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Thread: Tool Storage

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Broome, WA
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    91

    Default Tool Storage

    Hi all,

    Thought I'd ask the brains trust about tool storage.

    I currently live in Alice Springs and am about to move to Broome. We have nowhere to live yet and I don't know if the house we eventually rent will have a decent shed or not and I may not get to use my tools for a while. So my question relates to storage when not in use.

    With Broome being a quite humid place (especially compared to Alice) how should I store my hand tools that are prone to rusting when I may not be able to check on them frequently?

    The type of tools I'm referring to are planes, spokeshaves, chisels, hand saws, etc.

    All advice welcome.

    cheers,
    Justin

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sydney
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    3,096

    Default

    There are some products (sprays, papers, blocks) that have a chemical that stops rust formation if the container is relatively sealed... can't think of them off the top of my head but if the brains trust here won't answer then look around locally (gunshops often stock it).

    Otherwise, spray in light machine oil, wrap in oily rags, pack into a sealed wooden container.

    Or gun blue as many bits as you think you'd feel comfy making gunblued.
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  4. #3
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    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    Default

    Hmm, d.o., I don't envy you your upcoming battles with rust in a tropical, seaside setting. There's probably no 100% certain way to prevent rust on stored tools other than cover all bare metal with grease or something completely impervious to water vapour. However, I've had reasonable success in protecting stored tools by using products like Lanotec and storing in boxes/drawers/cupboards, whatever you can use to minimise air changes & the extra dose of water vapour each fresh influx of air brings. Mind you, that's in a somewhat less challenging environment.....

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    I would spray them with wd40 or similar.
    Then wrap them in grease proof paper.
    Then in to some timber boxes
    You could also put some damp rid in the boxes as we'll.
    Good luck with the move and hope it comes with some sort of shedding

  6. #5
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    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    http://www.rustbullet.com.au/

    http://www.theruststore.com

    http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshiel...osol-P3C4.aspx

    http://www.jpwmarine.com.au/products...n/default.aspx

    I still think that a petrochemical light machine oil, wrapping in oily rags and sealing in a timber/ply box will serve you well.
    Rust sucks, better to prevent than treat.
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Mainland N.Z.
    Posts
    877

    Default

    Use something with a little 'stick' (maybe Lanotec), WD40 types of spray are unreliable. They work well on some things some times but not all steel all the time.

    Another tip is make sure all planes, spoke-shaves etc have been thoroughly cleaned of saw dust.......saw dust attracts and holds moisture.


    Broome? Sigh........I hear it's warm and nice and there are hardly ever any earthquakes...........
    We don't know how lucky we are......

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    East of Melbourne Aus.
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    Default

    The best thing you could do is put them in a box and post them all to me.
    I am learning, slowley.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Broome, WA
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    Default

    Hi all,

    Thanks for all the advice. I've sourced some lanotec and have packed up my better chisels in a wooden box after spraying them and wrapping in oily rags. I've got a sacrificial set of chisels for use.

    I'm considering packing my stanley bench planes and specialty planes in much the same way and then investing in some wooden hand planes for use as it would be easier to maintain just the blades against rust and not the entire plane (though SWMBO has queried whether I'm just wanting to buy more tools....). I'm even wondering whether to store them here in Alice at a mate's place or in the Perth hills with my father-in-law (both have no interest in woodworking).

    Is this overkill? It's easy to get complacent about protecting tools against rust in Alice so I'm a little fearful as I haven't had to be so vigilant.

    Great news is that we've got a house with a nice shed - bigger than mine here so I'm very happy about that.

    Cheers,
    Justin

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
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    Default

    No, Justin, it isn't overkill.

    None of my shotguns (12) was overly expensive but I do not hesitate to hunt birds in the rain. The PB Chesapeake Bay Retrievers don't know the difference. We all come home, covers in weeds, water and mud.
    I'd hate to lose a dog and I'd hate to lose a gun to rust.
    It's work to know that at the end of the day, you have a reliable system to keep that metal clean and corrosion-free. It's work to sustain that reliability.
    I must look into the protection products that you mentioned.
    WD40 means "water-displacing formula #40." It ain't a rust inhibitor. I use Fluid Film penetrating lubricant on a rag after first drying, then WD40.

    I wish you well in the move. I wish you well that you tool stash can take the shift from Alice (my D2 worked there for a year?, met my furure SIL, now I'm a Grandpa with twins!. . .. . )

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Armadale Perth WA
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    Default

    You can get non-spraypack lanolin at Supercheap Auto, for one. 600ml in a squeeze spray bottle I think.
    Better value for money I think.

