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30th January 2018, 07:56 PM #31
I am a motor mechanic by trade so have a healthy collection of hammers
I think all my hammers have timber handles. My block splitter/sledge combo is a fiberglass cheapie and I have a cheapie mini mattock. I rehandled my grandmothers claw hammer decades ago and it hasn't moved, although I don't use it much.
I like timber handles for several reasons and second the comments above.
Good luck finding good handles.I'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
We live in a free country. We have freedom of choice. You can choose to agree with me, or you can choose to be wrong.
Wait! No one told you your government was a sitcom?
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30th January 2018 07:56 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th January 2018, 10:07 PM #32Woodworking mechanic
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Reminds me of the saying “if you can’t fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical fault”
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31st January 2018, 01:23 PM #33SENIOR MEMBER
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Many tradies - especially the younger ones - tend to snigger & sneer at my wooden handled tools. Nevertheless, my own personal strategy is justified thus: I'm a Carpal Tunnel sufferer. It's a painful, debilitating condition that is caused primarily by repetitive actions that is particularly exacerbated by impact. Plainly put, wooden handles tend to have innate spring & impact absorption characteristics that synthetic variants don't. My only exception to this self-imposed rule is a fiberglass handled blockbuster that's left out in the weather.
American hickory is a time proven solution that is available by mail order or internet sources both domestically (Oz) & via import. My favourite domestically sourced alternatives are Horizontal (Anelopetalum bigladulosum) & Tas Blue Gum (Eucalyptus globulus). Both offer the "holy trinity" of toughness, spring & resilience in spades, similar to the best hickory.
English Ash (Fraxinus excelsior), spotted gum (Corymbia maculata) & ironbark/silvertop ash (Eucalyptus sieberi) make lovely, usefully tough impact resistant chisel handle/mallet heads which require similar but slightly different characteristics to the others mentioned.
There's 2 caveats in my recommendation: firstly, any handle must be from well-seasoned timber so that it stays put & secondly it's best (as previously mentioned) that the handles' growth rings be perpendicular (i.e at right-angles) to the axis of impact/action of the tool.Sycophant to nobody!
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31st January 2018, 02:11 PM #34I'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
We live in a free country. We have freedom of choice. You can choose to agree with me, or you can choose to be wrong.
Wait! No one told you your government was a sitcom?
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31st January 2018, 06:09 PM #35
Nice one, Damien.
Years ago I was working as an accountant in a client's premises, an abboitoir, when a side of beef came off a hook half way along the processing line. The demarcation dispute then raged as to whether it was the province of the mechanical trades or the butchers. The half carcase sat on the floor while the argument continued until the meat inspectors condemned it, and the problem went away.
Cheers
Graeme
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2nd February 2018, 05:26 PM #36
Hi
For my money, you can't beat the Estwing claw hammer. The balance and feel surpasses that of a wood handled hammer. Well worth the higher price!Kind Regards
Peter
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7th February 2018, 11:58 AM #37
On the subject of Estwing, how about a timber handled Estwing?
P1030531.JPGP1030532.JPGP1030533.JPGP1030534.JPG
Many moons ago my leather handled Estwing disintegrated. I was incensed, but of course I had not taken sufficient care of the tool. So I made up a timber handle from Spotted Gum. Was it successful? Not entirely. This is the second handle and it too is due for another attempt.
The handle not being solid tends to shatter and crack over time. Would I buy another Estwing. Probably not as I have the refurbished tool plus multiple timber handled hammers. Not only that, one day my carpenter son explained to me that I should join the real world and buy a nailing gun. I have a Hitachi DA nailer, which I think might have been the best addition to the modern world since sliced bread and the electric drill.
Regards
paulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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8th February 2018, 08:41 AM #38GOLD MEMBER
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There is no drama replacing the leather handle on an Estwing. A few discs of leather are easy cut from an old briefcase or saddle flap and you're up and running. Shape up on a grinding wheel, coat of neatsfoot oil and you're good to go.
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8th February 2018, 11:36 AM #39.
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This is my fave hammer.
Doughamm.jpg
It's a genuine Douglas Framing hammer with hickory handle.
Even though it's a framing hammer i use it for most situations where I need to use a woodworking hammer.
It's beautifully balanced, transmits minimal shock compared to other hammers, and it's just a pleasure to use
I got mine in the US ~14 years ago for ~US$70 but now they are double that see Genuine Douglas hammers but good quality lookalike starts at around US$75 on Amazon.
Replacement handles are available from US$20 to US$35.
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8th February 2018, 12:25 PM #40
Bob
That's a techno look with the timber handle as well. Interesting combination. What is the significance and function of the perforated hammer head?
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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8th February 2018, 03:14 PM #41.
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8th February 2018, 04:47 PM #42SENIOR MEMBER
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Waffle faces make a big difference when framing. I'm a huge fan (Vaughan is my particular poison). I'm surprised they've never caught on in Oz. Despite the current ubiquity of Paslodes & Bostitch air hammers, a good quality lightweight long handled framer is still relevant to most building sites.
I personally hate Estwing hammers as they transfer too much vibration which inflames my damaged wrist tendons. If a hammer "rings" on impact, it's way too vibratory to be safely used. Yet they're not as bad as some others. Tubular steel cored handles (i.e. Stanley & others) are worst of all for me. Wooden handles by contrast absorb the most damaging vibes: I can use a 19oz 17" Vaughan California Framer or S2 (my personal favourite) all day without significant discomfort. A steel cored hammer, by contrast will leave me in nocturnal agony for several days afterwards. Douglas framers (strangely enough also produced by Vaughan) are highly regarded in the USA, but I've never personally made their acquaintance.
https://www.google.com.au/imgres?img...act=mrc&uact=8Sycophant to nobody!
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8th February 2018, 05:14 PM #43
Well, there you go. I had never seen or even heard of a waffle face hammer before today.
I have to get out more.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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9th February 2018, 05:27 AM #44SENIOR MEMBER
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- Dec 2011
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- SC, USA
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Shame you can't get them down under....
It's only been the last 3 or 4 years that GOOD wooden handle hammers have been making a comeback... 10 years ago, every "good" hammer in USA stores was steel or fiberglass handled... The wood handle hammers were the cheapies....
My favorite framing hammer of all time is my Eastwing wooden handle framing hammer... They got everything right! All the weight is in the head - not the handle.. Wood is correctly shaped for the hand... Doesn't ruin your wrist/hand with shock... And a properly forged Made in USA head...
Perhaps it's worth mail ordering...
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9th February 2018, 06:19 AM #45
And if you do get out more ) you might find other such beautys as the "latthammer" the standard claw type hammer in central europe. They have a square "waffle" face, a magnetic nail holder and one side of their claw is extended into an enormous spike.
When I first saw them I knew I had to have one and bought a "traditional" Stanley Fatmax version (steel handle), but they come with all types of handles, all ranges of quality and all ranges of price, just like here.
Regards
SWK
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