Thread: A New Tool Obsession

Originally Posted by DSEL74

I want to make a saw!! Not really sure where to go from here. It seems you need a good saw to cut the slot in the handle to make the saw. Catch 22

I'm thinking something with a 10" blade and 18-20Tpi. I will also have to chase RayG for a scale tracing of his TLT handle.

Also curious are all spit Nuts used in saws the same size?

Hi Dale,

I was a pleasure meeting you yesterday, and I'll dig out some bits and pieces to post for you to make a saw, I posted a picture of the thread making setup over in the workbench thread.

Just a word of caution about saw making. It can become an all consuming addiction... just ask IanW or Stewie... dangerous territory.

Regards
Ray

PS Split nuts come in different sizes, usually around 7/16 up to over 3/4 for medallion screws.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

You know what the real problem with meeting other forum members is……………………..They introduce you to their tools and workshop!

And that leads to new obsessions!

Ah well, DSEL, it's not a bad thing, surely - life would be rather dull without a bit of passion, wouldn't it?

Originally Posted by DSEL74

....So today my hand saw obsession lead me to this……..
Handle_3790.jpg

I want to make a saw!! Not really sure where to go from here. It seems you need a good saw to cut the slot in the handle to make the saw. Catch 22

Not necessarily - there are several ways to go about slotting your handle, the main thing is to end up with a nice, straight slot, or it will warp the blade when you tighten the bolts.

Sometimes I do use a handsaw, very carefully, cutting a cm or so, then switching the handle round to make sure it follows the scribed centre-line exactly.

Mostly, I use a slitting saw, of the same thickness used to cut the slot in the spine, which cuts the right size for the saw plate I intend to use. I use the slitting saw to cut a deep slot around most of the cheek, then finish off with a saw made from an offcut of the blade material (not set). This is the best way I know to get a very accurate slot.

If you have the saw plate you intend using to hand, you can cut your slot with that. Clamp it to a board on a spacer that is half the width of your handle material (less half the width of your saw plate, if you want to be very precise) and move the handle against the saw rather than the other way round.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

.....I'm thinking something with a 10" blade and 18-20Tpi....

If you are toothing it yourself (& you will probably have to, because saw-sharpening places don't generally have machinery that can go so fine), I would advise no more than 18tpi, unless you want this exercise to end in frustration. A coarser pitch is much easier to manage, particularly for your first saw.

In fact, I think there is a tendency for people to favour unnecessarily fine tooth pitches. I have saws all the way up to 24 tpi, and the ones I use most in general work are all about 15 or 16 tpi. With this pitch, you can comfortably cut wood 8-10mm thick, and it cuts faster in thicker stock than fine pitches. Smoothness of cut is more about the quality of sharpening & setting of the saw than the pitch per se, but of course a poorly set fine-toothed saw leaves smaller scratches than a coarse one, all else being equal, so you get the impression of a smoother cut.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

.....Also curious are all spit Nuts used in saws the same size?

Obviously not - the nuts have to fit the bolts they are intended for. Indeed, there are several sizes available, both of the bolt diameter itself, & the head/nut diameters. For smaller saws like you are making, bolts of around 5mm (~3/16") diameter, with heads somewhere between 10 & 13 mm diameter are of a suitable scale. I have always made my own bolts & nuts, & there are several ways to go about it. I showed a couple in my AWR article (not much detail, due to space limitations), and BobL and others have posted on ways to make them on the forum. The Norse Woodsmith has a much more thorough set of instructions here.

BTW, have you thought about how you are going to slot your back? Or did you procure some pre-slotted brass from Ray?

You do realise, of course, that you cannot stop at one saw - this is a very slippery slope you have started on!
(Lots of fun, though....)

Good luck,

Originally Posted by IanW

I use the slitting saw to cut a deep slot around most of the cheek, then finish off with a saw made from an offcut of the blade material (not set). This is the best way I know to get a very accurate slot.

If you have the saw plate you intend using to hand, you can cut your slot with that. Clamp it to a board on a spacer that is half the width of your handle material (less half the width of your saw plate, if you want to be very precise) and move the handle against the saw rather than the other way round.

Slitting saw doesn't seem to be an option. But using the blade cut for the handle to make the slot is ingenious.

