Results 46 to 60 of 62
-
22nd August 2017, 08:30 PM #46
Thanks for the picture, Chris. I will wait to hear what you find with the noise before ordering a blade.
The two ZCIs I received are a polycarbonate-type material. They bolt on using the existing screws, and then the saw is lifted through. The original plate (non-ZCI) is aluminium, I think.
With regard the "handworker's mafia", I am pretty safe. The notion of hand tool-only woodworkers is more of a myth. Yes, there are some, but I bet they stick to pine and do not work with West Australian hardwood!
How did you attach your Wixey?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
22nd August 2017 08:30 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
22nd August 2017, 08:51 PM #47GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,696
The Brackets. (800 x 533).jpg
Two of these brackets, the stiffener is a bit of 10mm aluminium plate cut on the bandsaw and drilled and tapped for the fasteners. I will have to do the noise test tomorrow now unfortunately.CHRIS
-
23rd August 2017, 01:04 AM #48
Chris, here are the zero clearance inserts I received. One is reversed to show the underside. The standard insert (non-zero) is the same material.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
23rd August 2017, 02:31 PM #49GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,696
They appear to be the same as supplied to me for the dado set up which I have never used, BTW the Dado stack supplied by Felder was about $1000 which caused an instant slamming shut of the wallet though others do supply a cheaper alternative.
These are my noise findings using a bit of Jarrah during the cuts....
12" WW2 42 tooth: No cutting = 88db, cutting = 93db
10" Felder 40 tooth: No cutting = 88db, cutting = 92db
12" Felder "Silent Power" 24 tooth rip blade: No cutting = 87db, cutting = 92db
The only comment I have is the Silent Power blade appeared to have a different pitch which made it seem a lot more quite than the results seemed to show. The meter was sitting on the rip fence head and not moved during the tests. I doubt buying a 10" blade that has to be imported is cost effective in the long run. I can send you a WW2 (newly sharpened and not used since) that you can try. It was sharpened by Henry Bros not Forrest as there is no way I am sending a blade back to the US simply for sharpening even if they recommend I should. I have a few others I could possibly throw in as well if you want.CHRIS
-
23rd August 2017, 03:41 PM #50
Thanks for this Chris. The noise levels appear the same. Frankly it is irrelevant anyway since the noise level will increase with cutting, and all this is drowned out by the dust collection! And we wear ear protection. My concerns about noise - one of the drivers behind upgrading equipment over the years - has been the noise that escapes the workshop and heard by family and neighbours.
I think I am just going to go ahead and order a 12" 40-tooth (42-tooth?) WWII blade.
Regards from Perh
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
23rd August 2017, 08:36 PM #51
Derek, could you share what you paid for your saw? I was all set to buy a Sawstop in the next three months or so, but man, that Hammer and the sliding table operation has got me smitten. I've not been able to easily find pricing however.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
23rd August 2017, 09:28 PM #52
The Sawstop is a beautiful saw. It's build quality is second-to-none. It is like a large jewel. I came very close to signing on the line. The costs of the Sawstop Professional with 36" T-Glide and the slider attachment are pretty comparable with the Hammer K3 Basic (31"x31").
Two factors decided me on the Hammer: the first was that the footprint of the Sawstop was enormous. There is a problem with the Sawstop if you aim to add the slider - it attaches very far from the blade (about 18") and, if you wish to remove the left-side cast iron wing to bring it closer (to about 8"), then the bracket for the fence has to be sawn shorter. Crazy. And then, if you wish to make the right side wing shorter, you have to do the same there as well! The Sawstop is an enormously wide saw in 36" fence mode. Can you imagine what it is like in the 52" mode?! The Hammer has a 31 1/2" width (usable length of the fence), which is not significantly less than the Sawstop, yet in a package that is half as large.
The second factor is that the two saws are a different concept. They work with a different philosophy. My thought going into the Perth Wood Show, where I was able to examine the saws, was that the K3 would be better for panels, while the Sawstop would be ideal for crosscutting, since this was my experience in the 20 years of my old saw. I came away recognising that it was the other way around. So at this point I wanted a Hammer K3.
This is a long way around to answer your question ... because I did not get the K3 Basic. There wasn't one in the country. There was a K3 Winner in Sydney that was a system "up" - longer 48" (1250mm) slider rather than the 31"/850mm of the Basic, and "cast iron" professional fence rather than the aluminium of the Basic. The price goes up with each step.
