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6th October 2016, 02:17 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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10" table saw blade with 5/8" arbor
I like my tablesaw. It's a 10" carbatec contractor saw with a aftermarket fence and a digital readout. The current blade is ATB ground with medium no of teeth(40?). It rips OK but it has some tear outs on cross cuts. The tear outs become more noticeable when I use my single blade box making jig.
20161006_135306.jpg
So I'm in the market for a better blade.
From my research, the 4 in 1 combination ground blade could be what I'm after, particularly the Freud ATB Combination blade.
What are the recommendations of the crowd?
I use the table saw for cross cut and ripping of softwood and hardwood, MDF or melamine.
I also use it for cutting box joints and tenons.
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6th October 2016 02:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th October 2016, 03:26 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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I use the Freud p410t ( https://www.amazon.com/Freud-P410T-1...0036CANUQ?th=1 ) which is also an excellent general purpose blade which provides smooth joint quality cuts. I also use the same timbers. But be careful here. The blade that I use and the one you're interested are thin kerf. If your riving knife or splitter is too big you'll get binding and possible kick back. So check your riving knife is not too big otherwise you'll have to get or make another thinner one. I had someone make one for me and for low powered table saws, thin kerf blades are great. Less dust, easier on the motor and smoother cuts. So to answer your question, either the blade you found or mine would make a great choice for a combo blade.
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6th October 2016, 03:52 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Good point. The thickness of the riving knife is 2.25mm and the saw blade in question is 2.31mm. So it is touch and go. I might go for a Diablo which has a slightly thicker kerf at 2.5mm but I like the Freud more though.
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7th October 2016, 01:51 AM #4
personally I'd get two blades
one dedicated to ripping with 32 or 24 teeth
one for cross cutting with 60 or 80 teeth -- possibly optional if you're generally happy with your existing combo blade
so the second blade would have a grind designed to produce flat bottomed kerfs for box joints -- I'm not sure how this grind is describedregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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7th October 2016, 07:45 AM #5Senior Member
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I use a Forrest Woodworker II with alternate bevel and raker....to create square bottomed cuts. Cuts cleanly in both cross cut and rip when used with zero clearance insert.
in fact I was so impressed with this blade that got a second one so that when one is out to be sharpened still got another!!!
cheers
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8th October 2016, 06:48 AM #6Senior Member
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If you are using melamine or veneered mdf, especially if using regularly, go invest in the CMT melamine blade. You'll get results similar to a panel saw with a scriber! You simply will not get acceptable results on melamine with a 'one blade fits all' setup. It also makes for a great cross cut blade in solid timber. It does however have a very aggressive V to the teeth, so about as far away from a flat bottom cut as you'll get.
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8th October 2016, 07:23 AM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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