Thread: Bad things about table saw sliding table extension

There are only two real downsides IMO.

1) Cost
2) Space requirements.

If you can justify both then go for it, just think of it like a sled, they're incredibly handy to have.

What are you milling down?

As the benefit I see with a sliding table is the ability to mill sheet goods down safely, however you'll need >2m on the sliding table side in order to effectively break down sheet goods, not sure about your space requirements but for me that was the deal breaker. Ended up with a track saw and have no regrets.

Hi Damienol,
I have been using sliding panel saws for around 10 years due to the improved safety relative to cabinet saws. My current machine is a MiniMax SC-2 that is a joy to use so when my local woodgroup decided to buy a Harvey I said the slider addition was essential. In setting up the machine I can say the Harvey slider is a very poor copy of my MiniMax and in addition to requiring a 150mm cut from one of the rails the slider will require us to engineer quite a bit of additional mods to make it fully suitable. It is also compromised by the left tilting action of the blade and not having any material clamping on the slider. Whilst the cabinet saw itself may be fine I would recommend you check out some of the more industrial sliders before you proceed. The other key point is the market is awash with very good second hand panel saws at lower prices than the new Harvey but they are usually larger machines that need more space. In this regard my SC-2 is just the right size for a small workshop.
Cheers,
Paintman

Thanks Paintman.

Do you have any pointers to the industrial sliders you reference in your post. I cant fit a panel saw so will need to explore the addition to my Harvey.

In my searches the best slider I have been able to find is the Harvey. Your review has put me off this purchase.

Hi Damienol,
The key point in all cases is what do you want to do with the machine? In my case I require a compact slider (due to space) and one that is robust and of a size that I can breakdown lager timber pieces for furniture and at the same time have accuracy and easy adjustments for my main woodworking which is boxmaking. In both cases my Minimax SC-2 and my former CU-300 did both with ease. I do like to be able to clamp material onto the slider both for standard horizontal cutting and vertical cutting using an additional support frame especially when making raised panel inserts. In setting up the Harvey the slider is a much smaller unit and does not have the outrigger support of the more industrial machines. I know I am comparing units that are not equal in terms of price. I think we can engineer some home made clamps and other improvements to the Harvey that will improve the slider so that it will suffice for smaller cutting applications such as toymaking. I can not comment on other small sliders from personal use but I have seen many that are similar to the Harvey. I would very much suggest you look at the Minimax and several other industrial units to see how the sliders work relative to the add on Harvey type slider. In terms of space the Minimax slider frame can easily be removed and refitted without loss of settings and stored until required. Whilst I have not done so I do intend to fit some wheels so I can move the SC-2 when long pieces such as slabs are used. My biggest point about sliders is the better safety due to the fact you are able to work to the left away from the blade and any offcuts are not likely to come back at the operator. Finally in cutting smaller pieces the Harvey slider frame sits back from the blade due to the left tilting function of the saw whilst mine has zero clearance due to the blade having a right hand tilt. I did a fair bit of research before I bought the SC-2 and as I was downsizing in addition to the above needs only having 6x7.2m workshop did focus my attention on size as well as quality. I looked at Altendorf,Felder and Leeda but chose the SC-2 on price and quality.
Cheers,
Paintamn

Thanks again Paintman.

On review of the sliders you have listed it would appear that I have not been clear about my requirements.

I am not looking to replace my table saw with a full blown sliding table but rather extend the functionality of my existing table saw by adding a slider attachment.

A new table is not an option either financially or space wise

Originally Posted by Damienol

Thanks again Paintman.

On review of the sliders you have listed it would appear that I have not been clear about my requirements.

I am not looking to replace my table saw with a full blown sliding table but rather extend the functionality of my existing table saw by adding a slider attachment.

A new table is not an option either financially or space wise

bad thing about sliding table extension?
space and accuracy.

if you need a sliding table, you obviously has the need to do a lot of cutting, hence the slider is required? if you do a lot of cutting then you would want repeatability and reliability of the slider to stay true.

in your case, if new saw is not feasible due to space and finance, then you may have to fabricate your own.

but if space is an issue, then why do you want to add a slider?

Hi Albert,

The main reason I want a slider extension is to be able to cross cut a full sheet of ply. I am a hobbyist so volume of cuts is not very high.

Looking at the dimensions of the Harvey and now the Jessem they don't look to take up much more space then the setup I already have.

Years ago, I looked at a slider for my current table saw (carbatec), very happy with it.
I considered the space it requires (slider) and the hassle for me to get the sheets to the table saw.
That's when I did the regrettable, I purchased a Festool track saw.

To me it solved all my dilemmas. I don't do bulk sheet work, gets stored away when not in use, and hooked up to a Festool vac, leaves my small shop clean.
So... track saw, dusty, pair of stools done deal... except the ongoing green purchases

A European style small sliding TS does not take up any more room than a cabinet saw, in fact less if it is installed correctly, sounds strange doesn't it? if you are using it or a cabinet saw to cut full size 2400 x 1800 sheets both saws need the same outfeed and infeed length to do the job. The outrigger can be removed from the saw when not in use and in fact my small slider takes up way less room than the cabinet saw it replaced because it does not have any fixed extension tables fitted to it. I have seen photos of a small Minimax slider set up in a 6 x 6 meter workshop with the cast iron table hard against a wall as all the ripping operations can be done on the sliding table and the ripping side of the saw does not get used frequently at all. I hardly use the ripping side of mine at all as a matter of fact and could have done the same except I didn't have the experience with the saw to know it at the time.

