Thread: DEWALT DW745 table saw

Hi and welcome to the forum,

All universal motors as opposed to induction type motors are super loud so I imagine that table saw will be no different, think regular hand held circular saw. My mitre saw has a brake which slows down the blade/motor/noise quickly after use which cuts the duration of noise per cut, helps a tiny bit.

I'm in the same boat as you and try to work with the garage doors closed and be sensible about the times I use power tools.

hope you come up with a solution,

Sam

Hey Caligula, I have a slightly larger version of that table saw, the DWE7491.

My experience with it is generally positive. They are not quite though. Definitely loud enough for me to use ear protection. I have not measured its loudness but I reckon it sits around ~95db. I use it in my carport and haven't head neighbor complaints but I stop using it at around 5-6pm.

I have written a short blog about it if you are interested: http://diytrials.com/my-dewalt-job-site-saw-dwe7491

I have the DW745 and love it. I must add that I'm not a pro woodworker I'm very much a handy man. I don't have a lot of experience to other machines (ok none) to compare it to but I read all the articles on how loud these little saws are and was expecting the worse. I wear hearing and eye protection when using it but I don't think it is that loud certainly no more than my circular saw.I have found the saw to be very handy with garden box construction and now on my current fence build. It is very accurate for my use. I love the incremental adjustment on the fence,,, no tapping.

Chris

armanm, thank you very much for your great review ! English is not my first language but I understood everything !?

I guess your saw has a bit more powerful motor then the one I mentioned above. Correct ? Is it 2000 W comparing to Dewalt 1850 W ? If you have a mobile phone on Android platform you can download a free Sound Meter application at Play Store. It would be very interested to compare the real noise of your saw with my band saw.
I always use it in my garage with the closed door.

As far as I understood from your review you need to make very precise cuts for your business. I have a bit different requirements for my projects, so I do not need to fight for each millimeter. I wouldn't have a problem with the sawdust as I can connect a saw to the dust extractor. So the main problem still remains the noise. Yesterday I used Makita cordless circular saw to cut in half a few very long 20 mm MDF boards. So after that I would be able to hold and cut them on the band saw. I places 3 boards on the workbench so the total width of of the whole bunch was around 60 mm. The circular saw them all within a few seconds but the screaming noise was terrible and definitely much louder the 90 dB !? I had to make just 7-8 cuts like that . But can you imagine if I make that noise non stop for one or two hours ?!

The best solution is to see and listen to that saw in action. But I live in Chadstone and Tasmania is too far from here !?

Chris, that for your answer. Do you live Melbourne ? If you do , is any chance to listen to the noise ? it is just 22 kg, so you can bring to my place and we'll have beer after that !?

Sorry Mate I'm in Sydney,,

Hi all. I just opened mine today. First ever table saw. New to woodworking.

Did a successful thru cut.

Then I tried the non-thru cut. I found that I can't use the blade guard assembly as it jams when I try to recess the saw after a certain depth. Is that how it should be? The manual says the guard should be in place for all possible cuts.

Note in photos below this is as low as I can go with the blade guard assembly on. You can see how it jams at the back if I try to get lower. Also I presume anti-kickback is not used in this scenario?

dewalt1.jpgdewalt2.jpgdewalt3.jpgdewalt4.jpg


UPDATE: If I had read the manual thoroughly (page 4) I would have noticed, in bold type

The blade guard assembly and anti-kickback assembly can only be used when making thru-cuts that sever the wood. When making rabbets and other cuts that make non thru-cuts, the blade guard assembly and anti-kickback assembly must be removed....

Cheers
Chris

I can't help you with your question but I also wait for the answer from the experts.
What can you say about the noise level ? If you have any other machines in your workshop, how can you compare the noise of this saw to them ?
Thanks.

Hi Caligula.

Can't help much re the noise as I have no other noisy type machinery yet to compare it with. I bought a thicknesser and a router but they are still in their boxes. I have an old mitre saw and it is louder than that but this is much more powerful so I could expect it to be louder than that.

Originally Posted by Caligula

Hello everyone !

I am new here and I have a question please.

Here is me situation. I use 3/4 HP bandsaw to cut two sides laminated chipboard or MDF. The thickness of that wood is standard between 15 mm and 19 mm. First I make straight cuts and then rip them off to a few required sizes. The blade doesn't last for a long time and I have to change it quite often. Normally the dimensions of those rectangle pieces are around 110 mm X 300 mm. Sometimes I have to cut from a a few hundreds to a few thousands pieces.

