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  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Auckland, New Zealand
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    997

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shines View Post
    Hi all,

    I have now had the machine home in my workshop for a few weekends, and after cleaning up most of the rusty surfaces it's looking the business.

    Some photos of the original machine condition. Obviously was just set up in the store for the display, then they let it rust.
    Attachment 527994 Attachment 527995

    But with a bit of elbow-grease, Evaporust and some scotchbrite on the random orbit sander, got it looking pretty good I think:
    Attachment 527996 Attachment 527997 Attachment 527998

    Still a few rusty bolts and bits on it, but I will progressively pull them off and clean them up in an Evaporust bath. That stuff is amazing. Top tip for anyone wanting to treat a large surface area; I used those blue shop towels dipped into a bucket of Evaporust carefully laid out on the table surface. I made sure to squeeze out all the air bubbles (this is essential as any dry spots will kind of etch the material), then put cling wrap over the top to prevent drying out. Squeezed out bubbles again, and left overnight. Next day, peeled off, wiped down and gently scrubbed with kitchen scourer with clean water. Gave it a quick hit with an extra fine rectangular scourer pad stuck to the bottom of my ROS and it looked like brand new. Many, many wipes down with oil and grease remover before hitting it with Silbergleit (Silverglide), and its ready to work.

    Having heaps of fun with it. It's really a step above any machinery I have used before. There's so much fine adjustment on it, and I bought a little machinists square to check setup of the fences and I have it running great. Basically everything needed squaring up, so it was a bit of a process, but a process that got me quite familiar with all parts of the machine.

    I have put myself to work creating custom hangers for the fences and accessories but that's a work in progress for now.
    Attachment 527999

    Stupidly I forgot to take a photo with the items actually hanging in there. That will come later when I have worked out how to hang up some of the more oddly shaped ones.

    Cheers,
    -Scott
    wow, that machine looked like it has never been used! no scratches at all...

    you will love it. a good combi is very capable of many things.
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
    Age
    69
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    3,925

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    Yeah, the outrigger table can be a pain. I am constantly shoving my 2m slider one way or the other to move around my shop.

    What kind of fixing does SCM use to attach things to the slider?

    Greg
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    1,806

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Q View Post
    Yeah, the outrigger table can be a pain. I am constantly shoving my 2m slider one way or the other to move around my shop.

    Greg
    This is me as well, well not so much the sliders fault the length is ok its the outrigger and 1100 crosscut fence that pokes me where i dont like it


    Awesome looking Machine those cast iron tops have come up a treat! happy combo machine days!

    Cheers,
    Nathan

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    The Gap, QLD
    Age
    40
    Posts
    48

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Q View Post
    What kind of fixing does SCM use to attach things to the slider?
    The slider has a kind of T track with a partially angled underside. The top opening is exactly 16mm, the base I haven't measured. It came with a big heavy duty post with a steel foot that tightens down into it with a clamping arm that holds the workpiece. It also came with a stop piece which is a big folded steel thing you wedge a panel under.

    I bought a couple of the larger sized Carbatec T-Track hold down clamps which fit nicely once I did a little bit of filing so they would fit the angled profile inside the T Track.

    -Scott

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    The Gap, QLD
    Age
    40
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    48

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    Quote Originally Posted by Albert View Post
    wow, that machine looked like it has never been used!
    Although the rust made it look a bit shabby, the machine was actually never used. Was a display model, then held in a fellow woodworkers shed under a bunch of other stuff for almost a year. A great find. Not a spec of sawdust anywhere on it when I got it home. Didn't even have a blade mounted.

    -Scott

  7. #36
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    Jul 2003
    Location
    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
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    Sounds like that horizontal post is a butt bar which you use as a handle for the slider. That other thing is what Felder calls a ripping shoe and is a handy source of 4mm steel for small welding projects.

    A pair of hold down clamps is more useful for ripping rough stock, not that I ever have. My rough sawn timber milling sequence is: plane, joint one edge, thickness, rip to width. Sometimes the bandsaw gets a run too.

    Greg
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  8. #37
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    Jul 2003
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    Something else I meant to write…

    Treat yourself to a couple of good saw blades. I bought Leuco which I like, but there are others* I am guessing that the saw has a 30mm arbor? If that’s the case then you won’t likely find typical hobbyist blades in that size anyway.

    I only have a rip blade and an 80 tooth, so I can’t comment on combination blades.

    * AKE, Gudho, Leitz. The American guys on the Felder group seem to favour Tenryu which are available on Amazon. It is obvious of course, except to me the first time: make sure to match the stated kerf with your riving knife thickness.
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

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