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  1. #1
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    Default T-glide style fence for my old Carbatec table saw?

    Hey fellows. I'm puzzled and I think at an impasse. I bought a Carbatec 10" table saw 12 years ago (ModelMJ2325D now discontinued but listed with H&F as model ST-254)

    I'm sick of the fence so went seeking a fence upgrade to a T-glide style and actually got one from Carbatec but realise now it fits their newer style cabinet saw that is 100mm smaller in depth, so the tail end of the fence won't sit on the far rail, which is needed for the fence to travel on.

    Choices as I see it.

    1. stick with the current crappy and in my experience sometimes dangerous fence that is a PITA to keep parallel to the mitre slots. Suck it up! (Thankfully haven't opened the packaging so can send the purchase back)

    2. Work out how to lengthen the one I purchased. I'm no metal worker so not real confident of my skills there, and who knows the cost of buying more HDPE to make longer bits there too, that might be throwing more money away??)

    3. See if anyone here has a lead on a replacement T-glide style fence for a table saw that is 800mm across not the 690mm the current ones are. (I note even the Sawstop tables are 686mm across so that's a no go.

    Any pointers appreciated

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  3. #2
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    May 2011
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    Default

    The only saws that I know of that have an 800mm deep table are the MJ2325 and the MBS250/300. As far as I know the only aftermarket fence to fit these saws is the extended depth version of the Incra TS/LS, it's pretty exxy though. I'm surprised that you find the stock fence such a problem. I haven't used that fence for any length of time but I did find it accurate in its movement and locking down parallel to the blade for the short time that I did use it.

    Sorry I can't be of more help.

  4. #3
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    Does the fence lock on to the rear rail or does it just use it for support to slide on?
    Dallas

  5. #4
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    Yes, it locks on the rear fence, and won't easily do so remaining where it begins as clamped down. That, with the 'way too much play' in how the cross piece sits on the front rail is the issue. Might have to re-think it all and come up with some alternative solution. I wonder if there is some kind of HDPE type material I can shim the parts with. Might pursue that line.

    It's interesting that other TS's are all that 100mm smaller. Never realised that till I cam up against this.

  6. #5
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    My fence is a T Glide unit and it doesn't lock at the back and always locks in square just using the front clamp. It is similar in design to No.3 in this article. Not sure why you would have looseness at the front as they are adjustable for alignment and setting the lock tightness normally.
    Dallas

  7. #6
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    Yes treecycle, the replacement I purchased is like that but sadly not long enough for the table.

    The existing fence locks itself by clamping across the table. There is a locking bar running all the way through the fence. I'm going to try to work out some solution to the terrible amount of slop in how the t-bar part of the fence fits into the rail. Depending on whether you move the fence to the left or right the tail end of the fence ill be a half inch out of square one way or the other, which means I then have to align it afresh (that mucks up the setting of course) and carefully clamp it down.

    Never mind, will solve it some way or another.

  8. #7
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    So your saw has the Align-a-rip fence? If so, my recollection of using that fence (it was new at the time) is that it slides on small contact patches stuck(?) to the underside of the front T-rail slide. I can imagine that as these contacts wear over time some slop would be introduced to the mechanism, yours sounds like it's totally clapped out. For the short time that I used the fence I found it to reliably lock down straight and square. Replacing the glide patches would seem to be a logical place to start with improving the fences' performance.

    The only other thing I can think of is in relation the replacement fence you've bought. It isn't designed to lock on the rear rail? If so, you could fit a small wheel at the end of the fence to lift it slightly proud of the table and provide a smooth action. Not sure how well that would work if there was any saw dust waste on the table though, probably as good as the wheel running on the rear rail on the original fence.

    Had to have a laugh at the 'Amazon promo' page that Dallas linked to. They recommend these 5 fences that are sold on Amazon, the fence on the saw in the first pic. is Incra, but it isn't one of the recommended fences.

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