Originally Posted by Caligula

... I also wait for the answer from the experts.
What can you say about the noise level ? If you have any other machines in your workshop, how can you compare the noise of this saw to them ?
Thanks.

Caligula

I have two different suggestions
1. what is killing your bandsaw blades is the laminate and glues in the MDF and chipboard. Have you tried fitting a carbide toothed blade to your bandsaw?

2. have you considered using a plunge saw and guide rail to cut the sheets.

the issue with all the small table saws, like the DeWalt 7491, is that their tables are too small to safely cut 8 x 4 sheets

Big thanks for your suggestions. I made a research and put my eyes on this plunge saw:

https://www.carbatec.com.au/power-to...us-li-fs-5-2ah

It is not cheap but I like that it is cordless . But I am not sure about the noise level. Also another concern about the batteries life. It comes with 2 X 18 V batteries. I am curious how many straight cuts can I make on one charge with both batteries ? I read somewhere on the Net that someone managed to make just 20 cuts before the batteries became flat. I couldn't find any other info about those batteries life.

this is a hard one as the answer depends on the space you have available, the level of accuracy you are seeking and how much you are prepared to pay for your board material.

for lots of 110 x 300mm rectangles I'd very seriously consider asking my board supplier to cut the board into strips that I could the cut to the required dimensions using a miter saw.
I think all the commonly available miter saws can easily cut 110 mm wide material, and most of the larger sliding miter saws can cut material 330 mm wide.
This option might be your best in terms of cost and space requirements.

If you want to do the entire operation "in-house" then a vertical panel saw

might be your best option


Festool is not the only maker of track saws, Makita and Dewalt (to name just two) also make this type of saw.

However, if cutting full sheets you need to be aware that the standard rail is far to short to cut a standard 2440 sheet length ways.


18V Battery saws?
there's lots of less expensive options than Festool, if plunge cutting and dust collection are not important considerations for you.
I can't help with battery life for Festool's 18V TS55 equivalent, and in part battery life depends on the blade used, battery capacity (in Amp hours), the material cut and the saw technology -- brushed or brushless motor / electronic brake or no brake, etc.
When the US magazine Fine Homebuilding tested 18V saws cutting 19mm ply, the results in linear feet of cut were:
Bosch CCS180 -- 147
DeWalt DCS391P1 -- 142
Hitachi C18DSLP4 -- 75
Makita Xss01 -- 71
Milwaukee M18 Fuel 2730-22 -- 159
Milwaukee M18 2630-22 -- 113

looked at another way, cutting an 2.44 x 1.22 sheet into 300 mm squares squares requires 52 feet of cutting -- which all these saws can do on a single charge.
cutting the same sheet into ten 110mm wide strips, requires 80 feet of cutting.
cutting the same sheet into 300 x 110 rectangles requires 108 feet of cutting.

docking the strips into 300 mm lengths without using some form of jig would be very cumbersome with these sorts of saw. This is where the Festool system might have an advantage, but the all up cost of the system -- MFT Table and accessories, saw, guide rails, clamps -- is very substantial, probably more than the cost of a vertical panel saw.

Today I found that Bunnings increased the price for Dewalt 1850W saw !? Normally they consistently add $1-2 to all their products and make it invisible for the customers. But now they added a hundred dollars to the old price and it cost a crazy $849. No one bought it for $749 before and I do not know what they expect now.

Originally Posted by Caligula

Today I found that Bunnings increased the price for Dewalt 1850W saw !? Normally they consistently add $1-2 to all their products and make it invisible for the customers. But now they added a hundred dollars to the old price and it cost a crazy $849. No one bought it for $749 before and I do not know what they expect now.

I'm gob smacked

I had to check, I thought you were looking at a DeWalt 7480, or similar which retails here for around CAD $520, not the DW745 which retails for CAD $370 and is in a similar price bracket to the Ryobi which Bunnings have for $479.

For what I understand you want to do, IMO the DW745 is unsuitable.


Can you share with us what you are currently doing with the laminate board and if you are using off-cuts or full sheets.
and what the end purpose of piece is, as this may influence any advice you receive.