Thread: Cast Iron Extension Wing

The links don't work

I don't know why. I'll try it again.

TT

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

The links don't work

Only one l can see and it works for me, it goes here

https://www.timbecon.com.au/sawing/t...ce-upgrade-kit

There were attachment links as well, they show the pics now

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

Iv'e just upgraded the saw fence on my Toolex 10" table saw with this from Timbercom.
As a consequence I have had to take off the sliding panel thingy so that the new fence can fit. This is not a problem as I have never used it. I have placed an advert in the market place to buy or swap for one, but was wondering if there was another work around for this?

why do the fence rails have to extend so far to the left of the blade that they obstruct the sliding table?
my initial thought is that it would be simpler to shorten the rails

Originally Posted by ian

why do the fence rails have to extend so far to the left of the blade that they obstruct the sliding table?
my initial thought is that it would be simpler to shorten the rails

the blade tilts to the right so that when I am doing bevel cuts the piece gets jammed against the fence. Not safe. The old fence was inaccurate and difficult to set too. This fence is so much easier to set and increases my range on both sides of the saw. The $225.00 for the upgrade is a good compromise IMO.

So that is why I was looking for the second wing extension. It occurred to me that someone else may have done something similar and came up with a solution.

TT

Originally Posted by ian

why do the fence rails have to extend so far to the left of the blade that they obstruct the sliding table?
my initial thought is that it would be simpler to shorten the rails

The only times I use the rails on the left hand side when I'm working with large pieces on the attached router table on the rhs, but even then I could simply remove the fence.

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

the blade tilts to the right so that when I am doing bevel cuts the piece gets jammed against the fence. Not safe.

TT

That is why you are lucky to have a sliding table.

When cutting with a tilted blade you use a stop on a perpendicular fence on the slider and you get perfectly square cuts without any risk of jamming or kickback.

Also gives perfectly square cuts the rest of the time.

Originally Posted by Bohdan

That is why you are lucky to have a sliding table.

When cutting with a tilted blade you use a stop on a perpendicular fence on the slider and you get perfectly square cuts without any risk of jamming or kickback.

Also gives perfectly square cuts the rest of the time.

It's funny you say that Bohdan, I haven't frequented this particular forum often and came across this post on the whole sliding thing. I am not across it and have only ever used a fence. People are saying that it is a mental shift to make. To my mind I like the security of having the piece held firmly against the fence. But never say never. I'm going out to have another look and maybe consider Ian's suggestion re cutting the rails.

always learning

TT

I wouldn't cut the fence rails if I were you. You can't put it back together again if you cut it. I would make a wooden table to butt up again your table saw. My fence rail is exactly the same length and I have put a Wixey digital fence readout on it. The cuts are super accurate.

My fence rails are installed further to the right than yours. so slide your fence rails to the right and you will get the benefits of larger rip cuts.

Originally Posted by justonething

I wouldn't cut the fence rails if I were you. You can't put it back together again if you cut it. I would make a wooden table to butt up again your table saw. My fence rail is exactly the same length and I have put a Wixey digital fence readout on it. The cuts are super accurate.

My fence rails are installed further to the right than yours. so slide your fence rails to the right and you will get the benefits of larger rip cuts.

Yes i'll be doing something like that. The reason the rails are in their current position is that serindepidously, that is where the holes line up. To move it further to the right I'll have to tap new threads in the front bar and drill new holes in the back rail.
However I am now looking at including a router table in place of the slider. Funny how things work out. I bought the fence as an upgrade to the old fence which was a bugger to set up. The new one is so much smoother and clamps positively in a straight line. The room on the left is a bonus and now it has got me thinking about other options, like maybe the router table which could be interchanged with the slider as required.


TT

Why not leave the slider on and put the router wing on the other side?

When I did that on mine I did have to take the crank handle off the blade tilt wheel, but the wheel still works without the handle and I rarely use that feature anyway.

I guess it depends if you are right or left handed, I prefer standing on the left hand side of the blade with the fence to the RHS of the blade, and using my right hand to guide the wood or mitre slide in the LHS slot when sawing.

Originally Posted by Twisted Tenon

Iv'e just upgraded the saw fence on my Toolex 10" table saw with this from Timbercom.
As a consequence I have had to take off the sliding panel thingy so that the new fence can fit. This is not a problem as I have never used it. I have placed an advert in the market place to buy or swap for one, but was wondering if there was another work around for this?
TT

Hi TT

I have a 12" set up that is similar to yours. Purchased about 20 years ago from Carbatec, and modifed over the years. This includes a better fence, upgrading the motor to 3hp, and building a router table into an extension. The slider replaces one of the cast iron wings. I've come to the conclusion, fairly recently, that the other wing could be removed as well since I rarely need that much length (I do not work with sheet goods). That would make the whole saw more compact (which would be handy).

Anyway, here are a few photos ...





Regards from Perth

Derek

TT
If you're making a router table, one of these router table inserts could be quite useful: https://www.carbatec.com.au/routing-...ble-insert-kit