Thread: Toothed Blade for LV LA Block Plane?

I have one of those little guys and I absolutely love it! It is without a doubt the best plane I own and I take it out of the box more often than any other plane.

When I was recently smoothing the tabletop for the wokbench and I was getting a lot of terraout with all my other planes (teaches me for using crappy pine) the LV LA block came to the rescue.

I have used this plane on hardwoods, softwoods, shooting mitres, cleaning up tenons, and it is very capable. I dont know what the toothed blades are like but I would personally save the money to go towards an LV LA BU plane or the jack.

Others may disagree but I found this little guy extremely capable with just the one blade.

regards

Marios

Originally Posted by routermaniac

I have one of those little guys and I absolutely love it! It is without a doubt the best plane I own and I take it out of the box more often than any other plane.

When I was recently smoothing the tabletop for the wokbench and I was getting a lot of terraout with all my other planes (teaches me for using crappy pine) the LV LA block came to the rescue.

I have used this plane on hardwoods, softwoods, shooting mitres, cleaning up tenons, and it is very capable. I dont know what the toothed blades are like but I would personally save the money to go towards an LV LA BU plane or the jack.

Others may disagree but I found this little guy extremely capable with just the one blade.

regards

Marios

addendum:

If you are thinking about another accessory for the block, try the chamfer guide, it is extremely useful and works well.

Hello Brenton,

It really depends on the woods and or what it is you make. Unless you work highly figured wood, knotty wood, or veneer, I would give it a pass.

Using a toothed blade to prepare the ground (wood surface) when one is veneering does work well. I have not used a toothed blade on a low angle plane so I am unsure of its efficacy for this purpose. I have an old wood toothing plane for this purpose where the blade is nearly vertical.

There have been figured wood I have used this toothing plane to waste high spots where the figure is especially unruly and it works great for that.

A second blade for the plane, though, is a great addition. This allows use of a higher angle or just having a second, fresh blade to swap out during work instead of stopping and honing.

Take care, Mike

Originally Posted by routermaniac

addendum:

If you are thinking about another accessory for the block, try the chamfer guide, it is extremely useful and works well.

Thank Routermaniac - I have order the chamfer guide.

Cheers
Brenton

Originally Posted by MikeW

Hello Brenton,

It really depends on the woods and or what it is you make. Unless you work highly figured wood, knotty wood, or veneer, I would give it a pass.

Using a toothed blade to prepare the ground (wood surface) when one is veneering does work well. I have not used a toothed blade on a low angle plane so I am unsure of its efficacy for this purpose. I have an old wood toothing plane for this purpose where the blade is nearly vertical.

There have been figured wood I have used this toothing plane to waste high spots where the figure is especially unruly and it works great for that.

A second blade for the plane, though, is a great addition. This allows use of a higher angle or just having a second, fresh blade to swap out during work instead of stopping and honing.

Take care, Mike

Mike - I did pass on the tooth and ordered the 2nd blade for HA.

Thanks for you advice.

Cheers
Brenton

Have fun with it, Brenton...the LV LA block is an oft used plane here in my shop. Feels great in the hand. Works marvelous.

The LV apron plane is also a great addition when and if you decide another is in your future. I slip it into a holster on my belt and it's always ready. Nice for less demanding work than its big brother. But I reach for it to quickly ease edges all the time.

Take care,
Mike

Hi All,

I am just considering buying the LV LA block, and was looking at getting an extra blade...
what is the best for the Aussie hard woods??? I always thought that the harder the wood the bigger the angle... so would the 50 be the best extra???

Thanks
Greg.

Hi Brenton

All good advice. I would have also said forget the toothed blade for now (use one on a bench plane instead if you are planing very interlinked timber).

Block planes are interesting buggers. One assumes that a low cutting angle is best because they will be used to trim end grain. But I warrant that most of the time they are used to trim edge and face grain instead.

A low cutting angle will leave a smoother finish on end grain, but a high angle will be better on edges and faces as this will leave less tearout.

I have finally started to get to the mini block plane reviews, and this past weekend pulled out the HNT Gordon sent to me by Terry Gordon for inclusion. One of the bathroom doors had swollen along the edge and needed trimming to fit. I must say that this plane was just wonderful! It functioned like a mini-smoother-jack. Effortless shavings in hard maple. Its cutting angle is 55 degrees.

So a LA block plane with a standard 25 degree bevel for end grain and a 40 degree bevel for face/edge grain would be a good combination.

Regards from Perth

Derek

ps get the tote/knob to go with the LV LA Block plane!!!!!!!!! This will create a #3 sized bench plane. It is fantastic in this format (with the high angle blade)!!!

I'll second getting the chamfer guide. Easy to use and works extremely well.