    Many people have recommended G15 ... and you can also get Ballistol which gun-owners use and I had recommended for saws.

    I have a dovetailed chest rescued from the roadside and very minorly rehabilitated that I have turned into saw storage. It was lined with tin, which I wondered about previously, but I think its main advantage AFAIK seems to be limiting air-movement, like Ian said about a drawer or etc. It has been sitting on the back patio with some nice saws in it for months now, and on regular checking they are doing very nicely, whereas something left nearby exposed to the air would do much less well.

    I wonder if a dish of WD40 would have any usefulness in capturing moisture from the air?
    (I spray some on the base of the chest - mainly for the nice smell.)

    Cheers,
    Paul

    PS - have you seen Clifton1's outdoor exposure rust-prevention experiment thread?

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Birchgrove NSW
    Posts
    66

    Default

    Sorry to be late in replying.

    My workshop is a boatshed; the water laps up to the door, so I have plenty of rust potential.

    Not doubt this is not new to you but here goes:

    The crucial thing is to cover any ferrous surface: for all machine surfaces I have a two-part cover, soft felt underneath and vinyl backing on top.

    All tools are kept in cupboards or drawers. This is crucial. Put some of those humidity absorbers into each space and make sure to dry them in the sun or oven every few weeks.

    For 'permanent' surfaces such as exposed steel parts of my tablesaw, bandsaw, etc (not machined surfaces) I sand any rust back to the metal and coat with Rust Conqueror, which forms a lacquered surface. I have tried the oily product put out by POR and it is not as long-lasting as Rust Conqueror. Need to re-coat these metal parts every two years or so.

    For machined surfaces, about twice a year I rub any rusty spots (just a rust stain really) with an abrasive pad and one of the Empire products for that purpose. Then wax with SilverGlide.

    Where a permanent coating is not appropriate ( hand planes, chisels, etc) I use G15. It is better than Inox or WD40 because although those products leave a film, G15 is designed to leave a much denser film. I wax hand plane soles with paste wax. Just wipe the sides of the plane down before using, and at the end of the day ALWAYS replace in cupboard and spray some G15 on sides. Or wipe with Camellia Oil, which seems just as good as G15.

    For tools I use only occasionally, like a compass plane, I treat as above then place in a plastic bag while wet with the oil, secure the bag around the tool, works perfectly.

    That's it really. Despite the water at my door, I have minimal rust problems. COVERING IS THE KEY.

    Cheers,
    Mark

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Perth WA
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    97

    Default

    I burn through quite a bit of G15, stuff hasn't let me down so far. I also use camelia oil and try to put things away, sometimes....
    If I'm leaving things out I have several old tea-towels soaked lightly in camelia oil that I tend to throw over things on the bench. Seems to work OK for my tools here in Perth and down South...

  14. #13
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    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay Qld
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    Default

    For the humid and salt water moisture laden coastal air I would be inclined to spray the tool s in one of the heavy duty lanoline sprays.

    If you do a check on the make up of Fluid film,thats what it is.The lanoline is sprayed on via the hand pump it comes in and is cost efficient.In Mackay we get the moisture laden salty air blowing over the coal terminals and we have sulphur laden corrosive dust to contend with .The lanoline protects against this very well.

    Grahame

  15. #14
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    Jan 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    At the last H&F open day the Fluidfilm rep gave his spiel and demo, I listened to his blah blah as I mulled over price comparisons. After he finished he offered me as small sample spray can, being the type of bloke I am I took it.
    It sat on the bench for a few weeks until I decided to initiate my irregular sprucing up of the table on the 18" bandsaw.
    I was impressed!! Onto the other toys with gusto. It was so good I purchased the big can and used it up. On reflection I found the spray can uneconomical for machine beds and tables. My next purchase was a couple of the small squeeze bottles, that was 6 months ago and it lasts much better by squeezing a bit onto a cloth and rubbing in. Little or no residue on surface but look great and no rust. I'm certainly a fan.

  16. #15
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    Sep 2008
    Location
    Wongawallan, SE Qld
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    Default

    Good luck with the move Justin. I had much the same issue moving from Alice and putting all of my tools into storage while I went sailing for a few years, having not had to really think about rust for 20 years.

    At the time I use bucket loads of WD40, but if I'd had it available I'd have gone with a lanolin based product as Seanz suggested and as you are doing....go wild with the stuff use far too much, it's easier to clean off later on than the rust

    cheers
    Greg

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