Thread: What tool is this?

photos needed

G'day BT

Are you talking about a Sawset shown here
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=36957

Thats the bugger, Thanks DJ fancy it being up on the same page as when I posted my own thread!
But can anyone tell me what setting do I pick for any given handsaw? and how to use them. I imagine you work your way along the saw setting every second tooth then flip it over and do the others.
I've got more old handsaws than you can poke a stick at so if anyone can tell me how to use these it would be great.
Cheers
Tony

Tony

Have a look at this site. It'll give you an idea or two!

http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/f...mer/sharp.html

Thanks Driver,
An idea or two thousand!!!! what a great site. OK I've got a mission .. see what I can do with those rusty old Disstons.
Cheers

If you have rusty old saws or rusty old anything for that matter you need to do a search on electrolisis and or check out the hand toll preservation site article on electrolisis.

A number of us have tried this for rust removal and it works very well.


BTW those saw sets were very common at one stage but I don't think you have been able to buy one new for quite some time, if you plan to hand sharpen saws you realy must have one.

cheers

Originally Posted by soundman

BTW those saw sets were very common at one stage but I don't think you have been able to buy one new for quite some time, if you plan to hand sharpen saws you realy must have one.

Lee Valley sell saw sets, as do Tools for Working Wood. Check out

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43072,43086

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...Category_Code=

Some saws sets have numbers on the anvil. The manufacturer inteded for you to match the number on the anvil with the PPI of the saw.

From my experience though that gives you way too much set on the saw, unless you are a carpenter of course

Just experiment alittle maybe one or two settings below the PPI of your saw or if your Saw Set has no numbers then match it up approximately to the set of the teeh on your saw below the handle which is the part that gets the least abuse / use.

Regards
Stephen

Driver, thankyou very much for posting that site, its just what I was looking for as well.

Originally Posted by Zsteve

Some saws sets have numbers on the anvil. The manufacturer inteded for you to match the number on the anvil with the PPI of the saw.

From my experience though that gives you way too much set on the saw, unless you are a carpenter of course

Hi Stephen,

Just as a point of clarification--the numbers are only a crude index on most saw sets, even vintage ones. Some sets did have an intended ppi as indicated on the anvil, some closer to real-life than others.

Do note that while the ones at LV and TWW are patterned after the Eclipse set, the original is better built, mainly the anvil. That said, the new ones will last for a long time and do work rather well.

The general idea is to set the teeth evenly and alternating form side to side and as little as necessary.

The type of woods used can also determine how much is proper set. For instance, Pine, Poplar and the Oaks need more set than Jarrah and the harder woods.

Take care, Mike

Originally Posted by Driver

Lee Valley sell saw sets, as do Tools for Working Wood. Check out

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43072,43086

Hi Driver I just checked out the link you sent for Lee Valley to see what saw sets are worth. Noticed that they quote USD but you can convert this to international currency.:confused:
Damn I think I've spent all of my international currency

Originally Posted by Bleedin Thumb

Hi Driver I just checked out the link you sent for Lee Valley to see what saw sets are worth. Noticed that they quote USD but you can convert this to international currency.:confused:
Damn I think I've spent all of my international currency

I use the following website to check on conversions. It's been fairly accurate.

http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Take care, Mike

Mike,
I would agree with all that you said.

But Just out of interest, I have the original instructions from an eclipse 77 which as a guide talk about anvil number matching the PPI of the saw, not my words. A couple of old timers I know (mainly old chippies) also give similar info.

For dry wood I generally like to set the saw with as little set as possible to give adequate clearance and to give a smooth cut the less the amount od excess set the better the cut ends up. Of course you always need to 'stone the saw after sharpening and setting to ensure it tracks straight.

There plenty of good info on the web, everyones got there own slightly differing version on it. have a look at it all and then do what you think works best for you.

Regards
Stephen

Hi Stephen,

Yeah, the instructions pretty much say that on the older saw sets. The new ones referenced on the LV and TWW site, the Somax clone of the Eclipse, are only reference numbers.

Still, even the good old Eclipse I have adds way too much set for a given PPI. Doesn't even go small enough for a fine pitched saw as is. It does if modified.

My feeling is these sets were required to fit a broader range of application. That is they needed to be used for worse than ideal woods. Like greener woods used for carpentry, vs. the dry woods used for furniture.

fwiw, though I don't always set a saw perfectly, most of the saws we make require no stoning. Aside from an uneven set, slight variance of rake and or fleam can also affect tracking. Stoning is an answer for all but the worse errors.

Take care, Mike