Thread: WIP - Saw Restorations

Andrew,
Looks like you got the bug. No going back now. You just have to check this market and that junk shop in case there is a hidden treasure. Before long you will be able to replace most of the plastic handled things in the shed with real tools.
Regards
John

Oh I've already got it John!. There's another two saws underway and a template drawn on a bit of maple to replace the handle on a hardpoint saw, and a pile of other bits and pieces ready for restore. I love seeing how they turn out and there's just something about that warm amber wood glow that makes the whole shed look nicer!

Originally Posted by andrewr79

and a template drawn on a bit of maple to replace the handle on a hardpoint saw, !

Dont waste the maple on a hard point as they can't be sharped once blunt they are throw away.

Andrew

Good point, Good Point. I just don't like the yellow and black Stanley handle mixed in with the nicely restored ones!.

Originally Posted by kiwioutdoors

Dont waste the maple on a hard point as they can't be sharped once blunt they are throw away.

Andrew

I dunno - it's easy to file the teeth off and you end up with a decent saw plate

"Di**eys" in Goulburn had a strange Stanley tenon saw on special for $2.99 - the set was huge and the sharpening was terrible

But where else was i going to get a plate and back for that price

Back to the topic

Hardpoints rarely go more than two thirds of the height of the tooth and after that you are back to a simple piece of steel to play with

Have fun

Neil

I was actually wondering that but didn't want to ask in case it was obvious!. It's only the darkened bits that are hardened right?

Originally Posted by andrewr79

I was actually wondering that but didn't want to ask in case it was obvious!. It's only the darkened bits that are hardened right?

Pretty much. I've re-used several of them now, and the hardening was no more than about a tooth depth past the gullets in any of them, as Neil says.

When the time comes to re-tooth, don't wreck a file trying to get rid of the hardened teeth, clamp the saw between two bits of reasonably straight steel to keep the 'good' side cool, & run a cut-off wheel along it. That takes about 10 seconds. You can easily tell when you are back to normal saw plate - a file will now cut the steel easily.

Most of the hardpoints I used had very flimsy spines. While you are making that new handle, think about a new brass spine for it, too.

With a decent handle & a brass spine, you'll have a silk purse made from a pig's ear!

Cheers

Originally Posted by IanW

Most of the hardpoints I used had very flimsy spines. While you are making that new handle, think about a new brass spine for it, too.

And while you're at it, there would be no harm throwing in a new saw plate as well...

Originally Posted by NZStu

And while you're at it, there would be no harm throwing in a new saw plate as well...

That would be a bit like the bushman's axe that lasted for three generations - it had a lot of new handles & a coupla new heads, but it was still the same axe, eh Stu?

Seriously - having used several 'throwaway' hardpoints for making saws, I can assure you there is absolutely nothing wrong with the plate, and since that's often the most difficult component for most would-be saw makers to source, why waste what is essentially a freebie??

Cheers,