Thread: Budget Table saws

Originally Posted by ozzielee303

Hi
I will go with the Makita,I know you think it is crappy,but that is all my budget will allow,I would like a Dewalt but a bit out of my budget that I can/allowed to spend
I have looked into it alot and think I can get the Makita to go pretty good for what I need it for or other alternative is a Triton work center 2nd hand.

Cheers

If I had the confidence in myself to mod the Makita it would be my option too. But the reason I really want the table saw is so I've got a machine in my shop that I know will give me square cuts out of the box, so I've decided to wait to save up a bit more (might also be calling on my birthday and Father's Day early to help cover it as well).

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Originally Posted by derekcohen

Frankly, around the price range mentioned, I would be looking for a second hand machine. There must be good buys to be had, certainly far better machines than the ones discussed.

As a happy owner of a jobsite saw, I'd agree. The only reason to buy a jobsite saw is if you absolutely need the portability. They're designed for relatively rough work, and the tables aren't close to flat unless you're extremely lucky with the one you get. If a jobsite saw is all you can fit in your space, they do still beat sawing everything by hand, especially with a decent crosscut sled. If you're trying to make decent furniture you'll still need to keep your hand planes and shooting board handy.

Originally Posted by ozzielee303

Hi
Was hoping I could get some ideas and some thoughts on three table saws that are in my budget,well nearly.

My budget is about $750 on a fixed income(pension ) and just want to start making some outdoor tables and chairs and boxes plus pieces of timber for chopping boards and Elk horn plant backing boards.


Cheers.

I am wondering if you could use a SCMS and a DIY track saw for these projects instead of a TS.?



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Originally Posted by ozzielee303

I posted this the other day and was wanting to know if anyone has put a 260mm saw blade in their 254mm table saw?
would it be safe?

If Makita say you can put a 260 mm blade in their saw, by definition it is safe as Makita is standing behind the recommendation -- with significant legal consequences if they are wrong.

For me the bigger issue is sourcing a quality 260 mm blade.
The standard size is 10" (typically described as 254, 255 or 250 mm depending on how the conversion is rounded). There are a lot of blades this size, with teeth count and tooth grind and hook angle optimized for particular tasks -- ripping, cross cutting solid wood, particle board, melamine faced board, MDF, ply, laminates, plus combination blades, etc. I've posted elsewhere that Freud alone makes around 25 different thin kerf 10 inch saw blades
It's possible that at 260mm your options are limited to whatever Makita markets.

Also, how often will you need the greater cutting depth?
In my experience, outside of house frames, cutting anything thicker than about 50-60 mm is a very rare task.
Now, if your plan is to be regularly cutting 4 and 6 inch hardwood posts, then perhaps you should be looking at something other than a 10" table saw.

Originally Posted by dazzler

I am wondering if you could use a SCMS and a DIY track saw for these projects instead of a TS.?



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Yeah you know I was only just thinking that,after getting a email from kreg with their ads in it about the Kreg rip cut,just add circular saw and away we go

Originally Posted by ian

If Makita say you can put a 260 mm blade in their saw, by definition it is safe as Makita is standing behind the recommendation -- with significant legal consequences if they are wrong.

For me the bigger issue is sourcing a quality 260 mm blade.
The standard size is 10" (typically described as 254, 255 or 250 mm depending on how the conversion is rounded). There are a lot of blades this size, with teeth count and tooth grind and hook angle optimized for particular tasks -- ripping, cross cutting solid wood, particle board, melamine faced board, MDF, ply, laminates, plus combination blades, etc. I've posted elsewhere that Freud alone makes around 25 different thin kerf 10 inch saw blades
It's possible that at 260mm your options are limited to whatever Makita markets.

Also, how often will you need the greater cutting depth?
In my experience, outside of house frames, cutting anything thicker than about 50-60 mm is a very rare task.
Now, if your plan is to be regularly cutting 4 and 6 inch hardwood posts, then perhaps you should be looking at something other than a 10" table saw.

Hi Ian
I do not know if Makita does suggest or even recommend the 260mm saw in the mlt 100,this was just the Total Tools website saying this here Makita - 1500w 255mm Table Saw - MLT100 | Total Tools and I was just wondering if anyone has done it and is it safe,I am thinking Makita might not know about this.

You are right and I agree 99% of the time,I would never be going thicker in material than 50-60mm and if I want any bigger than that i can get it cut from a mate that is a builder who has a proper bench saw with planer and jointer on it that I can get him to cut(when he is not busy) and I'll just stick with 254mm saw blades from a good maker like you have and others suggested.

Thank you for your help,it is appreciated.

Cheers

Hi Everyone
Just ordered my Makita MLT-100 tablesaw from my local Bunnings store for $615,but they could not tell me what size arbor for saw blades it takes,so any Makita MLT-100 owners read this,please what size arbor hole do I go for in a new saw blade please?

