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Thread: folding out feed tables
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1st January 2019, 06:27 AM #1Senior Member
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folding outfeed tables
Hi all
This site and its members have provided me plenty of help setting up my second hand Hafco sb-12.
I am now turning my attention to creating an outfeed table.
My workshop is quite compact so I am hoping to create one that hangs off the back of the table and can fold up when needed.
It will need to have an initial section that sits over the motor as well as allow room for the rear of the fence to lock down.
The problem is how to attach it.
Most videos I have seen either have no rear fence rail to worry about or the rail is angle iron. The hafco is a rear aluminium extrusion. I am not to keen to hang a table off that.
So I am thinking I will bolt some brackets to the cast iron table top using the existing holes for the rear rail. The other idea would be to attach some brackets to the bolts that connect the wings to the table top.
Before I get into gear though I am keen to see what others may have done.
Here are a few examples of what I am looking at for inspiration.
Thanks for your help.
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkLast edited by mote; 1st January 2019 at 10:16 AM. Reason: typo
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1st January 2019 06:27 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st January 2019, 11:54 AM #2
Hi Mote
I did something very similar on a previous table saw. The extension was given folding, swing out legs. This worked. Eventually I discovered that, unless one is working with full sheets of MDF or ply, a long extension table is unnecessary. I work 99% with hard wood. Consequently, I removed all but the shorter extension, as you have it (the part before the fold out), and triangulated this with a strut to the saw body. This short extension was all that I ever needed. It was only about 9" or so, but made a world of difference. I imagine that you do not want to hear this right now, after going through your build (which looks excellent), but try using it as is (folded down).
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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1st January 2019, 05:46 PM #3Senior Member
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Thanks Derek! Never fear, those images where just some ideas I was looking at. I haven’t started yet
When you mentioned triangulating to struts on the saw body. Do you mean simply screwing brackets the sides of the saw sheet metal?
Thanks for your help
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1st January 2019, 06:40 PM #4When you mentioned triangulating to struts on the saw body. Do you mean simply screwing brackets the sides of the saw sheet metal?
This picture was taken in front of the outfeed table. There are similar struts on the left. They hold up the rear fence rails, into which is built a router table ..
It is the same method, however only one strut is used at the front outfeed as a second would get in the way of the motor rotating when the blade is angled (this is a contractor saw). You would use two struts if the saw is inside the chassis.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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1st January 2019, 08:27 PM #5
I added a short extension table to my local men's shed table saw, but it was removed by others because it was in the way of having a designated (and required) 'helper' standing behind the blade and pulling material through.
I used some long strap hinges that screwed to the cabinet or rear rail allowing the table to be dropped down. I just needed to add sufficient packing between the hinge leaf and the table to make it coplanar with the machine table when it was propped in place by a hinged leg underneath to keep it erect.
With regard to Derek's suggestion on table width, I found the ideal extension table width most definitely depended on the length of timber most commonly being cut, not just whether it was sheet material. I was regularly ripping 2 metre lengths of boards at the time and it was a simple matter of weight distribution to figure out how much table was required behind the blade to stop the wood trying to lift off the table. I hate trying to add downward pressure to stop a piece lifting off the table while I am concentrating on feeding it through horizontally and firm against the fence.
In my experience 'helpers' behind the blade ALWAYS manage to twist a board while 'pulling' through and bugger a good clean cut. When I get back to the shed I plan on building one of these that I can position when I'm using the saw and act as a portable workstation for my own use at other times.
foldingBase.jpgFranklin
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1st January 2019, 09:08 PM #6Senior Member
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Thanks Derek and Fuzzie
Derek - I can now understand the triangular brace. Was there another piece of steel attaching the outfeed to the table itself, with the triangular piece acting as the brace?
Fuzzie - my fence rail is only aluminium, not sure how I would attach hinges to that? Thanks for the other plans! Looks nifty
I am thinking one option may be to drill into the edges of the cast iron wings. I would then attach supports that would run out the back of the saw from the “short” outfeed table. Is drilling into cast iron risking the integrity of the wings?
Cheers
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2nd January 2019, 12:08 AM #7
Mote, the extension with the router table is supported by steel rails along the sides. The triangulation ensures that it does not flex under weight.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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2nd January 2019, 10:41 AM #8
CAUTION - be aware of the potential hazard for machines with a small footprint to topple over when using braced in-feed & out-feed tables.
I have a simple out feed table that is mounted to the edge of the table saw top via two butt hinges that are mounted so the cast iron top and out feed top are co-planar. I also use simple triangular braces for light sheet & boards however I always use legs to support the outfeed top when ripping heavier items.
This is particularly important for lightweight machines such as table top planers, contractor saws etc. In fact I would totally avoid a triangular brace system on a contractor saw. OK for cabinet saws with lower centre of gravity, but the C of G is up way to high on contractor saws to do this safely for heavier boards. This is often not apparent as the stock on the infeed side is partially supported by the operator and it is only when the long overhang on the outfeed side tests the physics of gravity.
A quickie fix that works quite well is those folding aluminium "work platforms" with adjustable legs. They can be adjusted pretty close to height then a sheet of ply, with packing etc used to achieve / match the table height. Just remember to secure the ply to the work platform (couple of screws from underside) and the platform to the saw stand. Not difficult to do.Last edited by Mobyturns; 2nd January 2019 at 06:13 PM. Reason: typos
Mobyturns
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2nd January 2019, 05:56 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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The SawStop in your 2nd picture has a steel angle rail bolted to the cast iron top. The out feed table has been attached to this steel bracket which supports the entire side of the table next to the saw. It's been designed for that purpose. The weight of the cabinet saw is significant.
You say you have an aluminum rail. How is that attached to the saw? Perhaps you can swap out the aluminum for a steel angle?
I'm saving up for a system of rollers as a space saving idea.
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2nd January 2019, 09:18 PM #10Senior Member
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Thanks Mobyturns for the guidance
I just wanted to confirm, you mentioned ...
is this what you mean?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/gorilla-...tform_p0861589
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2nd January 2019, 09:19 PM #11Senior Member
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3rd January 2019, 03:20 PM #12Senior Member
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Here is quite a good example of where I think I may end up. In this case there is an "Arm" attached to a wing of the table top using bolts and the otherr "arm" looks like it is attached to the Sheetm metal side of the saw.
Table saw upgrade Ridgid 3650 outfeed table and dust collection - by spaids @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community
These arms support the intial non folding part of the out geed table. Just enough to sit over the motor. As this user suggests they are now looking at attaching the folding part of the table to this initial table.
Do others think it is wise to hang the table off the sheet metal like the post suggests?
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16th January 2019, 06:16 AM #13Senior Member
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Looks to me that the new steel rails in the post you linked and bolted to a flat section of steel plate, then bolted to the ends of the wings. If this is the case, looks ok, would depend on the gauge of each material really. Personally, id still provide drop down legs with adjustable feet to take the full weight
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17th January 2019, 01:12 PM #14Member
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I second having a completely separate table, ideally with locking castors, together with a perhaps 300-400mm outfeed extension which is enough for small work.
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