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  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,034

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    Having never owned a panel saw I can't help you with answers from practical experience. There are plenty of members on here who can though and if you do a bit of a search you'll find thread's/post's from members extolling the virtues of their particular saw. The ability of a panel saw to handle larger sheet materials while maintaining absolute accuracy is unsurpassed. The thread started by Chris Parks even gives you the handle of a member who owns that particular saw, it's quite a recent thread.

    I would imagine that ripping longer narrow boards would still be done on the right hand side of the blade, ie. not using the sliding table? Hopefully a few experienced members will chip in with their expertise.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,166

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    And @Kuffy from here has a slider and shows it off quite often on YT, for example here's a recent one that he shows doing lots of crosscut action and how the panel saw allows him to do these moves easily https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jV6LNzefHyg (I know you mentioned ripping long stuff, but this is all I could reasonably find)

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

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    Quote Originally Posted by poundy View Post
    and how the panel saw allows him to do these moves easily
    Easily hey? Tomorrows video will likely have some crosscutting action. The camera is moving all over the place, because I am holding the GoPro with my right hand and controlling the work piece with only my left hand. Yep, it's that easy. Safe as houses too, even one handed. you can actually do it with the pressure from one finger.

    If you want to rip long boards, ignore the crosscut fence and use the ripping fence. If the crosscut fence gets in the way. remove it. without the crosscut getting in the way, you have a table with a saw sticking up out of it just like a tablesaw so the ripping length is infinite..until you hit the walls You can lock the slider so it no longer slides. A longer stroke on the panel saw is beneficial to me. Mine has a 2500mm stroke so I can rip full sheets of garbage. However I rarely do this which allows me to keep the outrigger pushed all the way forwards while having the cross cut fence set to the back of the outrigger. Doing this effectively limits the ripping stroke to ~2000mm. That's fine because when I need to break up a sheet of garbage, I simply head cut it first which reduces the length of the sheet to less than 2000mm. With dining tables I don't bother ripping the edges after glue up. But I will cross cut the ends, and I'm yet to make a square/rectangle dining table wider than 2000mm

  5. #34
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    997

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    Give your wife the $6000. tell her you were thinking of building up your shed, but decided she needed the 6k more than you do.

    you might get 10k back!!!

    Anyhow, if I am in market today I will still do what I did when I started, a Carbatec/Harvey generic MJ2325 table saw, a JP combo and a CHEAP dusty, try spend all money on minimum amount of machines you can get, you gotta start from somewhere. you gotta wear mask all the time even though you dont see dust.

    I started with a mitre saw that cost about the same as a Big Mac combo 10 years ago. looking back I have probably spent between $150,000-$200,000 since then.
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



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