Cheers
Ozzie

Manual lists three sizes;
European - 30mm arbor
Non European - 25mm and 25.4mm

Not very helpful.

https://www.makita.com.au/media/docu...100_manual.pdf

Originally Posted by ozzielee303

Just ordered my Makita MLT-100 tablesaw from my local Bunnings store for $615,but they could not tell me what size arbor for saw blades it takes,so any Makita MLT-100 owners read this,please what size arbor hole do I go for in a new saw blade please?

if you intend buying your extra blades from Bunnings, just wait till the saw arrives at the store, open the box and check before you go through the check-out. That way there is no error. Standard arbor sizes are 5/8", 1" and 30 mm. I don't think I have ever seen a 25mm arbor, but I know that 1" is often [erroneously] converted to 25 mm.

If buying from Melbourne (or OS) by mail just wait till you get the saw home.
the blade supplied by Makita will be good enough to get you started on your projects and to make a zero clearance insert.

Originally Posted by Lappa

Manual lists three sizes;
European - 30mm arbor
Non European - 25mm and 25.4mm

Not very helpful.

https://www.makita.com.au/media/docu...100_manual.pdf

Hi
Yeah I downloaded the manual and it is not clear on what an Aussie model would be,might ring Makita later today I think and ask what size arbor for the Australian market.
Thanks
Ozzie

Originally Posted by ian

if you intend buying your extra blades from Bunnings, just wait till the saw arrives at the store, open the box and check before you go through the check-out. That way there is no error. Standard arbor sizes are 5/8", 1" and 30 mm. I don't think I have ever seen a 25mm arbor, but I know that 1" is often [erroneously] converted to 25 mm.

If buying from Melbourne (or OS) by mail just wait till you get the saw home.
the blade supplied by Makita will be good enough to get you started on your projects and to make a zero clearance insert.

Hi Ian
I'm getting someone to pick it up for me as I will be not be able to get it myself at that time(doctors,physio appointments) and I was going to buy the Diablo blades from an online dealer,but I will ring Makita today sometime and find out for sure,will post what I find out.
Cheers
Ozzie

Well I found out that they take 25.4mm size arbor saw hole,now the hunt is on.
What do people think on these saw blades
https://www.timbecon.com.au/sawing/c...ose-saw-blades

https://www.timbecon.com.au/sawing/c...lar-saw-blades

Cheers
ozzie

Hi Ozzie

given that your immediate desires are

cutting old palings, plywood, old pallets and some timber just for some craft and small woodworking projects

you may initially wish to stay with the supplied all purpose Makita blade.

I suggest that your first aftermarket blade should be a dedicated ripping blade, and of those sold by the vendor you linked to, this would be my pick https://www.timbecon.com.au/sawing/circular-saw-blades/ripping-saw-blades with a 30mm to 1" reducing bush.

Your second after market blade might then be a replacement combination or general purpose blade, but you could put off purchasing one till the OEM Makita blade is blunt. Typically the blades supplied with a job-site saw don't have enough carbide to allow more than one, or possibly two, re-sharpenings.

just remember to purchase thin kerf blades

Hi Ozzie

You will need a few of these reducers if you are going for the 30mm W401D | Reduction Ring Sleeve | For Sale Sydney Brisbane Melbourne Perth | Buy Workshop Equipment & Machinery online at machineryhouse.com.au

My saw has a 30mm bore and I mainly use CMT blades (get a bottle of their blade cleaner while you are there ... its grousey grouse).

On a day to day basis I use a general blade .... you have just got to adjust your feed rate on thick (50mm plus).

I use my 80 tooth crosscut for finishing cross cuts only ... with that many teeth it is expensive to have resharpened. The Mitre saw gives almost as good crosscuts as the 80 tooth table saw (use a backing board and zero clearance insert on the MS though) ... but I do get the MS blades sharpened regularly.

You should find that you will be doing rip cuts mainly, and finishing off with a plane or ROS. I am yet to find a rip saw that gives a "finished"cut.

My tip is to go for a decent general use blade (around 40 teeth), and keep it clean and from resin buildup and have it resharpened regularly. A dull $120 blade cuts worse than a sharp $50 blade!!

As a luxury ... I also have a blade for melamine (96 tooth with rake teeth for square cut surface). I only use this for melamine where the edges are exposed, and for the occasional spline cut in boxes .. I have used it on ply also but as almost all of my ply is used for infill panels the edge cut is not critical.

So ... for a home shop ...
(1) get a good 40 tooth CMC or Freud, of Forrest general purpose blade ... and keep the one that it comes with as your spare for when the good quality blade goes to the sharpener, and
(2) forget a crosscut blade (80+ teeth) and use the mitre saw with zero clearance insert and backing board, and
(3) keep you blades clean and get them sharpened before they are blunt.

If you have to do melamine then tape the cut and use a 0.5mm blade height to score the cut before final full depth cutting (finished side down on the table)

Good luck ...

Regards

Rob