Thread: Cast Iron Extension Wing

Originally Posted by BobL

Why not leave the slider on and put the router wing on the other side?

Bob I wonder how effective the slider will be given that the edge of the slider is 250mm from the saw blade. It limits what I can saw I would think.

TT

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

Bob I wonder how effective the slider will be given that the edge of the slider is 250mm from the saw blade. It limits what I can saw I would think.
TT

I'm not sure, mine doesn't have a slider - Maybe Derek can chip in on this?

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

Bob I wonder how effective the slider will be given that the edge of the slider is 250mm from the saw blade. It limits what I can saw I would think.

TT

If you set up an F&F jig you should have no problems with even tiny pieces.

The "Fritz und Franz" DIY Table Saw Safety Device - Core77The "Fritz und Franz" DIY Table Saw Safety Device - Core77

Originally Posted by Bohdan

If you set up an F&F jig you should have no problems with even tiny pieces.

The "Fritz und Franz" DIY Table Saw Safety Device - Core77The "Fritz und Franz" DIY Table Saw Safety Device - Core77

Yes I saw this on another thread. It looks like they are designed for a slider that sits closer to the saw blade. 250mm may be too large a gap to manage.

TT

My first slider had a large gap and all you need to do is to extend the sides of the jig to reach the blade. With the extended jig make sure that the two pieces are wider than you would normally use to ensure that there is minimal twist and the jaws stay parallel.

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

I like the router set up Derek. Did the wing come with the router base installed? Or did you have to cut it in yourself?

TT

Bob wrote:

I'm not sure, mine doesn't have a slider - Maybe Derek can chip in on this?

The tablesaw and slider were purchased together. The slider was an accessory at the time - 20 years ago. As I mentioned earlier, it came from Carbatec, manufactured in Taiwan (when machines were still quite well done). The slider was designed specifically for this tablesaw and replaced the left hand cast iron wing. I have no idea if it is still made or whether it would fit another tablesaw. It has been reliable and accurate, and very solid. The table runs on bearings, and so is very smooth. With a set up like this, one does not need a cut off saw.

When the fence was replaced with a Biesemeyer style, also from Carbatec (the original clamped front-and-rear ... a poor design that is quite unreliable), the rails were quite a bit longer than the original and, rather than cut them down, I decided to add another wing and build a router table into it. The wing is part of an old kitchen bench top.

The router plate needed to be purchased from a USA on-line seller as they were not sold in Oz at that time (this was about 15 or 16 years ago). I remember purchasing a new GMC 2hp variable speed and slow start fixed-base router - just perfect for a router table - for $35 on special! GMC never made them again. Touch wood .. it is still going strong.

One advantage of a router table in the right wing is that it takes up little space. Another is that the router fence can be attached to the tablesaw fence, which enables it to be adjusted incrementally and also run parallel to a mitre fence. I made the fence out of aluminium box and MDF ...



I also mentioned before that the motor was upgraded to a 3hp. I don't recall if I said that Bob helped install it. Thanks again Bob!

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Bob wrote:
The tablesaw and slider were purchased together. The slider was an accessory at the time - 20 years ago. As
When the fence was replaced with a Biesemeyer style, also from Carbatec (the original clamped front-and-rear ... a poor design that is quite unreliable), the rails were quite a bit longer than the original and, rather than cut them down, I decided to add another wing and build a router table into it. The wing is part of an old kitchen bench top.

Im over thinking this I know, but the the rails were able to support the router table?

TT

TT, the rails are steel, about 2-3mm thick and stiff. They are bolted to the cast iron top of the tablesaw and cast iron wing. The router table wing is bolted between the rails. This is further reinforced with mild steel underneath ...

(old photo)



Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

TT, the rails are steel, about 2-3mm thick and stiff. They are bolted to the cast iron top of the tablesaw and cast iron wing. The router table wing is bolted between the rails. This is further reinforced with mild steel underneath ...

I see it now. I think we have the same type of fence
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But whereas you have a continuous piece of 50mm angle iron running the whole length of the fence, I have been supplied with 4 brackets. That was why I couldn't figure out how the fence could hold all the extra weight of a router table. I happen to have a 2 metre length of 50x50 so happy days for me. I like the idea of the struts to support the router extension too.



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The slider is another matter as mine runs on nylon runners not bearings. And the mitre tracks are only 1/2 inch so I think there will be a lot of flex. There are a lot of options out there though, just saw this on the Rockler site. I have a couple of sleds I use all the time so that is maybe why I haven't explored the slider table.

TT

I had this problem when I installed some Incra rails on my old saw. In the end I simply shifted the incra rails to the right, which gave me a massive ripping capacity. Makes the whole thing look a bit weird, but I never ever moved the fence to the LHS of the blade, so it was fine. I'll try to find some pics.

I can't tell you how much I loved my slider - now that I upgraded my saw I really miss it. You can use a sled for most things, but the slider was super convenient.

Trav


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just an update.

I've installed the fence now and am very pleased with it. I have a huge amount of ripping capacity to the right ( I may trim this too, but there is no hurry). It squared up well. I haven't installed the measuring tape as yet because until now I was undecided where to the position of the router.


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However I've decided to place the router on the left. I will use some of the offcut angle iron and build in a router table using the existing wings for the slider to brace it.

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If need be I can easily switch between the router & slider even though I've never used the slider, and don't think it's particularly effective on this saw. I'll keep it for a while before making a decision on tossing it.

TT

So an update. I have finally finished this saw table make over.

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After making my first router table I realised that I could include a router lift. So Mk2 went into production and I am very happy with it. The router lift is rustic but effective. My welding skills are crude but got me there.
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The table sits on the wings of the old slider and does not rely on support from the rails.
I've knocked up a handle for the lift that again demonstrates my elementary welding skills but is effective

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All in all I am very happy with the result. The router lift works and the router table now has a reliable fence. I have freed up some space in my work shop. I love the new fence and after years of fiddling around with the old fence and dodgy Triton fences, still do a double check ever time I set it. But it is nice knowing that when I set the fence it is true. I guess I will always continue to do the double check though. I will not pour any more money into the saw as I am really over capitalising on the unit. However the thought of a dado set is whispering to me. I have always made do with a router, but one never knows

TT