Chris,

Sorry but I can't agree with you entirely about ripping solid wood on a sliding panel saw. I have two (both Minimax) plus a Sawstop on which I do all of my solid ripping. Reason? The sliding table on all panel saws is slightly higher than the cast beds to the right of the blade. That design feature allows the saw to cut panels without binding.

The result of that is ripping boards on the right side of the blade on a panel saw is FRACTIONALLY out of square. Not enough to cause concern with sheet goods work, but if you want to rip and glue boards straight off the saw the table saw is, in MHO, a better option.

Sure, if your board doesn't rest on the slider, the above does not apply.

That is not to say that my panel saws do not do the lion's share of work in the shed. Crossing cutting anything to mm perfect at 90 or 45 degrees is a given. (I won't go into the merits of a scribing blade!).

You are correct when you say that space requirements are around the same for both panel and table saws when cutting panels.

In fact, I bought the wider rails for my Sawstop and have lost a valuable metre of space on the right side of the saw, as I have rarely ripped anything 1200mm wide. For the odd occasion when needed, I can and do simply run a circ saw along a straight edge for the same result. The longer rails on my smaller Jet TS need a visit to the metal drop saw as well. (I only use this machine with a dado head.)

I would advise against adding a sliding table add-on to any table saw. I could have bought one for my Sawstop (which is a nice piece of kit build-wise). Problem is that TS add-ons in most cases do not run the slider close to the blade. Think drag, friction etc here and poor accuracy. In the end, like an earlier poster, I went for the SCM2 baby
PS with scribing blade adjustment done outside of the saw and tool free. It is my go-to saw now for just about everything except solid timber ripping. That said, I still break 2400 by 1200 panels down on my old CU 300 Smart combo.

My advise would therefore be to either get a decent PS or just cross-cut boards on a table sled or even cheaper, on a drop saw with stop. Sure, not as convenient as a PS but much cheaper. For anyone thinking of working with sheet goods, go for a panel saw every day of the week.

Just my experience and always listening for better ways of doing things. At the moment, I am making a bulk lot of 75mm square boxes bevelled at 45 degrees with lift off lids. Which saw? Mostly the baby Minimax.

Jeff Leslie wrote:

I would advise against adding a sliding table add-on to any table saw. I could have bought one for my Sawstop (which is a nice piece of kit build-wise). Problem is that TS add-ons in most cases do not run the slider close to the blade. Think drag, friction etc here and poor accuracy. In the end, like an earlier poster, I went for the SCM2 baby

Jeff, I cannot agree with you. Many of us would love to own a single SMC2, never mind two of them and a Sawstop. The reality is that we either made do with lesser machines, or we hotrod them as best as we can. There are a number of add-on sliding tables (such as the Excalibur) that will do a perfectly satisfactory job.Perhaps not to the standard of the SMC2, but entirely good enough.

I have been using a Carbatec 12" contractor tablesaw with sliding table for 20 years. It is the bolt-on variety, although it came with the saw.



It does not get the blade against the table, but it gets it close enough that crosscuts are wonderfully clean and easy. It is not remotely in the same class as a SMC2, however the crosscuts are pinpoint accurate.

I would love to purchase a Hammer, but the reality is that the Sawstop is possibly the top of my price range, and if I go lower, it would be a Harvey. Given that I love the slider on the Carbatec, I would keep it and fit it to the Sawstop/Harvey. Still not as good as a Hammer or Minimax, but I would not care.

Incidentally, there is a basic version of my saw for sale on this forum (mine is upgraded with a bigger motor, better fence and a complete slider).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Nice pic Derek, it really shows the gap between the fence on the slider on the cast table to the left of the blade. Not ideal IMHO as you would have to have some occasions where your timber sat higher on the slider then lower on the cast table. Does that make sense? Also, does your TS tilt left? If so, again not ideal as your good piece would be jammed between the blade and the stop when you do a 45 degree cut.

All that said, you probably shoot the boards anyway to get perfect accuracy anyway.

Lots of machines in your workshop too, not what I was expecting!

Hi Jeff

The slider has a cast iron table, with steel rails. It runs on roller bearings. Very heavy and smooth.

The sliding table is at the exact same height as the saw table. The blade is right tilt - away from the slider.

Buying a slider accessory like this is less likely today, which is why it is worth holding onto. Current accessories look light weight in comparison.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,
it does seem like your set up works just fine and if it meets all of your needs that is great. In particular the stronger construction compared to most retro fitted units available today.
As I have previously mentioned the safety aspect of sliders where you stand to the left away from the blade does avoid unexpected events such as offcuts catching the saw blade and coming back at the operator. In this regard the one issue I had to resolve with the Minimax was to fit a second start& stop button on the left hand side of the machine in order to avoid being caught by offcuts when bending down switching off from the original switch. I was advised this is a common modification by many users. In regard to comments by Chris on the 1mm height difference on the slider frame to the table top this has not been an issue for me as 99% of my cutting is done on the slider frame often using a secondary right angle support to the frame to ensure longer boards remain parallel to the blade throughout the length of the cut. I also have an additional clamping unit to make sure the boards are held at both ends.
On my previous CU-300 machine when using the spindle moulder function with the slider in a fixed position I used a piece of Fomica to cover part of the table to get an exact height match.
Cheers,
PaintmanMiniMax SC-2.JPG