WIP - Restoring Grandad's Saw

**Dion N** · 12th June 2008, 04:12 PM

My dad recently returned from a visit to his father with an old Disston back saw. It's not anything flash, almost certainly post WW2, so it's face value is probably low. Of course it has a certain sentimental value coming from my grandfather. Interestingly, I was unable to accurately identify it, even after visiting the Disstonian Istintute Website. The faded etching on the blade inidicates it is a Keystone, possibly a K-15. Keystone was a well known series of panel saws, but I've been unable to locate any info on Keystone backsaws.

When I received it, the teeth were in poor condition, blunt, and unevenly sized, so I scribed a line and filed off the teeth using a mill file. Since I already have a Disston crosscut backsaw of this size, I decided to file this one as a 12 PPI rip saw (I guess that make it a tenon saw)

Attachment 75274

I removed the handle and used a scraper and some sandpaper to remove the buildup of grime. The saw was placed into my home-made saw vice

Attachment 75279

and the teeth were hand-cut using a template from the Norse Woodsmith website. Theoretically, I should have used a Double Extra Slim Taper file, but Bunnies only stock Nicholson files down to Extra Slim, so I used a 4" XS. Not ideal, but it seems to work.

Attachment 75275

After cutting the teeth, the were given a slight set with my Eclipse # 77 saw set

Attachment 75276

Here's the final product

Attachment 75277

and a close up of the teeth.

Attachment 75278

Now of course, it's not quite at the standard of Mike Wenzloff or Eddie Sirotich

, but it's far nicer looking than when I received it and with a little bit of fine tuning should make a nice "user." I could have done a lot more with the handle, but it's going to be used, not put on display...

if you're interested in restoring, sharpening or even making your own back saw, I found that Pete Tarrants Vintage Saws www.vintagesaws.com and Norse Woodsmith http://norsewoodsmith.com/node/68 websites were pretty useful.

**prozac** · 13th June 2008, 01:16 AM

Nice tutorial Dion N, and an effective make-over too. Great job on the teeth.

prozac

**Dion N** · 13th June 2008, 02:15 PM

Thanks Prozac. I gave it a few test cuts last night. It tracked a little to the right so I stoned off some of the set. Too much actually and had to stone some off the other side and now it binds a little

Oh well... a chance to practice setting again..

**orraloon** · 13th June 2008, 02:18 PM

Nice make over. I have the same saw but with cross cut teeth.
I have a question about the saw set. I take it you went 12 tpi as that is as small as the set goes. The reason I ask is that my saw is about 15 tpi and I am forced to put too much set on it. I give it a side dress with the stone and that takes off a bit and it cuts reasonably. I have considered cutting new teeth at 12 tpi but due to general sloth I have not got around to it yet. How small do saw sets go.

Regards
John

**RayG** · 13th June 2008, 03:19 PM

Nice work, nothing like a sharp saw with some history. Good to see it
getting a new lease on life.

I had a look in Erwin Schaffer's "Hand-saw makers of North America" but
I find Disston identification pretty confusing.

They had a factory in Sydney from 1926.

Can't see K15 in the model listing, is it possibly something else?

**RayG** · 13th June 2008, 03:24 PM

Originally Posted by orraloon

How small do saw sets go.

Regards
John

Hi John, the saw set of choice for small teeth is the Stanley 42x, but the prices on ebay are getting a bit high.

I just got a "blue" somax from TFWW 12-26 tpi

Basically its the same as the "gold" somax but smaller hammer and different
grinding on the anvil. I think it's better to use than the 42x

Ray

**RayG** · 13th June 2008, 06:31 PM

Second thoughts, it looks like a No.4 see..

http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/backsawpage.html

This one?

**orraloon** · 14th June 2008, 05:54 PM

Thanks Ray. I have the gold Somax so will keep an eye out for the blue one or similar.

Regards
John

**RayG** · 16th June 2008, 02:19 PM

Originally Posted by RayG

Second thoughts, it looks like a No.4 see..

http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/backsawpage.html

This one?

Ha!, I just noticed I reposted your picture, I meant to post this one..

**Dion N** · 16th June 2008, 09:04 PM

Originally Posted by orraloon

Nice make over. I have the same saw but with cross cut teeth.
I have a question about the saw set. I take it you went 12 tpi as that is as small as the set goes. The reason I ask is that my saw is about 15 tpi and I am forced to put too much set on it. I give it a side dress with the stone and that takes off a bit and it cuts reasonably. I have considered cutting new teeth at 12 tpi but due to general sloth I have not got around to it yet. How small do saw sets go.

Regards
John

Actually - the TPI was based purely on the smallest file size available at Bunnies! The Ecplise saw set has a wheel to adjust the amount of set from 4 to 12 TPI, so I guess that would have limited me as well. Mind you the set at 12 TPI is pretty small anyway - you have to look closely so see if you have set the tooth or not.

**Lumber Bunker** · 19th June 2008, 12:06 AM

Originally Posted by orraloon

The reason I ask is that my saw is about 15 tpi and I am forced to put too much set on it.

Regards
John

Saw wih 15+ TPI, require very very little (read none) set. IF the saw plate is clean and very light waxed.
A saw that small is not ment to be removing much timber.

**Lumber Bunker** · 19th June 2008, 12:09 AM

Oh nice reno by the way Dion.
next time you shouldn't have to file the teeth completly off! unless you are changing the number of teeth. It's a bit of a waste of saw blade and extra stress for your file.
You've done a great job they (the teeth) look very even.

When stonning take only ONE pass with the stone and test. you should have to do any more then two or three,

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