bench"
By johnredl in forum THE WORK BENCHReplies: 31Last Post: 22nd September 2011, 12:18 PM -
Veritas 5-1/4 Bench Plane Vs Low-Angle Jack Plane
By Wolfs in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 10Last Post: 30th April 2008, 01:43 PM -
Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane
By GregLee in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWEREDReplies: 17Last Post: 19th August 2004, 10:50 PM