Thread: Wooden handplanes

G'day Bob,

I can't answer your question, but I bet Derek Cohen can.

Are you able to post some pics of them?

To a layman like me, it sounds like you've got a good score.

I too reckon that Mr Cohen is your man. The marker is most certainly top hole - well done.

Originally Posted by craigb

G'day Bob,

I can't answer your question, but I bet Derek Cohen can.

Are you able to post some pics of them?

To a layman like me, it sounds like you've got a good score.

Craigb
I wish I could post some pics but that technology is not available to me yet. I'm still using my Praktica SLR and its very difficult to push the prints into the floppy drive.
On a more serious note I'm sure your right, Derek Cohen would know these planes and also Bob Smalser would have info as well. They seem to be the gurus but there are probably others that contribute that are wise in the way of wooden planes.
Regards
Bob

Bob

The longer plane sounds like a foreplane while the smaller one is a coffin smoother. Mathieson is a well-known maker of planes from the mid-1800s onward.

Generally wooden planes are easy enough to renovate. You firstly need to lap the sole flat. You can do this by clamping the plane upside down and careful use of a plane or scaper to flatten it. Or lap it on sandpaper from 80 through 360 grit.

Do all this with the blade and wedge in plane (to maintain tensions) but with the blade lifted out of harm's way.

By lapping the sole you will inevitably open the mouth (if this is not already quite wide), and you will need to close it again (unless you want to thick shavings). The way to do this is to recess a piece of hardwood into the mouth area. It is hard to describe this. I have attached a picture below. If the mouth has not been widened much, it is only possible to close it up by placing a shim under the blade (a piece of veneer, or chamois leather).

Check to see that the side of the plane is not cracked where the wedge sits. This is not uncommon and will need to be glued.

The blades for these planes are typically tapered and laminated. This is another reason why the mouths open: the blades become thinner as they are sharpened. Sharpen the blade as you would any other. They are usually excellent steel.

The best advise I can give regarding setting the planes is to visit the HNT Gordon website: http://www.hntgordon.com.au/

I hope this all makes sense.

Regards from Perth

Derek

bob W;

I had exactly the same experience about 2 weeks ago. A colleague of mine turned up at work with the first plane you mention. It's a jack plane, made of beech, open tote, marked A. Mathieson & Son Glasgow on the nose "warranted superior" or something or rather as well. Blade/iron was "WARD; Sheffield" but chipbreaker was a mathieson with a brass threaded insert.

They're very common, so you shouldn't be worried about fettling one to use. Easiest way to flatten is to use another jack or smoother set to a very fine cut. Wax & buff the sole. You'll notice the two grades of steel laminated together as you sharpen it, no doubt "hand forged".

From memory A. Mathieson & Son became Sons sometime in the late 1800s as there is an 1899 catalogue using Sons. Before 185x? it was Alex Mathieson. The firm went bust in the 1960s I think.

derek & zitan

Thank you both for this info.and thanks for the piccys derek.I will be looking at both planes next weekend and may make a start on the rehab then as well
They both look and feel like quality gear so i can't wait to try them out.
Once again thanks for your prompt replies and assistance.

Regards
Bob

Derek,

Cutting that mortise wouldnt be an easy task, especially to the accuracy required for a plan sole. Is there some special way, or do you just grab a 1/4 inch chisel and start whittling away..............

Cut the timber patch and trace its dimensions onto the sole with a sharp marking knife.

The easiest way to chisel out the mortice for patch is to use a router (in the same way you would do so for a hinge mortice). Or chisel it out carefully. Either clean it up with a chisel or a #71 router plane. Use an epoxy resin and leave the patch slightly proud of the sole. Then plane it flush.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I was able to spend some time this weekend on the two planes. Got to flatten the sole of both using a #4 smoother and constantly checking for square, then finished with a hand scrapper. Finally attacked the blades, after a clean up with a wire wheel and wet & dry, I reground the edge to approx 30deg then honed to approx 35deg on the oil stone.

Derek,
As I was not sure just how wide the mouth should be, I used a piece of laminate as a spacer behind the blade, as you suggested. This certainly allows nice fine shavings and as you stated it is good quality steel in the blade.

That is all I had time to do. Still have to clean up the bodies without removing the brand stamp so guess the best way would be with steel wool. Any suggestions on other methods would be appreciated also what finish should be used?

Regards
Bob