Then Felder/Hammer charge for extras (as do Sawstop). There is a range of accessories that are really necessities. The price is artificially lower. I was quoted without GST - later this was added. I went gulp, but by then I was too far along the path.
What accessories? Grey extension table (the triangular one attached to the slider was $167 (all these prices are before GST); a 400mm extension for ripping (which I can use on the A3-31 as well) was $312 including the bracket; the mobility kit (without the handle, which I have for the A3-31) was $153; an Edging Shoe for the slider was $43.56; there is a fine adjuster, which I did not get as they do not have the correct one in stock, but the one for the Basic is $90. There was $420 freight from Sydney. The local guys did not charge me for delivery in Perth, and they spent at least 3 hours at my home setting up the saw (and tuning my N4400 bandsaw). They were fantastic people, and I wholeheartedly recommend them to all in Perth. I have had the very best service over the past 7 years, when I purchased the bandsaw. Oh, there was a free 12" 48-tooth combination blade (worth $185).
But, all up, it came in at about $8300. Thank goodness for a serious insurance rebate (which prompted the search) and a supportive wife. I am not going to justify the purchase. I am just going to enjoy it.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
24th August 2017, 09:19 AM #53
That was a great comprehensive response Derek. Thanks for taking the time. I've been following this thread with interest, because your revelation caused mine. I had always ignored the sliding table saws, thinking they were only useful for panel work, and a compromise elsewhere. Those video's you posted showed otherwise.
Can you provide any information around the insurance rebate? Was that from your health policy?
Regarding justification, I need to justify my work expenses. For my hobbies, it's more a matter of whether I can afford it.
-
24th August 2017, 05:57 PM #54
Hi Chris
Thank you for confirming my thoughts that the noise level between a 10" and a 12" blade is effectively negligible. You saved me the time and effort of measuring the noise levels myself. The blade on my Lazzari panel saw is 14", so by extrapolation I guess the noise level for my blade will be approximately 1db higher.Kind Regards
Peter
-
24th August 2017, 06:06 PM #55
Hi Derek
I was going to suggest zero clearance inserts Here is a link to a video showing the owner of a similar saw to yours (his zero clearance insert looks identical to those in your photo) manufacturing his own ZCIs.Kind Regards
Peter
-
26th August 2017, 11:11 AM #56New Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Location
- Brisbane Australia
- Posts
- 4
When I upgraded from Triton table to a full cabinet saw, I kept my Maxi sliding table.
Bolted a 200 deep 5 ply the length of my old Triton table, measured to distances between the fixing points and attached the fixing brackets to the ply to match the Triton table.
Works perfectly, except the scale from the blade to the sliding table.
Just worked out the difference and wrote on the sliding table, then make a quick adjustment to require measurement as needed.
Regards
John L.
-
6th September 2017, 09:32 PM #57
Here is a video of the way the smallest Hammer K3 is used for ripping and cross cutting ...
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
6th September 2017, 11:19 PM #58GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,696
Thanks Derek I learn something every time a see one of those instructional videos, you are now a sliding saw convert? I found watching the way the hive is established very interesting.
CHRIS
-
6th September 2017, 11:37 PM #59
Hi Chris
As much of a convert can be with a new saw and without much experience on it. The videos are exciting insofar as they open the yes to the possibilities of new techniques.
I will complete setting up the new saw and its accessories this weekend. Perhaps post pictures if anyone is interested.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
7th September 2017, 03:40 PM #60
Hi Derek
I think you have too much time on your hands if you can find and watch all those how to videos.
But I really like the small off cut deflector shown at 10:34regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
Similar Threads
-
Should I buy a Sliding Extension Table?
By jmk89 in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 17Last Post: 8th August 2007, 05:20 PM -
Sliding table extension
By Caliban in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 4Last Post: 17th September 2005, 11:32 AM -
Sliding Extension Table Qn
By Stitch in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 8Last Post: 28th January 2004, 01:51 AM -
Sliding Extension Table
By Peter Hinchcliffe in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 4Last Post: 13th November 2002, 09:02 AM -
sliding extension table
By Kevan in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 4Last Post: 29th September 2001, 11:58 AM