Thread: An unusual plane

Stanley #130?

The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Planes #90 - #100

Originally Posted by seanz

Stanley #130?

The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Planes #90 - #100

Thanks seanz there it is a Stanley #130

#130 Double end block plane, 8"L, 1 3/4"W (1 5/8", 1909 on), 1 5/8lbs, 1884-1955.




The picture doesn't really show just how odd this little fellow is.
Anyone got an idea of cost to buy one?

Mr Stanley must have had planes on the brain!!
Have you seen just how many variations there are?

Hi Rod
they are selling for around $50 - $60 on eBay. I had one recently and gave it to my son who is a chippy.
He liked it right off and this reinforced my thoughts that this plane is better suited to that kind of work. I have a couple of Stanley planes with the adjustable mouth which I prefer over the #130
regards
TT

I agree with TT, they are not the most elegant tool in the chest, just a block plane with an added rump. They don't offer anything that my110 (which is just about the most basic block plane Stanley ever made), doesn't deliver in 'normal' mode, & I really wonder how many times they are ever set up to work in bullnose mode? When you switch the blade to the bullnose position, the depth adjustor doesn't function, & you have to adjust it by tapping, which probably puts many off.

Funnily enough, I have one I came across in a pile of junk destined for the tip, which is occasionally handy to me because it is damaged. The little bit of toe on the bullnose end has been broken off (whether accidentally or deliberately, I don't know) so instead of a bullnose, it's now a reasonably functional 'chisel plane' with the blade switched. Not quite the same as a 'real' chisel plane because the blade doesn't cover the full width of the front, so it can't reach into the last couple of mm of a corner. But I suppose I can't complain, at the price...

Cheers,

I got one a few years back and cleaned it up. A bit larger and heavier than a block plane and lighter than a No 4. I use mine for traveling jobs as it is a good addition to the tool bag for fitting doors and things. Never had the need to use the back end so far. I think my one cost $20 at a market.
Regards
John

I found this on eBay today. I wonder how it would perform?
TT

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

I found this on eBay today. I wonder how it would perform?
TT

I'd like to find one. But I've not seen one for sale in NZ. The #130 is OK to use....but.....it's a bit hefty for a block plane and I've never been much good at adjusting bevel down planes that don't have an adjustment mechanism.
I would like to try out the #131 because I think the extra heft and ease of adjustment (still no lateral adjuster) would make a handy little bench plane. Maybe even a small miter plane?

Patrick's B&G doesn't have a lot of positive things to say about the #131, apparently, if you can find one undamaged, it's a minor miracle.

Originally Posted by seanz

Patrick's B&G doesn't have a lot of positive things to say about the #131, apparently, if you can find one undamaged, it's a minor miracle.

I reckon you'd be better off using a No3 plane with all the benefits of the micro adjustments and the two handed control.


TT

You are probably right.......even without going into the whole bevel-up/down actual cutting angle hoohaa........but I'd still like to find out.

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

I reckon you'd be better off using a No3 plane with all the benefits of the micro adjustments and the two handed control. TT

You can make just about any old thing plane ok if you work at it long enough, but the question is, why bother? If the answer is "out of simple curiosity & just to see what I can do", then by all means have at it. Any time spent fixing & fettling is time well-spent in learning about how planes function. But if you want to end up with a decent small bench plane, follow TT's suggestion.

Assuming you use 'standard' bevel geometry, a 130 has the same cutting angle as the Bailey, give or take a degree. But any decent #3 will outperform a 130 in just about every way. Not least, the comfort & control it offers will make a huge difference if you intend using it for more than taking a few swipes here & there. I would argue that the superior performance of the very expensive block planes has nothing to do with cutting angles, and lots to do with well-bedded, thicker blades held in place by well-fitting lever caps. Contrary to popular folk-law, a standard block plane is absolutely no better for planing end grain than a regular bench plane, if both are performing properly. The low-angle beds (~12.5 degrees) are another matter, because now you're talking about a real difference in the angle metal hits the wood.

This is just my opinion, and there will be plenty with other views, but I reckon block planes are tools with limited uses. They fall into the 'handy, but not essential to a core kit of good tools', category. If you stumble on one for a few dollars, by all means let it follow you home, just about any model will function adequately for breaking edges and other one-handed jobs, and earn a place in the tool cupboard. But if I had real work in mind, I would splash my cash on something that I know will do the job without giving me cramps & blisters....

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

I agree with TT, they are not the most elegant tool in the chest, just a block plane with an added rump. They don't offer anything that my110 (which is just about the most basic block plane Stanley ever made), doesn't deliver in 'normal' mode, & I really wonder how many times they are ever set up to work in bullnose mode? When you switch the blade to the bullnose position, the depth adjustor doesn't function, & you have to adjust it by tapping, which probably puts many off.

Funnily enough, I have one I came across in a pile of junk destined for the tip, which is occasionally handy to me because it is damaged. The little bit of toe on the bullnose end has been broken off (whether accidentally or deliberately, I don't know) so instead of a bullnose, it's now a reasonably functional 'chisel plane' with the blade switched. Not quite the same as a 'real' chisel plane because the blade doesn't cover the full width of the front, so it can't reach into the last couple of mm of a corner. But I suppose I can't complain, at the price...

Cheers,

its not really a tool for the workshop or bench (though nothing prevents you from using it as such), more a space saver duel function tool for the carry around tool box, the bull nose end can come in handy for trimming up stuck windows and doors without having to take em off their hinges


cheers
chippy