Thread: wooden hollows and rounds

Another souce would be Jim Bode Tools (I've never bothered with learning how to do links) but last time I looked at his site he had a number of harlequin sets

Neil

Originally Posted by brontehls

Another souce would be Jim Bode Tools (I've never bothered with learning how to do links) but last time I looked at his site he had a number of harlequin sets

Neil

You search copy and paste in google......


This site seems a bit pricy. Nice stuff though.


mic-d, have you tried any of the North American forums? You really need someone that's used them and you're more likely to find them closer to the retail outlet.

For that price I wouldn't expect the QC to be that good but some of the cheap stuff is not toooo bad. Those Aldi jack-planes were fun....well mine was fun, some of the others were just funny.

Thanks guys. I looked on Jim's site but couldn't find any sets
I found a positive review on what I think are the same planes here. They sound promising.

I covet these, but the price is a little above my budget.

Then there are these, also above my budget.

Haven't asked on the US forums, that's a good idea, but I am not a member of any.

You could also go the DIY route.....
Lie-Nielsen Toolworks Australia | Tapered Molding Plane Iron Blanks

Nearly $50 a pair though, does make the set of 12 for USD$250 look like a real bargain.

Originally Posted by seanz

You could also go the DIY route.....
Lie-Nielsen Toolworks Australia | Tapered Molding Plane Iron Blanks

Nearly $50 a pair though, does make the set of 12 for USD$250 look like a real bargain.

Sure does make it look like a bargain. The steel is annealed too, so there's also hardening to consider...

+1 to the DIY set if you have the time.
I cheated and got some from HNT Gordon. I love them and find that the Snipe Bills and Side Snipes are very useful with the H&Rs.
My biggest problem is finding the time to keep building the skill set and projects.
One day....
All the best
Kevin

Originally Posted by mic-d

I covet these, but the price is a little above my budget.
Then there are these, also above my budget.

Ha Mick, I covet these but they are above my budget. Isn't that always the way?

Stu has a set of mixed hollow and a set of mixed rounds about 1/3 down the page, and a nice looking full set about 3/4 down the page:
Old Tools and Stanley Tools
I've been keeping an eye on that full set but they are above my budget.

Hans Brunner had a set listed not long ago but it's not there now. I guess it's sold.
I used to watch one he had several years ago, but it was above my budget at the time. Tempted, tempted, tempted, no sale. Darn it I wish I had succumbed back then.

If you just need a couple of matched pair for the project, maybe ring Stu or Hans and see whether they have what you need right now? I think it's best to have matched H/R pairs but the whole set doesn't really have to be the same maker, fully matched, does it? As long as the individual pairs go together and you have a whole size range. Which is easy for me to say, as I work hard at saving for a fully matched set, but then, I'm in no hurry ;-)

Mic-d

Kevjed beat me to punch in mentioning Terry Gordon's planes. I have a strong feeling he will make a plane to your specifications even if it doesn't exist in his catalogue. Having bought two of his planes in the last year I am a total convert. They are superb.

Not knowing exactly what your project is, it is hard to really make suggestions and although the "cheapies" come from Lee Valley, I can't see them as being serious. Possibly ok if you are looking at a one-off, but if you are deeply entrenched in woodworking as I suspect you are, I think you will ultimately be disappointed.

If you are like me, money is always a consideration and a set of twelve for the price of one of Terry's planes is a terrible temptation. I'd rather have one of terry's planes.

No, that's not true, I would rather have twelve of Terry's planes.

Regards
Paul

Thanks fellas. I had a look at Stu's set and the price doesn't look too bad, but the large round(?) looked like the iron is getting short. I think you are right about p'raps just getting a few to do the current project and I might give Terry a call tomorrow to discuss what will be needed. Thanks for all the help fellas, I appreciate it.

MIC-D,
I have 2 sets of these H&R's and was surprised how nicely they cut. The blades while a bit rough do take a decent edge. My only criticism is that they are a bit shorter than I would like, especially the smallest size. Makes it tiring to use them for any length of time.
larry

imo they tend to be a rarely used thing. Don't really use all the shapes and they arn't that straight forward to use. so I wouldn't spend a lot of money on them.

I'd just ebay them if I was you..relap the planes(with the blades in till blades are getting lapped) then sharpen the blades to the lapping marks. .sharpenings the issue not so much the type of plane imo. I've got half a dozern like that. $30 - 50 tops. And they all do a good job when needed.

I did try Terry Gordons planes at the Brisbane show on the weekend and like them, but what I really liked was his shooting plane setup, if you haven't already got. Was 'that' close to buying one. Great finish with bang on accuracy. should be permanently setup somewhere on a bench at all times.

Originally Posted by apricotripper

imo they tend to be a rarely used thing. Don't really use all the shapes and they arn't that straight forward to use. so I wouldn't spend a lot of money on them.

I'd just ebay them if I was you..relap the planes(with the blades in till blades are getting lapped) then sharpen the blades to the lapping marks. .sharpenings the issue not so much the type of plane imo. I've got half a dozern like that. $30 - 50 tops. And they all do a good job when needed.

I did try Terry Gordons planes at the Brisbane show on the weekend and like them, but what I really liked was his shooting plane setup, if you haven't already got. Was 'that' close to buying one. Great finish with bang on accuracy. should be permanently setup somewhere on a bench at all times.

wish I wasn't crook over the weekend and could have come along to the show and talked to the man. How do you lap the planes Jake? Do you make up a moulding for each size and glue sandpaper to it?

Originally Posted by mic-d

wish I wasn't crook over the weekend and could have come along to the show and talked to the man. How do you lap the planes Jake? Do you make up a moulding for each size and glue sandpaper to it?

I've got A way. not necessarily the best way. just a way of doing it that maybe be bettered in some way. (and you probably already got your own way anyway eh)

probably best to have some kind of negitive form like you say to lap on.....but I'd just use what you have and apply sandpaper too.

I just set the blade with the wedge and check that its tight on the bed near the bevel (so its not going to have chatter problems.) most don't.

then I set the blade so you can see all of the blade peaking out of the mouth when looking down the bodies profile. ( want to reshape the blade, and the old shape, from old sharpening attempts or whathaveyou may have the profile of the blade sinking into the body. and it won't cut if its doing that so have to get it all sticking out so you can reshape.)

then lap.....back to front (so the blade doesn't dig into the grit)

For a hollow I just lap on grit applied to a flat surface....just by uniform controled straight strokes....roll it over a touch for the next stroke...get a lot of small flats going...but after each stroke it will start to reveal the problem spots (and for these wooden planes its generally at the mouth...protruding the body)....and you just keep going on lapping (with uniform strokes and rolling the body) until the scratch marks reach all along and you've got a flat sole (uno like lapping a normal plane)....then to get the little flats out, I just clamp the plane in the vise and use a hard backed cloth sandpaper rolled over the sole tight with one hand each side, and make a couple of unform strokes along the plane body. <- not that it be recommended but it works for me.

then take the blade out and along the edge of the blade edge your'll have a flat that represents the sole of your newly lapped hollow. ....take it to the grinder and grind it freehand to just take out that flat simultaneously, then buff sharp. fiddly but with plenty of light and practise its easy. And you can't avoid sharpening them anyway, so its something that can't be avoided.

the round can be lapped with different diameters of dowel with sandpaper glued on....spray adhesive or something like that , that drys quick.

I think I might have written all this #### before sometimes.

it seems too short for such a long reply, but... Thanks!