If you are toothing it yourself

I think that is how it will go.

BTW, have you thought about how you are going to slot your back? Or did you procure some pre-slotted brass from Ray?

I guess that depends on what is in the goodie bag from Ray….Thanks Ray this is really cool of you.

You do realise, of course, that you cannot stop at one saw - this is a very slippery slope you have started on!

That is what everyone says about every aspect on this forum, I guess if you stopped at one you would run out of things to make!

I have been looking at saw sets for doing the teeth and was wondering if any are better than others?

There possibly is one someplace in the shed that I have inherited but don't remember seeing one or know where to start looking. So I will keep an eye out at the trash markets and ebay.

I have seen some brass one by atlas, some steel and some really strange german ones that don't look anything like the others. What are you guys using??

I have the strange German one and two Eclipse 77's (the more common style). Go for the Eclipse style in brass. The other style works perfectly well but there's just more technique to it and I can't see them being much good on small teeth.

Yep, wot Matt sez.

Eclipse 77s are easy to find, cheap, & work well enough. You get better & more consistent with practice, but you should be able to do a tolerable job first try. Only caveat - the standard plunger is too wide for small teeth (15 tpi & finer), you need to grind the plunger a bit narrower, or buy a Somax 'blue' for your finer saws. The Somax is a knock-off of the Eclipse, with a narrow plunger. I've read a few complaints about their quality, but mine is no worse (or better) than the couple of Eclipses I have, & works perfectly well.....

Cheers,

Will keep my eye out for a good condition but bargain priced one.




So disappointed I missed out on a Disston Saw vice I have been watching on ebay for 9days was the only bidder then got snipered at last second the outbid notice even came after the email saying you didn't win. It was only about $20 and local so I wouldn't have had to pay postage or ridden far to collect.

I guess to pieces of wood in a good vice or well clamped will have to suffice!

Originally Posted by DSEL74

I guess to pieces of wood in a good vice or well clamped will have to suffice!

I have one piece of wood with a long slit in it, which i hold in a tiny bench top vice and squeeze tight with some clamps. The saws don't complain.

2 seen recently ...

eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d

Solid saw chocks simply made - Paul Sellers | Paul

Attachment 264481 DSC_0119-300x198.jpg

Picked up an old Eclipse saw set at the flea market on Sunday, looks in pretty good condition $4 Finally a tool I can afford without stressing over the cost!

It is the steel version not the cast brass one unfortunately.


Thinking about the best way to make a screw driver for the brass handle screws (one with a gap in the blade). If I had an old spade bit it would be an easy way to go..but I don't.

A good cheats saw nut spanner is a butter knife, snapped/cut off square half way down the blade with a little notch filed in the end to fit the nut. I'd show you photo of mine but I accidentally threw it out with the last batch of shavings

Originally Posted by DSEL74

......It is the steel version not the cast brass one unfortunately.....

I didn't know they made 'em in steel, but you learn every day. The only advantage of brass is that the part that rests on the teeth during use won't cause any significant damage, but it's not all that big a deal as most people set before final sharpening...

Originally Posted by DSEL74

......Thinking about the best way to make a screw driver for the brass handle screws (one with a gap in the blade). If I had an old spade bit it would be an easy way to go..but I don't.

DSEL, just about any old bit of steel will do - for years I used an old, cheap plastic handled driver filed to fit. I've since made them from different raw materials including an old mower blade & an old circular saw body. You are dealing mostly with brass, & even mild steel is tougher than brass saw nuts....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

BTW, have you thought about how you are going to slot your back? Or did you procure some pre-slotted brass from Ray?

Would it be possible to slit a brass saw back with a dremel cut-off wheel?? Also what size material is most common for the spine?

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Would it be possible to slit a brass saw back with a dremel cut-off wheel?? Also what size material is most common for the spine?

The stuff I'm sending is already slit.. it's 3/4 x 1/4 but could be filed or shaped..

Regards
Ray

PS... I hope to put it in the mail before the end of the week.

PPS... Here's a saw nut screwdriver blank... 12mm x 150mm Spade Drill Bit for Wood, spade drill bits by R.E.I Trade DIY tools | eBay