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Thread: Over critical?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Default Over critical?

    Giving my saw a much needed strip cleaning and have come across a few things.

    1. What do People use for lube? I've got some WD40 ptfe spray.

    2. The main table has a dip in the middle, as it seems many do. Looking at it under a straight edge it looks like a lot , but when checked with feeler gauges at its max .3mm low just before the throat plate. I am thinking of looking at getting it surface ground, am I being over critical.

    3. Dust collection is RUBBISH. Not sure what I'm going to do here yet.

    Cheers
    shane

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  3. #2
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    Default

    1 - bicycle chain lube. It's dry PFTE.

    2 - had a friend do this on one of theirs but it was a bit of a PITA to organise!

    3 - I used to clear the cabinet out regularly but now I barely bother. The inside has built up like a sand dune and then stopped... This must mean that it has created its own optimum collection shape.

    One of BobLs Bell Mouthed Hoods (6") will be added soon.

  4. #3
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    Aug 2013
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    Default

    Hi Shane ... you dont say what brand of table saw so I assume it is not a high end one.

    I never use WD40 as a lubricant ... I use it to clean the table (then wash off with soapy water, dry and then wax). I use lithium grease ... for the racks and pinions inside the cabinet ...for the past year I use the compressor the blow the dust of the gearing each time I change blades .. adds and extra minute of two but makes a hell of a difference to the smoothness.

    I use the 2hp DC and still have a "sand dune"in the cabinet ... when you find the solution I'm listening.

    Regards

    Rob

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tahlee View Post

    I use the 2hp DC and still have a "sand dune"in the cabinet ... when you find the solution I'm listening.

    Rob
    A 6" bell mouth exit from the cabinet and a 5HP dust collector

    A small sand dune shouldn't be much of a problem, but I suppose it does indicate sub-optimal collection / airflow.

  6. #5
    Join Date
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    Unless the 0.3 mm dip in the table is causing problems with you work, don't worry about it. Getting it levelled is likely to cost a few hundred dollars so using my wife's logic I have just saved you about 400 dollars. Now you can use that money to go and buy yourself a tool you actually "need".
    Tony
    You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde

  7. #6
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    Default

    Graphite powder makes a good lube on dusty tools like table saws. Your sag in the table is not a problem, it helps reduce friction. A hump is a different matter. Dead flat creates a lot of drag and requires constant waxing.

  8. #7
    Join Date
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    Default

    I would highly recommend https://www.carbatec.com.au/machiner...and-protection for the top.

    A low cost Courier was kind enough to leave my table saw out in the rain after purchasing it interstate. The top was a hell of a rusty mess. Sanded it all back, coated with Silverglide and haven't had an issue yet. It also keeps it nice and smooth. It seems a little costly but only required a little bit every now and then and should last for a few years at least - I know I am past 6 but I don't get much shed time (although the tablesaw is protected!).
    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

  9. #8
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    Lubrication: For the under-table gears, WD40 doesn't last long enough and never use anything with a silicone content. +1 for bike chain stuff. I use an old bottle of something I got from a bike shop called Rock'n'Roll which is a red fluid with a liquid wax like content. You drizzle it on then rub it off vigorously. It repels dirt on bike chains and the only time it's clogged up on me was after a good 3+years of use WITHOUT dust collection. Otherwise it's left everything moving silky smooth.


    The Dip: How WIDE across the table is it? I'm a bit OCD with these kinds of things but if it's just in the area of the throat plate, I wouldn't bother.

    Remember (and this is really important): Woodwork is not, and cannot be, precision engineering. Our material shifts and changes dimension of it's own accord every day due to outside influences like temperature and humidity. A piece of timber you cut an hour ago could have changed already. You have to make yourself let go of absolute measurable and repeatable perfection.

    (And that still is really hard for me to do)
    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.

  10. #9
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    I don't see the problem with using a silicon spray on the mechanical rise and fall.tilt mechanism and trunnions/winding shafts etc.
    CHRIS

  11. #10
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    There probably isn't a real problem using silicone under the table, but I prefer not to just as precautionary measure. You only find out about any stray spray at the very end of a project after the majority of the hard work has been done.
    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Canberra
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    Default

    Plumbing supply places also sell a large spray can of dry PFTE. I have no idea what it's used on, but at the local stores it's right at the counter.

    RedShirtGuy, I use an Incra fence and love the fact I can wind 0.05mm off at a time. It's fabulous for doing mitres and whatnot Now, if it only improved my output ....

  13. #12
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    Dec 2005
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    As said above 0.3mm is simply not worth worrying about, silcone sprays are good although in my experience they do not last long I use dry lube sure it catches dust just means you have to do a bit of cleaning now and then which is a good thing. Re dust extraction you may find you do not have enough air intake and my need to install a intake vent.

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