Thread: Hammer B3L slider issues

You need to get the slider running parallel to the blade. Push the slider all the way forward to expose the stationary part of the slider. That stationary part bolts to the main machine body with only a few bolts. Loosen the ones at the infeed end and bump the slider left/right to suit. I test my success or failure by making a cut and listening for the sound as the kerf passes the back of the blade. I don't want to hear any notable difference in noise.

My saw has black cover buttons covering up the bolts I need to loosen.
IMG_20190411_202716.jpg

Often there is a crude "fine adjust" mechanism on most saws. Mine has a bolt mounted sideways to the slider which can apply pressure and act as a sort of "home position" for the slider.
IMG_20190411_202706.jpg

Once you have it set properly, you will need to square up the crosscut fence again.

There is a toe out figure for the sliding table so the material being cut does not touch the trailing teeth and I think it is 4 thousandths of an inch or .4mm, something like that but don't quote me. PM me your email and I will send you the Hammer set up manual or a link to it. All sliders have a toe out figure from what I understand to prevent what you are experiencing. Here is a link to the quickest way to square up the cross cut fence after you do it



I tried this yesterday and got it in one adjustment, way quicker than the five cut method.