Thread: to cut acrylic with Freud 10 In. 30 Tooth Thin Kerf Glue Line Rip Saw Blade?

Not the best choice imo but with care it can be done and produce reasonable results. Better to use a recommended saw triple chip blade and the correct tooth geometry. 30 tooth is too coarse imho though. I use a CMT blade for aluminium and laminate. see

Working with Acrylics - Perspex Cutting Tips - AB Plastics Melbourne

What's the best way to cut acrylics and plastics? | Wood (woodmagazine.com)

CMT Industrial Non-Ferrous Metal and Laminated Panel Blade - 250mm - 80 Tooth | Carbatec
CMT Industrial Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Blade - 250mm - 80 Tooth | Carbatec
Austsaw - 254mm (10in) Aluminium Blade Triple Chip - 30mm Bore - 100 Teeth - 023_Austsaw, 001_Aluminium Blades - Product Detail - Sheffield Group (sterlingtools.com.au)

Brilliant reply!

Many thanks.

No and no. There are specific blades made for cutting plastics. In the absence of the correct blade plenty of teeth and negative rake would be the way to go. You would still need to polish the edge for an unmarked finish.

Originally Posted by aldav

No and no. There are specific blades made for cutting plastics. In the absence of the correct blade plenty of teeth and negative rake would be the way to go. You would still need to polish the edge for an unmarked finish.

My apology, I missed the 10mm thick note in the OP. Have to agree with Aldav's - No & no!

Originally Posted by aldav

No and no. There are specific blades made for cutting plastics. In the absence of the correct blade plenty of teeth and negative rake would be the way to go. You would still need to polish the edge for an unmarked finish.

Would sticking some masking tape on the cutting line also help preventing " fine chipping" as well? Just curious!

Figured out a super easy way to polish the edges so I don't have to be concerned with the rough cut.


Posted elsewhere on this site:

I got away with sanding 400 grit (up and back 10 times) then 800 grit (up and back 10 times) then polishing wheel up and back 5 to 10 times.
That flame technique was impossible for me.


Acrylic Edge Buffing to Clear

Used granat sandpaper

400 up and back 10 times
800 up and back 10 times

Polishing wheel up and down 5 times.
Wipe away residue.
If not perfectly clear polish again

At 30°c in the garage.


Using
MAKITA Cordless Random Orbit Disc Sander BBO180Z18V 5"(125mm)
Ozito Bench Grinder - OZBG150WA - I/N: 6290083
Josco 150mm Grinder Accessory Polishing Buff I/N: 6310315

That is basically what I did making a couple of handles for a frameless window sash.
I actually cut about 4 pieces so I could experiment on them and just used two. Sticking the acrylic to glass is another story.

Just polishing took hours.
Flaming took too long and didn't really work like demonstrated.
More burning ans warping.

To glue acrylic to acrylic the edge needs to be rough. And use a type of superglue(?)
Were you successful gluing to glass?

To attach the acrylic to glass I first cleaned the surfaces with acetone.
Next I used a high strength Araldite like this. Selleys 24ml Araldite Super Strength Epoxy Glue - Bunnings Australia
The important thing was to tape it into position and let the adhesive cure for a week.

Before going to the job, I tried sticking two pieces of acrylic together. I tried a silicone adhesive, and also araldite. After a few days the silicone still had movement, the araldite did not. Same after a week. While my test samples were small, and horizontal, the actual job was on a vertical plane and to glass. I was unable to stay on the site for a week, and the owners were actually going away for a few days. About two or three weeks later I contacted the owners and enquired how the handles were and they indicated all was good.

I used to do maintenance in a nursing home, where almost every window was frameless, double hung. We were forever trying to re-stick the acrylic handles back on the glass with mixed results. Of coarse trying to say do not use for a week would also have mixed results.