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  1. 26th August 2017, 10:40 PM #1
    Chris Parks
    Chris Parks is offline GOLD MEMBER
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    Default Fritz & Franz Jig

    There has been a bit of discussion in recent threads regarding sliding table saws and the Fritz & Franz jig. The jig was developed in Germany to overcome the problems of holding small pieces on a slider and coming away from the experience with all the fingers that were present when you started. It is the single best development in jigs for sliders that has happened and makes the saw very versatile and safe. They used to be mostly confined to panel sizing but now it is possible to buy a small one and use it to size solid timber for cabinets and other projects. A few videos here





    The first one I made was two bits of 18mm MDF and it lasted me for about three years, it wasn't very photogenic and I don't have pictures. Recently I got the bug to go one better and obtained some of the green facing seen on the German version from a friend in the US who had to buy a minimum quantity and had heaps left over and I copied his build using Incra Fences for the repeatability they offered as seen in these pictures

    IMG_1897.JPGIMG_1898.JPGIMG_1899.JPGIMG_1900.JPG


    The Incra track and flip stops I used INCRA Track System - 18"

    At the same time I did a Plain Jane Version as seen here

    IMG_1894.JPGIMG_1895.JPGIMG_1896.JPG

    I am not that impressed with the fancy one because it has a minimum distance it will close to and I don't think the green facing is necessary at all. In the four years I have been using a plain version with no facing I have never had anything get loose and cause an issue and if I was to put anything on the faces it would just be some strip emery paper or similar. The green facing is hard to handle and get to lay flat, it has retention ridges built into the leg that slips into a cut in the faces but in my case they don't work really well because the only method I had of cutting the slot was the table saw and the kerf was a bit wide. In the end to hold it on the faces I used a nail gun which seemed to serve the purpose. If anyone wants some of the green facing they can get it here... https://www.ostermann.eu/en/product/47618

    Some people add handles as can be seen in both videos but I haven't bothered and I can't see why they are needed.

    Ron Boult asked me about clamps tonight on the phone and I suggested Kreg clamps would be worth a look if using them on a slider though he had another use for them https://www.kregtool.com/store/c7/clamping-solutions/
    CHRIS
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  3. 27th August 2017, 12:34 AM #2
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    derekcohen
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    Thanks Chris. Here is a little more ...

    The F&F jig does not have to be perpendicular. There is no reason why one cannot make it also lock at an angle. That will hold irregular-shaped pieces. Here is a fancy-schmancy F&F jig cutting different parts ...














    The link to this jig (at a crazy, eye-watering price) is: https://shop.ruwi.de/en/product/clam...ystem-comfort/

    Incidentally, I plan to make my own and use 400 grit sandpaper as the nonslip.

    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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  4. 27th August 2017, 12:01 PM #3
    Chris Parks
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    Derek, I think someone got a quote of 650USD for that one some time ago. I have recently begun to think about building one that cuts at 45 degrees to short circuit the mucking around with angle cuts for mitres. Making it from aluminium or a stable plastic might be best but plywood could work as well. It needs to very precise to hold the angle and not need checking. For really specialised jigs that need precise placement maybe even drill the table for location pins for the none sliding block that sets the wood for cutting.
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  5. 29th August 2017, 12:07 PM #4
    Chris Parks
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    This is an interesting page on jigs for a slider

    SawDust : Woodworking Machinery Technical Information
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  6. 29th August 2017, 02:41 PM #5
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    derekcohen
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    Thanks Chris.

    While we are jigs for panel saws, I am not sure if there is any interest (other than myself as my Hammer K3 lends itself to this) in adding a router table. I am in the process of building one, and have taken some pics of work to date.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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  7. 29th August 2017, 05:02 PM #6
    Chris Parks
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    Some photos would definitely be of interest to me. I have seen it done on a Minimax where the sliding table was used to hold the timber and push it through like it is done on a shaper.
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  8. 29th August 2017, 08:51 PM #7
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    derekcohen
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    Hi Chris

    This is not on the same side of the machine as the slider. Some machines have provision for a shaper. Mine does not. The router table goes here ...



    I've used two layers of 20mm melamine glued and screwed together at the edges ...



    Attached at one side with bolts through holes in the table extension ..



    .. and the other with a fine rebate (there is a 2mm wide steel edge protruding on the side of the saw) and spacers (bolts) ..





    Support on the open side starts with the two bolts for the saw extension ...



    ... and 3mm thick aluminium plate ...



    This is attached using the extension base ...



    Here is the table extension ..



    The sides of the plate still need to be screwed to the router table top.

    This is roughly where the router plate will go ...



    The router table fence will attach to, and be controlled by, the table saw rip fence.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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  9. 31st August 2017, 12:52 PM #8
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    MrFixIt
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    Hi Derek

    I was going to suggest you place the router table where the table extension fits. This would provide the outfeed table "extension" and allow the "limited" use of the fence and some use of the slider for routing purposes (restricted in usable length though ) ) You "could" extend the slider in front of the router table by utilising the mitre slots in the slider as support arms?
    Kind Regards

    Peter
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  10. 31st August 2017, 04:47 PM #9
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    derekcohen
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    Hi Peter

    I chose not to do this because, firstly, I do not use a router table much, and a basic set up suffices (indeed, I am going to more trouble for the router table than is reasonable for the limited use it is likely to have). Secondly, I wanted to keep the footprint of the saw as small as possible. Where the router table goes is space that is free.

    I am more likely to rout moulding strips, and I cannot see how this could be done with a slider. The slider is too far away. I prefer hand tools for edges of panels.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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  11. 2nd September 2017, 01:39 PM #10
    Chris Parks
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    I found this that may be of some interest if doing a lot of angles, the audio is German....


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